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NW Roof 110w Solar Panel

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  • NW Roof 110w Solar Panel

    I picked up a BCF XTM branded 110w solar panel on sale a few months ago with some vouchers I had (https://www.bcf.com.au/p/xtm-110w-fi...el/563065.html). I'd planned to mount it as a wind deflector in front of my Gordigear roof top tent and/or adjustable bracket so it can lay flush between my rhino vortex bars.

    I've got a couple of options for wiring;
    1) Run wiring down the passenger side along the windscreen, I think this will look quite ugly as the NW doesn't have the windscreen rubber surround which lets you tuck a cable inside it, like the NM/NP/NS/NT models. I'm not sure what size wiring I can get away with, probably need 3-4m.

    2) Run the cable along my Rhino track/awning, down the rear door frame, underneath the bumper & up into the floor pan into the rear qtr where I have my fuses/wiring panel & a 6B&S run back to the aux battery. I could mount the solar control in the rear qtr panel, though at that point the solar wiring would be about 4-5m & I'm not sure the voltage drop from the panel will be too good. I'm also not sure how suitable the 4m 6AWG run from the Victron back to the Aux battery would be.

    Problem #2:
    The Victron MPPT 75/15 I have is only IP43/I22 rated, so underbonnet use is only possible if its in a suitable enclosure, however then heat is even more of an issue. I could mount it at the front of the car behind the grill to get some airflow.
    Second option might be to mount it in the passenger footwell, though I'm not sure I can fit another 2x twin core cables through the main wiring grommet. I've already got a 1x 6awg, 1x, coax, 1x7 core trailer, 1x smaller twin, plus the secondary adjacent blank grommet has a 4awg.

    Anyone with some bright ideas?

    Cheers
    2013 NW GLX. 268,000km | ARB Deluxe Bar | Boo's bashplates | 4x4 Tough (Aldi) Winch | Underbonnet dual battery & db140i isolator | D697 265/70r17 | Rhino tracks & vortex bars | DIY rear drawers | Waeco CF40 | 60L water bladder | 2.5m awning | Vlad TC mod | UH8060.
    --SOLD--1995 NJ GLS 3.5L Manual. 348,000km 2" Toughdog/EFS suspension, 265/75r16 Toyo Open Country A/T II

  • #2
    Not a solution but may be some help.

    If you end up running wiring to the rear, Denmonkey has a better way of getting the wiring into the rear of the vehicle through the rear door umbilical.
    At about 11.20 of this vid. I think this would be better than going all the way down and under the bumper and might save a metre or two.

    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&s...4yoWTzimDB0vsR
    2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent catch can, Boos bash plates, Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, fridge slide, kings springs, Dunlop ATG3s, more to come...

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    • #3
      I have run my cables to through the rear door to a MPPT and then to batteries under the floor. I keep everything well away from the heat of anything under the bonnet.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Paul NT View Post
        I have run my cables to through the rear door to a MPPT and then to batteries under the floor. I keep everything well away from the heat of anything under the bonnet.



        I,ve got 120watt solar on the roof. Lithium in rear tub along with Victron regulator. Wires run down rear door channel and in through existing entry points for light wires. .
        Dicko FNQ


        2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
        Having lots of friends on facebook is the same as having lots of money in monopoly...both meaningless.

        .

        Telegraph X camper

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Dicko1 View Post
          I,ve got 120watt solar on the roof. Lithium in rear tub along with Victron regulator. Wires run down rear door channel and in through existing entry points for light wires. .
          Dicko do you have a photo of what you mean for light wires? Do you mean feeding the wire behind the tail lights & in through the grommet?

