Below Nav Bar Ad Module

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Engine oil changes for a DiD

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine oil changes for a DiD

    Hi knowledgable Pajero forum people,

    Is there anyone who can explain why, apparently, a direct injection diesel Pajero does not need as frequent oil and oil filter changes as other diesels?

    The Handbook for my 2004 NP auto DiD suggests an intermediate (ie at each 7500kms) change of engine oil and filter for all diesel vehicles except for DiDs. It seems to mean that DiDs (my Pajero) can go the full 15000km between oil changes.

    Cheers

    Denis

  • #2
    I would not recommend doing 15,000km between changes.

    With the crap oil they put in at MMA service (typically Castrol or Shell) - you will get about 8,000km before the oil seriously starts to breakdown (you can hear the engine change noise).

    With good oil you will get about 9,000 to 12,000km before it starts to go off.

    Beyond these km's you will hurt your engine.

    An oil change takes 30 minutes tops if you do it yourself (including oil filter) - parts and good oil about $100 to $120 (cheaper if you purchase 20L drums)
    Last edited by marquis; 06-11-07, 04:26 PM.
    --
    Marquis
    SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, I change the oil and filter every 7,500km, but is there something about how direct injection works that means that the oil takes longer to break down than does the oil in other types of diesel engine? Mitsubishi seem to be distinguishing between types of diesel engine when referring to engine oil changes.

      Cheers

      Denis

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm no expert but I think it's all to do with the amount of diesel which is injected into the combustion chamber. In a DID the diesel should be metered to give exactly the right dose according to throttle(accelerator) position. With the fly by wire, the engine computer knows exactly how much diesel needs to be injected ( with other inputs from the motor).
        To inject the "perfect" amount of diesel for combustion means no residual diesel is left to waste (not burn or combust). Read: Build up inside the bore and gunk up or glaze which will lead to premature piston wear which in turn leads to early failure of your motor.
        End rant

        Comment


        • #5
          Campo is getting close... along with the better fuels ie: lowered sulphur content (sulphur being acidic when heated) in oils and fuel are making engines last longer.

          I don't see the need to change oils as often as some say.. to me it's old school thinking.
          Besides that.. if you keep your car say 5 yrs or 200,000km and trade it in... no car yard will give you extra money because of this.... so it just equals waste of money... and most engines are lasting 250-300 easy (except of course nissans 3lt job :-) ) as long as it's been serviced regularly.. thats all they care about.

          Use good oil and fuel.. if you going to keep your car... if not, trade it in by no later than 200,000km... simple really.... rather spend good money on other things myself.

          Ray

          Comment


          • #6
            You can always get it tested - most Westrac Cat workshops can send it away for a report. I am doing the intermediate changes (7.5k) myself. it could probably go out to 15k but given that it is either running around town on short trips or lugging a ski boat up steep mountain passes 7.5k seems the safer option.

            Re the oil / filter costs... Yes, 20L drums are the way to go. I puchase a 20L of Delo 400 multigrade for every 2 oil changes but I make sure I get it from the local Caltex dealer. $89.00 was the bill for the last one.

            Pat
            2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
            2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4

            Comment


            • #7
              Similar to my thinking. From what I've heard some car manufacturers have gone to 15,000km service because fleet operators demanded it to keep sales higher and fleet vehicle operating and service costs lower. I don't think this is the case with the DiD.
              DiD technology lends itself to less contamination of oil. Combine this with a good quality synthetic oil, 15,000kms shouldn't be an issue. To play it safe you could do 7,500, but the double in oil cost when using top of the line oil is a fair slug in the hip pocket. On-going oil testing would confirm if 15,000 is ok, anything else is speculation. I'm currently considering eitherr keeping on doing the 7,500 or alternatively going down the pasth of oil testing at every s15,000.
              NS oil burner shorty

              Comment


              • #8
                I am planning on having mine tested after it's next service so perhaps hang out for the results.
                Last edited by psproule; 27-01-10, 07:19 PM.
                2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
                2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4

                Comment


                • #9
                  Are there any traps to be aware of when changing the engine oil in a Did Pajero or is the procedure the same as a petrol engine?

                  Is it better to have the engine warm in order for the old oil to drain easier?

