Below Nav Bar Ad Module

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Unicorn intercooler upgrade for Most Pajeros

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    that intercooler has the fins on the inside as well for better heat exchange

    like this



    If you go for this I would look for a slimline fan at the back to pull air through as well. If you have the money lying around, it should be worthwhile upgrade, especially if you drive in hilly areas or towing.
    1993 3.0 V6 Pajero - SOLD
    2001 3.2 Di-D Pajero - SOLD
    2005 Touareg R5 2.5 TDi - SOLD
    2007 Pajero LWB 3.2 Di-D

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
      Boost pressure 20PSI? From new we never saw over 16PSI in our NS.

      When our turbo started over boosting because of carbon build up it would go into limp mode at 18PSI.

      New turbo fitted and we don't see over 16PSI.
      Your obviously getting an inaccurate boost reading of 3psi less.
      When I first purchased my Pajero I was hitting 21-22 psi and going into limp mode with just EGR delete.
      02 NM Pajero 3.2 DID Auto with Snorkel, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Kinugawa 15T Hybrid turbo with 56mm Billet compressor wheel and extended tips, Cat Delete, EGR Removal, ECU Piggyback Chip, Raw Nitro shockies, 22” Black Rhino wheels with Black Bear A/T tyres, EGT, boost and engine temp gauges, catch can, Synergy 4b Ronbox, K&N air filter, 3” dump pipe, 320x300 Front mount intercooler with 3” polished inlet piping, plus other mods

      99 Challenger 2.8td auto Sold

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Kingmarz View Post
        Your obviously getting an inaccurate boost reading of 3psi less.
        When I first purchased my Pajero I was hitting 21-22 psi and going into limp mode with just EGR delete.
        What would cause incorrect boost reading?

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by erad View Post
          I cannot understand how fitting an intercooler which is more efficient will REDUCE exhaust gas temperatures. The purpose of the intercooler is to lower the temperature of the incoming air to the engine, thereby increasing its density and hence more oxygen. You can then inject more fuel and thus get more power. As long as you are burning ALL the fuel in the cylinders (and hopefully extracting as much power as possible), that is as much as you can get out of a given number of cubic centimetres of cylinder capacity. An intercooler will allow you to get more power from lower boost pressure because the air will have relatively more oxygen than the OEM setup. but I can only see the potential for INCREASING exhaust gas temperatures because you are likely to have more fuel in the cylinder than can be burnt, or the temperatures in the cylinders are getting too high because there is so much fuel being burnt there.

          Having said this, I recognise that a better intercooler will improve performance, especially at lower revs so the driveability will certainly be enhanced. Probably a more effective way of improving performance would be to fit an exhaust system which had less resistance. This would certainly reduce EGTs.
          I'm not sure this line of argument is correct but confess I can't quite put together the logical argument to explain why it is so. I can say that it isn't just the increase in mass of air into the cylinders which is relevant but also that the effort the engine to compress the air is affected by the air temperature. The higher the temperature, the harder it is to compress. The other side of this same coin is that a higher mass of air is being compressed into the same volume at a lower temperature than it otherwise would be without the enhanced intercooler, which means lower exhaust gas temps.

          Comment


          • #20
            We have done some testing on engine air inlet temperatures on the Gen 4 Pajero and documented these test in this thread.
            https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=59603

            What we found was that a larger intercooler did lower inlet air temperatures significantly but so did improving the airflow through the factory intercooler, but not as much. We found that aftermarket underbody guards have an effect on the airflow to the intercooler and even more so the fitting of a bullbar, the split pan design being the worse for airflow. Aftermarket intercoolers were not only larger but were positioned better so they got more airflow. Airflow is critical to the performance of an intercooler as it is for all heat exchangers so just fitting a larger heat exchanger will result in only a small improvement unless you can improve the airflow.

            On a common rail diesel the air inlet temperature is measured at the air filter and at the throttle body, the engine ECU uses these 2 temperature readings along with readings from multiple other sensors to precisely control the fuel injection amount and timing. When conditions change then more or less fuel is injected to ensure the engine is operating at a safe and efficient level.

            Here is a schematic of the system;
            http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...132AB00ENG.pdf

            Most of the time there is enough residual capacity of the engine and air cooling systems to withstand restrictions to air and liquid flow but as soon as you operate under high load and/or high ambient temperatures any residual capacity is soon consumed and the results are reduced/poor performance and elevated operating temperatures.

