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  • Own servicing

    Hi there all, relatively new to the 4wd world. Recently purchased an NM 3.5 petrol and would like to do my own servicing, having worked in the autoelectrical industry for 30 years, so I'm looking for suggestions as to the correct oils, greases, filters etc to use. Motor has 135000 on the clock but has been dealer servced all its life.
    Many thx.
    Cheers, John
    Auto Electrician 35+ years
    NM but with tricky electrical setups of course.
    And that's the wank wank wank and more wank factor out of the way.

  • #2
    I've got an '02 NM V6 auto and do virtually all of the regular servicing as far as filters, oils, lubricants etc go.

    There have been various discussions on the forum about what is the best oil, filter, etc etc and I suspect it's often the one that makes you feel best. How to measure that, I'm buggered if I know.

    For engine oil I usually use Shell Helix semi synthetic 15/50 in summer and change to a Magnatec 10/40 in winter. I don't use original oil filters, sometimes I use Ryco, sometimes Valvoline. Virtually all Rycos are made in either South Africa or Korea nowadays, like most other filters. I bought a new paper air filter about 6 months back, the Auto1 house brand, made in Korea - looked identical to the Mitsubishi one I removed but how can you tell about the quality of paper??? I'd rather change them more often which is easier when the price is reasonable.

    In the auto I run Amsoil synthetic trans fluid - helps with heat, as I tow quite a heavy caravan. I've also enlarged the tranny cooling capacity.

    Transfer case and front diff I use Castrol gear oil in appropriate grades, LSD Castrol in the rear diff.

    None of this is hard to do once you remove the sump guards etc.

    I've also changed the in-tank fuel filter, and the oxygen sensor in the exhaust. I chickened out of the timing belts and spark plugs because I had a time limitation before I left on a big trip and didn't want to take the risk of something going wrong. Lots of forum members have done them themselves, same with brake pads, fluid etc.

    They're not hard to work on.

    Gaz
    2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.

    Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.

    My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi all, I'd like to service my NL Exceed myself, but how hard is it to get the sump gaurd off. I had a look and it all looked too hard. Does it just unbolt off or is there more to it.
      Thanks in advance.

      Great forum too!!
      04 NP Exceed
      3.8 V6
      My 2nd car and boat tow vehicle
      I love her

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      • #4
        Dealer servicing and it's still running? - amazing.

        I use the mm parts and good qu. oil.
        --
        Marquis
        SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

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        • #5
          Just about to do a service on my 03 NM.

          done motor no worries.
          about to do the diff's, transfer and auto.

          Any tips about filling the diff's and transfer, I don't have an oil pump.

          Also the auto, my guess is the filter is inside?
          Do I need to drop the pan off to change the filter??

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          • #6
            My tip would be to get an oil pump of some sort, either a hand pump or drill operated.

            Comment


            • #7
              Mitsy went through a stage where they had external auto filters, but unfortunately the paj never saw such a brilliant idea (cheaparse's), so yeh, pan off.

              Without a pump of some description, how do you plan to fill the tfc? diffs prolly isnt so bad...

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              • #8
                Yup pan has to come off, just changed my filter and it was simple and straightforward except the couple of bolts on the back of the pan right above the trans crossmember. They were a big PITA to get at and put back in.
                03 NP, 34" tires, Fully skiplated, Custom rocksliders, custom winch mount, OME HD springs/shocks, and Aeroflow exhaust, Locked Front and Rear.

                Happiness is like peeing your pants, everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

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                • #9
                  To do a complete oil change in the auto, it has to be hooked up to pump to remove all the oil The torque converter oil, how would it get out otherwise.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MFF64 View Post
                    To do a complete oil change in the auto, it has to be hooked up to pump to remove all the oil The torque converter oil, how would it get out otherwise.
                    I am not trying to step on your toes here but this is what I just did with my tranny and it got all the fluid out cause if you undo that hose on the front it will pump all the fluid out. Just do it as the procedure says and you will get all the fluid. I added the capacity of the tranny 6 qts or so and it was exactly at the level it needed to be. Was easy and saved me spending the money on having someone else do it at a shop.