                  Should you use any additive? and what type/brand of oil is best suited?

                  I read a post on the old site that talked of Valvoline Engine Armour, any thoughts?

                  Cheers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Straight through EGR mod PS?
                    NS oil burner shorty

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Aframe1967 View Post
                      Are there any traps to be aware of when changing the engine oil in a Did Pajero or is the procedure the same as a petrol engine?
                      3.2L DiD No traps - I do it all the time. Head down to MM pickup an $55 oil filter and sump plug washer. Head to Caltex and pickup 20L drum or 2x5L of Delo 400 Multigrade. Just need a good 100degC 10L bucket ($3 at BigW). Supercheap (or similar) 3'x6' $3 trap and $1 funnel. A rag. Drive home leave for about an hour (to cool down enough that you will not burn yourself - on flat ground) Undo and remove the 2 bolts from the rear of the plastic sump cover, partly undo the other 2 cover bolts and remove the cover. With 3'x6' tarp under (catch any oil drops) - remove the old old filter, a little oil on the seal of the new filter and install (drain the old oil filter). Remove dip stick a bit. Jack the front up 0.5" to 1" (just on on side - the wheels on the ground still - makes it alot easier to fit the 10L bucket under). Place the bucket under and undo sump plug, drain, install new washer with washer flat side towards the plug head and do up. Add new oil using clean funnel (need about 8.5L with the new filter) . Remove jack, install engine sump cover - done. Takes about 20-30 minutes.
                      (instructions are general for newbie's - not aimed at you alex)

                      If you buy the 20L drum the funnel is not required or a larger funnel is required - you are better off with a proper oil pump with the twist valve on the end - like this (use the same for ATF) - first image on right
                      http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBA...3794&P=2025419
                      but you can get them from places like SuperCheap, Repco etc.,

                      Originally posted by Aframe1967 View Post
                      Should you use any additive? and what type/brand of oil is best suited?
                      NO ADDITIVES - the oil you buy should have the correct additives in it.

                      Cannot comment on the oil you spec'd. I have tried Castrol, Shell, BP, Caltex - so far Caltex DELO 400 Multigrade runs for >8000km without oil breakdown and the engine runs quiet (Castrol is so so noisy, most the others start to breakdown at 6,000 - 7,500k)

                      Note - Make sure you everything on the checklist in the service log book. Brake fluid, ATF, etc - they are all easy to change really (Service Manual procedure recommended for ATF). There is a grease nipple on the front drive shaft that you have to undo 4 bolts to get too...
                      Last edited by marquis; 11-11-07, 11:10 PM.
                      --
                      Marquis
                      SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Eastie View Post
                        Straight through EGR mod PS?
                        EGR - what EGR


                        Oh you mean that thing sitting in the back shed
                        --
                        Marquis
                        SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          had tought about it, but haven't looked at it yet.....good to hear it works though
                          NS oil burner shorty

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by marquis View Post
                            EGR - what EGR


                            Oh you mean that thing sitting in the back shed
                            Warranty.
                            Last edited by psproule; 27-01-10, 07:19 PM.
                            2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
                            2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I just did my first service on the Paj. Bought the car at 42k and now it has hit 45k it was time.
                              I did the oil with PM Enviro Turbolife and it has quietened the DiD down considerably. I'd like to do the EGR mod: does anybody have a "How To?"
                              ATF was a pain (the PM dealer strongly recommended using Mitsu ATF for it, so I did.) Took forever to pump up into the dipstick tube.
                              Both Diffs and Transfer case were piss easy to do. Used PM products for these too.

                              Almost all the magnetic plugs had a fair amount of magnetic sludge buildup.

                              I seem to have a slight weeping coming from the rearmost of those 2 circlip seals on the AutoTrans on the driver's side. Is that an easy fix?

                              Also noticed that there appears to be no hose on the AC Drip/Drain. Is that a free warranty fix?
                              Current ride. EP91 Starlet Auto
                              Missus car: 2005 Platinum DiD Auto, H/R Towbar, Rhino Sportz Aero Bars, Redarc Isolator, Elec Brake Controller. 2" Lift and LT Tyres.

                              Comment

                              Matched content

                              Collapse
                              Working...
                              X