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Rear Thunk - What bolts to tighten?

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  • Rear Thunk - What bolts to tighten?

    Hi Guys

    Looking for advice on what specific bolts to tighten up on the rear of the Paj to solve a thunk? Have been reading up some posts and the suggestions are the rear wheel bearings and some bolts on the diff but I don't know what bolts? I have the Paj in the shed this weekend to fit the new Kaon Bash Plates and while I am under there and the tools are out I might as well torque up any bolts that may need it. Would appreciate any advice here otherwise it will be the Haynes Manual and a torque wrench for every exposed bolt...

    When accelerating onto the highway I have started to notice a thunk in the driveline from 4th to 5th, and it seems to be less so in 3rd to 4th gear changes but not as noticeable as in 4-5th.

    Also would the rear bearings leak water into the diff if they were slightly loose? Interestingly the workshop recently said they needed to change the rear diff oil as it looked like it had water contamination. I had changed the diff oil myself just before last summer ( no evidence of water then...?) and also installed diff breathers front and rear as we launch the boat deep almost every weekend in the summer. Since the oil change we have done a few deep river crossings in the Vic High country and the diff oil still seems fine but moving through the water is different to parking on the ramp loading the boat..


    Cheers
    NT Pajero RX auto 5 door. Nudge bar, LED light bar, ProVent catch can, EGR resistor mod, dual battery, 265/65/18 Cooper ATT. Joying Android Head unit with TPMS, Dash Cam, and TorquePro via OBD2 . Alpine amps, infinity splits and sub, sound deadening in doors. Scanguage. GME UHF with 2.1db antenna. Clear view tow mirrors. Rubber floor/mud mats. Led interior lights and brake/tail & reverse lights. EVC Throttle Controller, Race Chip RS with Bluetooth control. AutoMate Pro.

  • #2
    The following can all cause noises that seem to come from the rear suspension.
    Wheel bearing hub nuts come loose, these are done up very tight at a torque beyond most common torque wrenches, 220Nm +/- 10Nm.
    The toe control and the hub knuckle ball joints should be checked for wear/play.
    The top shocker mount bushes for wear, correct installation and tightness.
    Lower coil insulator for wear.
    Coils that do not have 10mm gap between the end of the coil and the step/rebate in the coil pad.
    Rear door rub block out of adjustment.
    Rear driveshaft excess wear.

    Water in the diff can only enter through the diff vent, the piping for the RDL or the axle seals on the side of the diff as the rear suspension is independent.
    Water in the diff oil will turn the diff oil milky.

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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