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  • #61
    I'm coming late to this as I've been away but I am confused as to the problem. If the centre diff light is flashing, doesn't that mean the BCM/ECU(?) thinks the centre diff is trying to be activated but won't let it do so? So if the 4HL or 4LL isn't selected, why would the light flash? So isn't it indicative of a problem not related to the tyres or suspension? If it were the diameter of the tyres (and hence circumference) why wouldn't it happen every time you go around a corner when each of the wheels rotates at a different rate?

    Notwithstanding the above, lowering the tyre pressure will change the rolling circumference slightly, with the amount dependent on the block to gap ratio of the tread, the tread depth and nominal diameter of the tyre. Think of it in reverse. Imagine a flat piece of tyre tread which you bend into a curve. The blocks stay the same but the gaps between the blocks increases, changing the overall length of the piece of tread at the outside of the curve. The opposite happens when the tyre pressure is reduced; the increase in flattened tread length reduces its length a bit. How much 'a bit' is and the degree to which it is significant, I'm not sure.

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    • #62
      Thanks for joining in! It is still a mystery. Here are the facts. When i drive in 2H towing my van which weighs about 2000kg and tbm 250kg the central diff light starts flashing and all green wheels disappear about 30km into the trip (occasionally it has gone for over 100km but rarely. I now tow in 4H as you should and the light so far has not come on and ive gone well over 60km the last two trips. However when i do not tow and i am in 2H the flashing light starts much later often well over 100km. I have been driving in 4H for a week and i drove nearly 200km and no light. I am doibg a trip this week about 400km straight not towing so this will be a good test. This started straight after i got new front and rear 200kg lift suspension. The rear is heavy duty plus airbags because we have about 100kg or more in the back due to Drifta drawers, second battery, fridge etc. I have towed a campervtrailer prior to this with no problem and even towed the new van with about 1900kg all up. The light started flashing 20km into the trip after i picked up the car with the new suspension (not towing and in 2H). Doubt this is relevant but other work done was snorkel, bullbar, breathers and secondary oil filter. Concluded the issue caused by the suspension change. There is no doubt the height in the back is too much which could mean a rake issue (i now sound like i know what im talking about!). ARB have agreed height too much and are changing the rear suspension to reduce the height/rake. Mitsubishi disgnosis was the wheel speed sensor was unhappy but couldnt say about what! All of my tyres are thr same brand - Hankooks ATs. My tyre guy says there is slightly more wear on the back tryes but they are all roadworthy. I tend to set the pressure to whatever the inside door plate says based on whether i am towing or not. My next step is to do this long drive in 2H to start with and if the light comes on Ill put it into 4H on the trip back. There have been suggestions to rotate the tyres and other ideas which i will try out. I have also got the car booked into a different Mitsubishu service centre because the first one fobbed me off really. It seems unlikely it is an issue with the sensor but i will get the service guys to conside vacuum seals and other wiring type suggestions. Ill post again later this week after my trip. Im hoping by some miracle that by driving around in 4H for a while it will be ok. I doubt changing the suspension will make a difference. The car has no trouble moving from 2H to 4H and ARB said they had tested the other gears and all ok. Thanks to all who have contributed.

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      • #63
        Hi

        I think the answer is in either the mechanism that the engages the centre lock as suggested much earlier in this thread or water/mud interfering with the indicator sensor. I say the later as my brother’s 2004 Triton and my 2014 both had the traction system display go flashing after a day running in mud and water. Mine “fixed” itself and he had to replace his sensor.

        Cheers
        2014 PC Challenger, manual, factory tow-bar, factory front diff protector, TJM inter-cooler plate, Bushskinz manual transmission protection plate, ProRack S16 roof racks, front elocker, Drummond Motor Sport front struts, custom 16mm King rear springs with Bilstein Dampeners, Buzz Rack Runner 3 bike platform, Eclipse Nav head unit, GME TX3800BW UHF, 16x8 CSA Raptor rims, 265/75R16 Maxxis MT-762, orToyo AT/2 265/70R16 Triton rims, BFGoodrich 235/85/R16 Triton rims, or Factory tyres and rims.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by Lisadot View Post
          Doubt this is relevant but other work done was... breathers... ​​​​
          Probably not relevant, but which breathers? Diff only, or did they mess with transmission & transfer case?

          Probably nothing, but there is a breather off the rear of the transfer case actuator. I wonder if this breather is no longer venting properly, and somehow causing the actuator to "drift" over time? A long shot...
          NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

          Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

          Scorpro Explorer Box

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          • #65
            supposed to be diff only. will get them to check. thats why i mentioned it.

