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DeeTee’s NVH Improvement Projects

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  • #46
    DeeTee Great job mate - loads of work going into it!!

    This was the best bang for buck noise reduction for me. I used the butyl self adhesive ( Stage 1) to line all the doors, I then used the foam ( Stage 2) in strategic places inside the door, but completely lined the door card with Stage 2 foam. With the additional thickness it made the door skins fit tight against the door and zero rattles. I also used little pieces to put under areas that had potential to rattle like the door opening mechanism. Mine made a huge difference to sound (music) quality as well.
    NT Pajero RX auto 5 door. Nudge bar, LED light bar, ProVent catch can, EGR resistor mod, dual battery, 265/65/18 Cooper ATT. Joying Android Head unit with TPMS, Dash Cam, and TorquePro via OBD2 . Alpine amps, infinity splits and sub, sound deadening in doors. Scanguage. GME UHF with 2.1db antenna. Clear view tow mirrors. Rubber floor/mud mats. Led interior lights and brake/tail & reverse lights. EVC Throttle Controller, Race Chip RS with Bluetooth control. AutoMate Pro.

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    • #47
      Mmmm 😋 sound deadening…. Are we talking amps and cabling as well???
      Excellent job DeeTee, extremely helpful and well worth the effort.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by willneill View Post
        The door handle trim seems like an evil trick.
        Turns out you don’t have to remove the door handle trim at all to get the panel off. The trim sits a bit loose in the door card and you just move it around if/when it catches on the handle as the card is being removed. You have to pull the door card out a bit (to clear the handle) and up a bit at the same time and when the angle is just right it comes off easily.

        I also learned that adding some loctite to the door card screws might seem like a “good idea at the time” but the loctite eats the ABS plastic. Oh well. I’m a big fan of the un-muck so it’s silicon ftw.

        10B1B138-38B4-40B0-8EBB-F8CCFA65696B.jpg

        I also stepped down another rabbit hole and removed the moisture barrier plastic and lined the inside with stage 1 when I replaced the door speakers. I’m really happy with the results - especially the reduced road noise but also the improved SQ - but I am now danger close to the edge of a full audio upgrade.
        Attached Files
        NX GLX, Auto-mate Pro, Nudge bar, Stedi Light Bar, Vortex Racks, Sandgrabbas, Nautia Pocket, GotyaCovered and Wheelskins Covers, Konis, Aux Lithium Battery & Solar Panel, Kaon Table, Custom Rear, Less NVH than Factory

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        • #49
          I often repair ABS with a mixture of ABS and acetone. I dissolve the ABS in acetone and make a slurry then depending on what I'm repairing I make it as thick or as runny as I need.
          So if screws don't grab any more I either put in a bit of semi thick slurry, let it dry and rescrew, or slightly runnier slurry and fill the hole. Once dry I redrill the hole. The latter can take longer due to the slurry taking longer to dry.

          I test the plastic is ABS first by rubbing some acetone on it to see if it dissolves, I get a bit of paper towel and rub it if the plastic is black. Otherwise I get a coloured bit of cloth that the white will show up on and rub it with acetone.

          I find it difficult to make it look nice though so I stick to the behind the scenes stuff.
          07 NS GLX 3.2 DiD Auto - Bushskinz bash plate + custom bash plate - Rocksliderz - factory bull bar - Pirelli scorpion ATRs - Ironman awning - Rhino Pioneer Luggage tray - Chip it race pipe - Home made breathers - 2" (Bilstein/Lovell) - No Limit Chip - Torque Pro for Android

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          • #50
            DeeTee It’s sounding like time to add a couple of amps!
            a decent 4 channel to make the most of those front splits.

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            • #51
              Today I learned you can repair ABS. i had no idea - thanks!

              A *couple* of amps? Sheesh. Maybe just one...
              NX GLX, Auto-mate Pro, Nudge bar, Stedi Light Bar, Vortex Racks, Sandgrabbas, Nautia Pocket, GotyaCovered and Wheelskins Covers, Konis, Aux Lithium Battery & Solar Panel, Kaon Table, Custom Rear, Less NVH than Factory

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              • #52
                What a great write up. I have done the full dynamat door treatment on all 4 doors, glovebox's, zip ties under the dash, etc etc, one that bugs me is the actual air vent deisgn of the air direction lever for lack of a better word. They seem to be made up of 3 pieces, the inner rattles with the outer and then they both rattle together with the air vent! on all four face air vents. And its still way rattlier than my 30 year old 2.8 diesel LN106 Hilux.

                I also faffed about one day trying to work out where most of the road noise was coming from with AT tyres and after loads of mixing and matching (I have HT,AT & MT available) and driving the same piece of road, I determined most of the noise comes from the front so that is where I am going to concentrate next. Not sure how though.
                1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
                1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
                2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

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                • #53
                  Those vents need to be pulled apart and re-assembled with cloth tape or foam tape to shut them up. They're not hard to remove.

                  Did you notice much difference between the AT and HT tyres?
                  Attached Files
                  NX GLX, Auto-mate Pro, Nudge bar, Stedi Light Bar, Vortex Racks, Sandgrabbas, Nautia Pocket, GotyaCovered and Wheelskins Covers, Konis, Aux Lithium Battery & Solar Panel, Kaon Table, Custom Rear, Less NVH than Factory

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                  • #54
                    Dee Tee is going for a full audio upgrade!

                    I had a look at the vents and its mechanisms when I had them out of the dashboard, honeslty I didnt have the guts to take it apart and rebuilt it. Theres so many small moving parts and its all made out of plastic. I figured it would be easier just to put some cloth tape under the slider, that would pretty much silence it.

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