            OJ.
            2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
            MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by old Jack View Post
              We have done some testing on engine air inlet temperatures on the Gen 4 Pajero and documented these test in this thread.
              https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=59603

              What we found was that a larger intercooler did lower inlet air temperatures significantly but so did improving the airflow through the factory intercooler, but not as much. We found that aftermarket underbody guards have an effect on the airflow to the intercooler and even more so the fitting of a bullbar, the split pan design being the worse for airflow. Aftermarket intercoolers were not only larger but were positioned better so they got more airflow. Airflow is critical to the performance of an intercooler as it is for all heat exchangers so just fitting a larger heat exchanger will result in only a small improvement unless you can improve the airflow.

              On a common rail diesel the air inlet temperature is measured at the air filter and at the throttle body, the engine ECU uses these 2 temperature readings along with readings from multiple other sensors to precisely control the fuel injection amount and timing. When conditions change then more or less fuel is injected to ensure the engine is operating at a safe and efficient level.

              Here is a schematic of the system;
              http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...132AB00ENG.pdf

              Most of the time there is enough residual capacity of the engine and air cooling systems to withstand restrictions to air and liquid flow but as soon as you operate under high load and/or high ambient temperatures any residual capacity is soon consumed and the results are reduced/poor performance and elevated operating temperatures.

              OJ.

              Thanks for that, so may be worth just saving for HPD or Johnnytig instead of installing this as i may at most get a couple degrees colder due to having bullbar blocking the air.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by swys42 View Post
                Thanks for that, so may be worth just saving for HPD or Johnnytig instead of installing this as i may at most get a couple degrees colder due to having bullbar blocking the air.
                If you intend fitting a split pan design bullbar and are wanting to decrease your air inlet temps especially when you are working the engine hard then the Jonny Tig or HPD intercooler is the way to go. You either have to want or really have the need for this upgrade. If you where towing really heavy and often then it certainly would be beneficial.

                If you have a genuine MMAL bullbar then for an hours work and $30 in material you can significantly improve the performance of the factory intercooler as we did to Pajero 12's NW.

                However lower inlet air temps will not protect the auto transmission!

                Better to fit either Lockup Mate or Auto Mate as this protects the transmission by reducing the ATF temperatures and also reduces fuel consumption, reduces engine coolant temperatures and reduces air inlet temperatures. I was going to do an engine ECU reprogramed but after fitting Auto Mate the difference in the drive experience on my Challenger is so much improved I cannot justify the $1600 for a engine remap.

                OJ.
                2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by old Jack View Post
                  We have done some testing on engine air inlet temperatures on the Gen 4 Pajero and documented these test in this thread.
                  https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=59603

                  What we found was that a larger intercooler did lower inlet air temperatures significantly but so did improving the airflow through the factory intercooler, but not as much. We found that aftermarket underbody guards have an effect on the airflow to the intercooler and even more so the fitting of a bullbar, the split pan design being the worse for airflow. Aftermarket intercoolers were not only larger but were positioned better so they got more airflow. Airflow is critical to the performance of an intercooler as it is for all heat exchangers so just fitting a larger heat exchanger will result in only a small improvement unless you can improve the airflow.

                  On a common rail diesel the air inlet temperature is measured at the air filter and at the throttle body, the engine ECU uses these 2 temperature readings along with readings from multiple other sensors to precisely control the fuel injection amount and timing. When conditions change then more or less fuel is injected to ensure the engine is operating at a safe and efficient level.

                  Here is a schematic of the system;
                  http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...132AB00ENG.pdf

                  Most of the time there is enough residual capacity of the engine and air cooling systems to withstand restrictions to air and liquid flow but as soon as you operate under high load and/or high ambient temperatures any residual capacity is soon consumed and the results are reduced/poor performance and elevated operating temperatures.

                  OJ.

                  Here are the modifications I did to my bash plate after reading OJ’s thread a year or two ago.
                  Really enjoyed the thread very informative and surprising.
                  It’s a worthy upgrade but only if you don’t do much off-roading because obviously it’s lost most of its integral strength which is perfect for me.
                  I would quite happily swap this for a standard one as I no longer need airflow through there after custom install.
                  OJ is right.
                  If you’re going to spend your hard earned dollars on upgrades do it right cos the only worthy intercooler upgrade on a under 20 Pajero is in front of the radiator.

                  So if there’s anyone in the central South Island that wants to swap bash plates give me a PM it’s been covered in rust kill, etch primer, matt black and clear coat.
                  Attached Files
                  02 NM Pajero 3.2 DID Auto with Snorkel, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Kinugawa 15T Hybrid turbo with 56mm Billet compressor wheel and extended tips, Cat Delete, EGR Removal, ECU Piggyback Chip, Raw Nitro shockies, 22” Black Rhino wheels with Black Bear A/T tyres, EGT, boost and engine temp gauges, catch can, Synergy 4b Ronbox, K&N air filter, 3” dump pipe, 320x300 Front mount intercooler with 3” polished inlet piping, plus other mods

                  99 Challenger 2.8td auto Sold

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Thanks for the ideas K, I have been looking at my bash plate to improve the airflow, as it is mainly used for towing the float. Also looking at making some side baffles.
                    Scooby, Scott, Scooter, Whatever.

