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Looking for SRS Front Left Sensor - Pajero IO 2001 - NZ

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  • Looking for SRS Front Left Sensor - Pajero IO 2001 - NZ

    Hello,

    I own a 2001 Pajero IO and based in Christchurch - NZ. Recently had a failed WOF on a faulty airbag sensor. Unfortunately Mitsubishi do not make this part new so I'm having to find a second hand part. Does anyone own one of these or point in me into the best direction in finding a good wreckers?

    Chur

    K
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  • #2
    If you google the part number MR517088 sensor, it is available new from several overseas suppliers, not cheap at around AUD 200!

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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    • #3
      Cheers OJ. Found one site in America selling it new for around that price!

      Comment


      • #4
        Kwee: Have yu tried to determine if you can get a sensor from another make or model to suit your car? I suggest that you look up the part number from an independent supplier (if they exist at all) and then cross reference that number to other makes. You may find that a Toyota /Nissan/Mazda etc may have a part which will fit the Io. A guide to likely suppliers of these parts may come from www.rockauto.com. I looked and they don't list the Pajero Io on their range, but if you look say at a Lancer, then find the part you want listed for that, the choices that Rockauto offer may have several companies supplying the Lancer model. You could then (hopefully) get your Mitsubishi part number and cross reference it on their product range. Of you are lucky, Mitsubishi may use the same product over a range of models and you may then be able to pick up an equivalent product from. Www.partsouq may also have a cross reference, and if you can get the equivalent part from another maker so much the better. Rockauto usually have a description (and certainly a photo) of the part, often with measurements as well so you can order the part with 95% confidence.

        Not much help I know, but if you know where to dig, you may come up with a winner here.

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        • #5
          New NZD $265 from
          https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mr517088

          Real question is how do you know it is the sensor that is faulty and not something else in the system?
          Have you swapped the sensors right to left to check that the problem goes with the sensor and not stay with the wiring loom?

          OJ.
          2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
          MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks erad and OJ for the responses. I've found a wrecked pajero IO at a local scrap yard. Going to check it out today and hopefully find a working sensor. When I took it to the garage their electrician figured out that its a faulty sensor. fingers crossed this part works. If not I'll go down the online route!

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            • #7
              Hi kwee,

              My question is how does the mechanic know that the sensor is the cause of the problem?
              What is the actual problem? Is it the red airbag light not going out after the engine has started?
              You could buy a new sensor and fit it only to still have the problem, so you are several hundred dollars out of pocket because the problem had gone misdiagnosed.
              Misdiagnosis is a very common problem that cost vehicle owners a lot of money by replacing or doing work that is not necessary!

              OJ.
              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

              Comment


              • #8
                There is nothing moving in these sensors. Is it possible that you have a crook connection to the sensor? take the wires off and clean them up - you may be lucky.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by erad View Post
                  There is nothing moving in these sensors. Is it possible that you have a crook connection to the sensor? take the wires off and clean them up - you may be lucky.
                  There is actually a moving part inside most impact sensors, I haven't disassembled a Mitsubishi sensor though, but from my reading on the subject, there is a pivoting cam mechanism that physically moves during impact and electrically activates the circuit that the SRS ECU uses to determine to trigger and airbag. The SRS ECU also looks inputs from the vehicle speed sensor and the G/Yaw Rate sensor and if all conditions from all sensors are met then the airbag is triggered.

                  There is a resistor inside the sensors and the airbag deployment squibs that serves as a test load, it is wired in parallel in each individual sensor, the SRS ECU, on engine start up and during vehicle operations constantly monitors the electrical continuity/prescribed resistance to ensure the system is ready incase of any sensor or squib activation. If the any system fails the test mode then the SRS ECU triggers a fault code and the red SRS light illuminates on the dash display. Just because the SRS light is illuminated does not mean that the airbags will not go off in and accident, but it also does not mean that they will!
                  The SRS light is warning light to say there is a problem with the system that needs checking.

                  Most common cause of SRS warning lights is high resistance in the plugs connections of the sensors and looms. Just because the diagnostic computer indicates there is a high or lower resistance in any of the independent sensor systems, does not mean the sensor is faulty. Sensor internal resistance can be measured easily, so as to determine if the sensor is faulty or not, and this is what I would be doing before replacing a sensor.

                  OJ.
                  2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                  MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by old Jack View Post
                    Hi kwee,

                    My question is how does the mechanic know that the sensor is the cause of the problem?
                    What is the actual problem? Is it the red airbag light not going out after the engine has started?
                    You could buy a new sensor and fit it only to still have the problem, so you are several hundred dollars out of pocket because the problem had gone misdiagnosed.
                    Misdiagnosis is a very common problem that cost vehicle owners a lot of money by replacing or doing work that is not necessary!

                    OJ.
                    True, the only thing he told me was that he got an electrician in to test the system. They concluded that its this specific sensor. The problem is that the SRS light is on from the moment I start the engine. It stays on throughout driving. What do you recommend? I take it to a Mitisi electrical specialist?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I checked out the wrecked pajero IO today and the part was taken on both sides! Looks like I'll keep hunting or buy new off that NZ website.
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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by kwee View Post

                        True, the only thing he told me was that he got an electrician in to test the system. They concluded that its this specific sensor. The problem is that the SRS light is on from the moment I start the engine. It stays on throughout driving. What do you recommend? I take it to a Mitisi electrical specialist?
                        Grap a multimeter and measure the resistance between the 2 electrical connections on the sensor. Then disconnect the righthand sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor. Both sensors should have a similar resistance.

                        Have the mechanic and electrician given you a guarantee that if you fork out $265 for a part then the problem will be fixed?

                        OJ.
                        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by old Jack View Post

                          Grap a multimeter and measure the resistance between the 2 electrical connections on the sensor. Then disconnect the righthand sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor. Both sensors should have a similar resistance.

                          Have the mechanic and electrician given you a guarantee that if you fork out $265 for a part then the problem will be fixed?

                          OJ.
                          Gottcha, I'll see if my mates have got one. He handed me the part and said that its faulty. You never really know unless you know what you're looking for/doing.

                          kwee

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