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Battery Tie down methods in 3rd row seat well

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  • Battery Tie down methods in 3rd row seat well

    G'Day Fellow Mitsubishians,
    I have been searching but being a Klutz I have had difficulty locating the information I need on the forum.
    I have an Optima D34 Yellowtop in an ARB tray in the engine compartment which suited my needs in that I drove most days which would keep the battery charged enough to run my Waeco fridge. My Driving/holiday style has changed somewhat now and I find myself staying more frequently in the one spot for more that 24 hours. The Optima doesn't really have enough capacity for this so I am thinking Of replacing it with something like a Fullriver 105 A/Hr AGM or larger and shifting the auxiliary battery position to the rear seat well. Question is, What is the best way to tie it down? Battery tray and tie-down bolts, bolted throught the bottom of rear seat well? Also where to bring the cables into the well?
    Regards,
    Glennie
    NT 30th Anniversary D.I.D. Delivered 21st October 2011. Factory steel bull-bar, rear diff lock, Privacy glass on front windows, factory tow bar, Tekosha Prodigy electric brake controller, Safari snorkel and BFG A/T2s. 120AH Dual battery in rear well with Redarc BCDC 1220 battery controller, rear fridge sockets and Anderson plug. Provent Catch can, SPV EGR module, 58 litre LRA Auxiliary fuel tank, fitted at 40K. TJM Suspension Lift Towing Track Trailer Topaz 4 metre Cvan.

  • #2
    i would be going through the floor with some nice stainless bolts long enough to fit the normal brace over the battery like in the engine compartment. this way you know nothing will break and just remember the fuel tank is very close to where your wanting to place the battery so this is the safer way to fix the battery i feel. wherever you decide to run the leads just make sure you fit fuseable links at each end of the positive lead, just another safetly feature.
    NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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    • #3
      Faced with a similar predicament, rather than put the long bolts through the floor I have planned on a loop welded to a plate with the plate bolted through the floor and then plated on the outside as well to spread the load. I've prepared plates that are 75x75x3mm - should be plenty strong enough. The loop on the top allows the normal hooked rod to be used to retain the frame that sits over the top of the battery. Doesn't have to be done up all that tight - don't want to damage the battery.
      Chris

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      • #4
        Originally posted by dolphin View Post
        i would be going through the floor with some nice stainless bolts long enough to fit the normal brace over the battery like in the engine compartment. this way you know nothing will break and just remember the fuel tank is very close to where your wanting to place the battery so this is the safer way to fix the battery i feel. wherever you decide to run the leads just make sure you fit fuseable links at each end of the positive lead, just another safetly feature.
        Thanks Dolphin, good point about the fuseable liinks.
        NT 30th Anniversary D.I.D. Delivered 21st October 2011. Factory steel bull-bar, rear diff lock, Privacy glass on front windows, factory tow bar, Tekosha Prodigy electric brake controller, Safari snorkel and BFG A/T2s. 120AH Dual battery in rear well with Redarc BCDC 1220 battery controller, rear fridge sockets and Anderson plug. Provent Catch can, SPV EGR module, 58 litre LRA Auxiliary fuel tank, fitted at 40K. TJM Suspension Lift Towing Track Trailer Topaz 4 metre Cvan.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by NFT5 View Post
          Faced with a similar predicament, rather than put the long bolts through the floor I have planned on a loop welded to a plate with the plate bolted through the floor and then plated on the outside as well to spread the load. I've prepared plates that are 75x75x3mm - should be plenty strong enough. The loop on the top allows the normal hooked rod to be used to retain the frame that sits over the top of the battery. Doesn't have to be done up all that tight - don't want to damage the battery.
          Thanks too, NFT5,
          I think your idea of spreading the load with plates both top and bottom is great. I will utilize your suggestion. Another thought, if I fitted an Auxiliary tank at some time in the future, would these bolts cause any clearance problems with the top of the tank? Assuming 51 litre LRA tank on NT with rear air-conditioning.
          NT 30th Anniversary D.I.D. Delivered 21st October 2011. Factory steel bull-bar, rear diff lock, Privacy glass on front windows, factory tow bar, Tekosha Prodigy electric brake controller, Safari snorkel and BFG A/T2s. 120AH Dual battery in rear well with Redarc BCDC 1220 battery controller, rear fridge sockets and Anderson plug. Provent Catch can, SPV EGR module, 58 litre LRA Auxiliary fuel tank, fitted at 40K. TJM Suspension Lift Towing Track Trailer Topaz 4 metre Cvan.

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