                    Pajero 2013 NW VRX DID Auto. Basically Stock. 200k. Heavier rear springs to tow the GG’s. Automate also to tow the GG,s.

                    Pajero 2002 NM GLS V6 Auto. Basically stock. 355k.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I also had a large piece of tin that went halfway up the radiator on approximately a 45 degree angle and directed air into intercooler.
                      Transmission cooler upgrade from AliExpress for $50 will also help as the lines that go into the radiator run directly in front of intercooler.
                      I glued pipe insulation to the bottom tank of the radiator as there seems to be a slight overlap and it will help with heat transfer.
                      Here’s a photo of MK1 bash plate
                      Attached Files
                      02 NM Pajero 3.2 DID Auto with Snorkel, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Kinugawa 15T Hybrid turbo with 56mm Billet compressor wheel and extended tips, Cat Delete, EGR Removal, ECU Piggyback Chip, Raw Nitro shockies, 22” Black Rhino wheels with Black Bear A/T tyres, EGT, boost and engine temp gauges, catch can, Synergy 4b Ronbox, K&N air filter, 3” dump pipe, 320x300 Front mount intercooler with 3” polished inlet piping, plus other mods

                      99 Challenger 2.8td auto Sold

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I snipped my standard bash plate and welded a new grid to it to allow extra airflow.

                        I haven't got comparative data but it should surely help a bit.



                        Sent from my SM-A505F using Tapatalk
                        1993 3.0 V6 Pajero - SOLD
                        2001 3.2 Di-D Pajero - SOLD
                        2005 Touareg R5 2.5 TDi - SOLD
                        2007 Pajero LWB 3.2 Di-D

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 4ePikanini View Post
                          I snipped my standard bash plate and welded a new grid to it to allow extra airflow.

                          I haven't got comparative data but it should surely help a bit.



                          Sent from my SM-A505F using Tapatalk
                          Wow that’s a massive hole I can see deep into the core/soul of the intercooler.
                          That’s definitely going to make a difference towing up hills.

                          Try beating that for “25% more airflow” Unicorn intercoolers.
                          02 NM Pajero 3.2 DID Auto with Snorkel, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Kinugawa 15T Hybrid turbo with 56mm Billet compressor wheel and extended tips, Cat Delete, EGR Removal, ECU Piggyback Chip, Raw Nitro shockies, 22” Black Rhino wheels with Black Bear A/T tyres, EGT, boost and engine temp gauges, catch can, Synergy 4b Ronbox, K&N air filter, 3” dump pipe, 320x300 Front mount intercooler with 3” polished inlet piping, plus other mods

                          99 Challenger 2.8td auto Sold

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I was looking at putting a lip / spoiler on the bottom of the vent holes to try to guide more air in but I think a very big hole like that might work better!
                            Scooby, Scott, Scooter, Whatever.

                            Pajero 2013 NW VRX DID Auto. Basically Stock. 200k. Heavier rear springs to tow the GG’s. Automate also to tow the GG,s.

                            Pajero 2002 NM GLS V6 Auto. Basically stock. 355k.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Certainly airflow has been improved by 4ePikanini's modification to the front underbody guard.

                              However I would not recommend doing this mod if you venture off road because you are exposing the intercooler to sand and mud that will block it up and increasing the possibility of spiking the intercooler with a stick.

                              OJ.
                              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by old Jack View Post

                                However lower inlet air temps will not protect the auto transmission!

                                Better to fit either Lockup Mate or Auto Mate as this protects the transmission by reducing the ATF temperatures and also reduces fuel consumption, reduces engine coolant temperatures and reduces air inlet temperatures.

                                OJ.
                                This is where i put my coins, Automate

                                Easy to install, turn on/off is just press button on pillar in front of your hand, lock out 5th gear easy, press same button twice whenever you like to suit conditions, stops hunting between gears, when towing in wrong hill types, or if you had big loads, holds 4th gear better/ little bit longer suits my towing straight out of box i changed nothing but you can change.
                                Switches itself off low speed, completely seamless
                                Works in the background basically & i can hardly notice it, doesn't become active till tranny has warmed up so tranny warms up due to slip bit quicker & stays smooth.
                                Still sports mode in traffic highway etc isn't a bad option as it doesn't have eyes to see the conditions

                                Controls Tranny temps, lower fuel use, due more efficent drive train for loaded work & less heat in cooling package transfering between tranny & engine when under load.

                                Thanks to all on the forum for the detailed info & testing/ feedback so i could make an informed decision
                                Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16

                                Comment

                                Matched content

                                Collapse
                                Working...
                                X