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            • #66
              Update
              I left home yesterday in 2H having driven in 4H over the last week or so but short trips. Within 20km the central diff light started flashing. Changing to 4H mid stream didnt change the light so i pulled over turned off and reset. I then drove in 4H for 395km and no light. Tyre pressures as per prior post - Mitsubishi recommended pressures for non towing. Airbags in back at 5psi. Weight in back as per before less fridge and contents of fridge. Drawers had a bit of luggage. Given we know the sensor code is telling us it is the front wheel speed sensor - C1452 - front propeller speed shaft sensor SURELY we have enough clues to determine the problem???

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              • #67
                Originally posted by Lisadot View Post
                Update
                I left home yesterday in 2H having driven in 4H over the last week or so but short trips. Within 20km the central diff light started flashing. Changing to 4H mid stream didnt change the light so i pulled over turned off and reset. I then drove in 4H for 395km and no light. Tyre pressures as per prior post - Mitsubishi recommended pressures for non towing. Airbags in back at 5psi. Weight in back as per before less fridge and contents of fridge. Drawers had a bit of luggage. Given we know the sensor code is telling us it is the front wheel speed sensor - C1452 - front propeller speed shaft sensor SURELY we have enough clues to determine the problem???
                I think we do.

                The code may simply be telling you were it is getting the information the ECU is unhappy about, rather than a fault with the sensor. If the sensor was faulty, it would be the same in 2H & 4H.

                Simple things first - tyre rotation.
                Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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                • #68
                  Simple check:
                  Get a tape measure and measure the diameter of the tyres. Yes - they should be the same diameter if they are all the same brand and size, but we had a brand new Sigma which pulled violently to one side. I took it back and they swapped the front tyres left to right. It then pulled violently the other way. They put a caliper on the tyre casing and one was 10 mm wider than the other. They were all nominally the same size though. For what if is worth, I had the flashing CD light problem, but only in 4H. In 2H, no problems, hence I drove most of the 18000 km trip round the block with my caravan in 2H. Problem resolved itself when I finally got 4 tyres all the same (Hankook AT's, even though 2 of them had nearly 45000 km on by the time the 2 new ones came along. Now I am trying to even out the wear in the tyres by leaving the rears on and driving in 2H all the time (except on wet roads or under more severe conditions).

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                  • #69
                    UPDATE
                    Life is cruel! i had suspension changed to not so heavy duty and lift dropped about 40mm - a lot. ARB agreed was way too high. id hoped the rake was causing the issue and that would mean no more flashing light coz the rake has diminished. after the new suspension i drove about 300km in 2H today no light! then i drove 20km in 2H and the bastard came on. i will now take on board all of the suggestions and i am taking it to Mitsubishi next Tuesday for another discussion. im wondering if its a warranty issue. not done 100,000 km yet and under 5 years. im so disappointed the suspension didnt fix it - even though i didnt think it would!!

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by erad View Post
                      Simple check:
                      Get a tape measure and measure the diameter of the tyres. Yes - they should be the same diameter if they are all the same brand and size, .
                      What we do to measure inter axle ratios at work is to chalk mark the tyres, count revolutions & see what happens with chalk marks.

                      Should work in 2wd for a 4WD vehicle.

                      Although what Mitsubishi outlet have done is sadly very common for many mechanics, i call it "the path of least resistance", fobbed you off.

                      Unfortunately, not many like a challenge, especially seen as though in their worlds revolve around time = money.

                      You can drive 100's of K's no problem makes it harder as its basically intermittent, sometimes things need to be tried but who pays

                      Dilemma,

                      Hopefully their diagnostics can see fault codes, might be time to replace something.

                      Last edited by Jasonmc73; 1 week ago.
                      Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16

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                      • #71
                        we have a faukt code but maybe they will find more!

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                        • #72
                          Lisadot - I think you may have a typo? 2H for both drives?
                          Last edited by spot01; 1 week ago. Reason: Clarification
                          Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by spot01 View Post
                            I think you may have a typo? 2H for both drives?
                            I mean disconnect the front from the rear wheels, so you are measuring only the free rolling circumferance of each donut & diffs will take car of the pairs
                            In my line of work we are actually looking for a positive axle lead less than 5%, but it's more complicated as fronts & rears are different rolling sizes & there is an inter axle ratio also to consider
                            Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Lisadot View Post
                              we have a faukt code but maybe they will find more!

                              That's good news, letting things develop can sometimes be benificial depending what it is of course
                              Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16

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                              • #75
                                The tyres need rotating anyway - why not try this first?

                                Be aware the dealer may try to charge you if it is found not to be a warranty item.
                                Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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