          Two Emms, thanks for the video mate, that might be the best solution.
          Solar -> 4m cable via the rear -> Victron MPPT in rear qtr -> 4m 6B&S to underbonnet aux batt. Hopefully having the Victron so far from the battery doesn't cause issues with charging?
          2013 NW GLX. 268,000km | ARB Deluxe Bar | Boo's bashplates | 4x4 Tough (Aldi) Winch | Underbonnet dual battery & db140i isolator | D697 265/70r17 | Rhino tracks & vortex bars | DIY rear drawers | Waeco CF40 | 60L water bladder | 2.5m awning | Vlad TC mod | UH8060.
          --SOLD--1995 NJ GLS 3.5L Manual. 348,000km 2" Toughdog/EFS suspension, 265/75r16 Toyo Open Country A/T II

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          • #6
            aa

            Originally posted by Turorit View Post
            Dicko do you have a photo of what you mean for light wires? Do you mean feeding the wire behind the tail lights & in through the grommet? YES Just make sure the wires from the Victron to the battery are as thick as you can sensibly put in. Wire from roof panel to Victron should also be as thick as possible to get through grommet.

            Two Emms, thanks for the video mate, that might be the best solution.
            Solar -> 4m cable via the rear -> Victron MPPT in rear qtr -> 4m 6B&S to underbonnet aux batt. Hopefully having the Victron so far from the battery doesn't cause issues with charging?
            ..
            Dicko FNQ


            2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
            Having lots of friends on facebook is the same as having lots of money in monopoly...both meaningless.

            .

            Telegraph X camper

            Comment


            • #7
              Do you have a snorkel? Can run the wires into it then out into the engine bay through the air filter housing.
              SOLD 2004 NP 3.2 auto
              NOW 2014 Ranger XLT auto

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Nab View Post
                Do you have a snorkel? Can run the wires into it then out into the engine bay through the air filter housing.
                No snorkel yet, a TJM Airtec is on the cards eventually
                2013 NW GLX. 268,000km | ARB Deluxe Bar | Boo's bashplates | 4x4 Tough (Aldi) Winch | Underbonnet dual battery & db140i isolator | D697 265/70r17 | Rhino tracks & vortex bars | DIY rear drawers | Waeco CF40 | 60L water bladder | 2.5m awning | Vlad TC mod | UH8060.
                --SOLD--1995 NJ GLS 3.5L Manual. 348,000km 2" Toughdog/EFS suspension, 265/75r16 Toyo Open Country A/T II

                Comment


                • #9
                  After using a mate's pajero as a guinea pig, I decided on a solution I'm more or less happy with.
                  The cable ended up being about 4m long + some extra in case I remount the panel on a hardshell roof top tent.
                  The inverter is connected to my distro/fuse block behind the quarter panel (no photos, it's a shambles)
                  It was a cloudy day but seemed to be working!
                  Attached Files
                  2013 NW GLX. 268,000km | ARB Deluxe Bar | Boo's bashplates | 4x4 Tough (Aldi) Winch | Underbonnet dual battery & db140i isolator | D697 265/70r17 | Rhino tracks & vortex bars | DIY rear drawers | Waeco CF40 | 60L water bladder | 2.5m awning | Vlad TC mod | UH8060.
                  --SOLD--1995 NJ GLS 3.5L Manual. 348,000km 2" Toughdog/EFS suspension, 265/75r16 Toyo Open Country A/T II

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Turorit View Post
                    Dicko do you have a photo of what you mean for light wires? Do you mean feeding the wire behind the tail lights & in through the grommet?

                    Two Emms, thanks for the video mate, that might be the best solution.
                    Solar -> 4m cable via the rear -> Victron MPPT in rear qtr -> 4m 6B&S to underbonnet aux batt. Hopefully having the Victron so far from the battery doesn't cause issues with charging?
                    Don't forget you can get the Victron smart battery sense and monitor the battery temp and voltage via bluetooth and have the regulator adjust charge correctly, note must be the long range version to work from the engine bay to the back, works for me.

                    Ray
                    NT Pajero (white), Smartbar, Warn winch, LightForce Lights, Safari snorkel, Provent 200, Lovells MD with Aussie Ryder shocks, Optima main and aux battery and 300w solar on roof with Victron 100/20 reg, Tvan Sport campertrailer.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Nice job

                      And it works, that's important
                      2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent catch can, Boos bash plates, Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, fridge slide, kings springs, Dunlop ATG3s, more to come...

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