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Easiest way to remove crankshaft pulley bolt

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  • Easiest way to remove crankshaft pulley bolt

    Hi everyone,

    Ive bitten the bullet and Im going to pull the heads off my NH Pajero to see where all the water is going.

    I got a bit started on it today and will be slowly doing the work. Ive removed the top plenum, although in doing so, maybe I should have left it on and loosened the crankshaft bolt first?

    Whats the easiest way to get the bolt removed? I guess I could remove the starter motor and jam a screw driver in to lock the flywheel? Its a automatic transmission as well.

    Thanks
    Last edited by tez; 26-05-08, 11:07 PM.

  • #2
    rattle gun

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    • #3
      I dont have access to one. Can they be hired from Kennards etc?

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      • #4
        go buy a airtool set from supercheap that has one in it, these kits will suffice for irregular home use, then get a cheap compressor too from them, cost you not much more than a hire fee, and you will have them always at hand later to do anything else, otherwise go pay a mechanic the same cost in labour.
        You'll have to drop out the radiator to get the rattle gun in there though (mine Just fits)

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        • #5
          I've had problems getting the crankshaft bolt off, but after talking to a friend, the way the mechanics normally do it when thay don't have access to the air gun, is to use a master-bar and strong socket (they may be called something different in Oz - I bought mine in Glasgow before coming over), place the bar against the passenger side chassis rail and turn the starter motor over a quick turn, remembering to dis-connect the distributor cap so the engine doesn't fire.

          Mine is using upto 1.5L of water on a 70km run.

          Took of the bash plates and saw the water was coming from the front left hand side of the engine looking at it from the front of the car.

          By the time I took off the timing belt cover I could see water was coming from the bottom left hand side of the water pump. After removing the pump it appears that my problem is due to the gaskets being buggered. The left side of the gasket that goes between the pump and the engine was totally rotten. The gasket that goes inside the water pump was nearly non-existent. The o-ring that goes on the shaft the water pump pushes onto was also distorted. I don't see any apparent problems with the mechanical parts of the water pump, but I'm going to change it anyway as I've bought a replacement.

          As yet the new pump isn't in, due to the o-ring that came with the new pump being the wrong size. As the local part shop was shut by the time I found out the new o-ring was too big, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to put everything back together.
          97 NK

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          • #6
            Would a 240v impact wrench have enough torque to loosen the crankshaft bolt?
            Just trying to think of cheaper ways out of this.

            I dont really want to take it to a mechanic to remove as it would mean a tow two ways (ive already removed the plenum etc)

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            • #7
              I have also been told by a Hyundai mechanic about using the starter motor, a socket and a strong bar against the chasis rail.

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              • #8
                So im told, you run the risk of cracking the crank using that technique, the only reason a mechanic should be doing it is because of lack of tools or know how... There are torque multiplying breaker bars specific for the job, in a lot of cases there isnt enough room to fit a rattle gun, or more so one capable of doing the job.

                Having said all that, your not willing to spend the money to buy the tools, nor are you willing to pay for someone to do the job for you so you may have no choice

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                • #9
                  i have made a tool shaped like the letter F at the end of the two protusions you drill and weld two high tensile bolts that will fit in the holes on the harmoic balancer . this way no damage to any thing . put a socket on the bolt with ratchet ,put a extension bar on the ratchet and wala, all done .

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 6G74 View Post
                    There are torque multiplying breaker bars specific for the job, in a lot of cases there isnt enough room to fit a rattle gun, or more so one capable of doing the job.

                    They actually make torque multiplying bars...

                    And for all these years I've used trusty lengths of water pipe..... all be it most are now bendt.... do the job....



                    Biggest problem is it's auto and not a chain drive cam.... had a thought you could lock the cam sprockets to the head.... and then just socket and water pipe for leverage on the crankshaft bolt..............

                    ..........then I remembered... the cam sprockets run on an elastic band which you'd rip the teeth off.

                    The trouble with locking the ring gear with a screwdriver is you can burr teeth and cause more problems than solve.




                    Bit stuck here matey... can't help ya.
                    'No Princess' - NJ LWB - Modded 2.8TD

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                    • #11
                      Well its not that Im not willing to spend the money. I will buy a air compressor and rattle gun if needed, although I was wondering if impact wrenches (cordless ones) would have enough torque to remove the bolt. I should have loosened it before I started removing the plenum etc.

                      If its a compressor and impact wrench that will do the job, then I'll be off to get one.

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                      • #12
                        if you are going to get it off with a rattle gun , how are you going to torque it back up?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by zacc View Post
                          i have made a tool shaped like the letter F at the end of the two protusions you drill and weld two high tensile bolts that will fit in the holes on the harmoic balancer . this way no damage to any thing . put a socket on the bolt with ratchet ,put a extension bar on the ratchet and wala, all done .
                          How you attached it to the crank, be it bolt or balancer etc i dont think is the issue, i think its more to do with the shock transfer through the whole crank. Who knows, it may only happen every once in a blue moon, its happened before, i just dont wont my crank to be the next blue moon

                          Jaydee - They are horribly expensive, you can get crank bolt specific ones, the one i got was just over a couple of hundred and apparently cheap?? ive seen the bars in general for up to 5k

                          As for gettin it off, perhaps zaccs surgestion may be your only feasible option - or perhaps pay lubemobile or something to come out and do it for you???

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                          • #14
                            i am not sure if what i sugested came across properly . the high tensile bolts are welded to the F tool. the tool is shaped like an F as to allow a torque wrench to be put on the crank bolt . the bolts only have to be 10-15mm long .when you put the toon on the balancer let it turn till it touchs a secure spot , then loosen or torque up the bolt. all up it cost about $5.00 in material and about half an hour to fabricate.

                            i am glad i dont have hyundi and have to take it to one of those mechanics.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 6G74 View Post
                              Jaydee - They are horribly expensive, you can get crank bolt specific ones, the one i got was just over a couple of hundred and apparently cheap?? ive seen the bars in general for up to 5k
                              So what are they 'bootique' style solid bit of polished 20mm bar with a socket welded onto the end ? Couple of hundred is damn dear for a hand tool that is used once.



                              Originally posted by tez View Post
                              Well its not that Im not willing to spend the money. I will buy a air compressor and rattle gun if needed, ...

                              If its a compressor and impact wrench that will do the job, then I'll be off to get one.
                              Well if your willing to spend the money and wish to work on your vehicle I'd suggest you start buying up tools using this situation as the first step into home workshop.

                              Don't... well you can if you want too..... but I'd advise not to buy a direct drive. Those direct drive things I sometimes see for $99 produce less airflow than someone who's had a curry the night before. Okay for a nail gun... hopeless at pumping up tyres and forget spray painting. It will be useless to you in this situation with a rattle gun.

                              Buy a compressor that will produce decent amounts of airflow, ie. capable of 12 CFM.

                              That bundle of air tools from Cheap Auto for $189 or something will do too. I have one of those bundles which I got at one of their sales for $99.... noisier and hook through the air more than brand name stuff but.... it does the job. Having a big CFM compressor makes up for the inefficiency of the tool.

                              See how you go with that.....
                              'No Princess' - NJ LWB - Modded 2.8TD

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