                    With this link you will have to click on
                    #12 Automatic Transmission Fluid (Change)
                    http://www.pajero4x4.ru/piii/GR00001000-00.pdf
                    Someone correct me if I am wrong about this procedure

                    Mine was all pumped out in right around 30-45 seconds of running in neutral. It was a lot quicker than I thought it would be.
                    03 NP, 34" tires, Fully skiplated, Custom rocksliders, custom winch mount, OME HD springs/shocks, and Aeroflow exhaust, Locked Front and Rear.

                    Happiness is like peeing your pants, everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      finished the diff's and transfer case today, and without an oil pump.

                      would have bought one, but decided to have a play and see what happens and the shop had closed by the time I got my act into gear .
                      this is how I did it.

                      after everything was drained and had the drain bungs put back in.
                      Got a length of hose, actually used 12mm garden irrigation hose that I had lying around (clean of course).
                      for the front diff, just threaded the hose down in front of the motor, behind the fan, then pushed through the fill hole. let gravity do the work.
                      when we reckoned it was full. pulled it out and tested.

                      The rear diff did much the same, but threaded the hose down above and just to the front of the rear tire, through the cross members and into the fill bung.

                      The transfer case had me a little worried. However approached it much the same, threaded the hose down between the side step and chassis, over the exhaust, then into the fill bung. (hope that made sense). Was able to stand beside the paj and fill into the hose at about window height. Had one of the billy lids underneath checking for leaks, good use for them.
                      Used gravity again, wasted a bit of oil as the hose dropped lower than the fill point going under the chasis, but ended up higher than the fill point when over the exhaust. So would run in OK, but just would have some excess in the lower bit.
                      This again worked fine, drained in a little slow, but filled to the bung no probs.
                      I can mock up some photo's if anyone would like to see them.

                      Couldn't do the auto this time as am waiting for the gasket and filter to turn up. thanks to all the comments, not expecting any problems.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Icysrup,
                        Thankyou for that, just changed engine oil and was having a bit of think about the tranny oil and was wondering if I could pump it out using the motor and though nooo, might stuff something in the tranny.
                        Come back on here and find your post and thats what ya do, just got to get the oil and filter now. Speaking of oil, do you know of a full synthetic oil that can be used in these trannys? Last info I had, you had to stick with the oil MM used or they wouldn't work properly.

                        Cheers, Mark.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If auto tranny, stick to the MMA oil, lest you want your tranny to blow up.

                          The $8 manual cd's from E-bay have all the info for changing your tranny oil.

                          It's basically, open the return line at the oil cooler, run for a minute to drain oil, then drain sump oil, top up sump oil, then run for another minute and then top up. Should go through about 9 litres of oil, but it will be fully flushed.

                          Just did it a month ago.

                          John

                          If you want full instructions I could prob type them up for you.
                          Have a Gunmetal Grey NS V6 Exceed. Already raised with lovells, Poly airs, Colour coded ARB bullbar, Sidewinder Dual Batteries, WAECO CF50.... Just moved to Perth, wife and 2 girls and a bloody big boy dog.

                          Build Racing bikes in my spare time - check out the link: http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f120/

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                          • #14
                            Recommended oil for yours is Castrol TQ M-ST being a part synthetic oil. They also make a full synthetic oil (Castrol Transmax Z ) but not sure if it is compatable with Mitsu transmissions. You will need 9.3 ltrs.
                            Dave
                            NX Pampas Cat GLS MY16
                            Member 1228 Pajero Club

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks for that john_char and pickle, icycrup posted the link for the service manual, think i will stick to the MM oil in case there is a problem down the track. I have been sevicing the NP from day one (except for first service and warranty on dust problem, shakin mirror). Have you heard of anyone having problems with MM in relation to doing their own servicing? I talked to the dealer about doing my own when I bought it and they didn't seem to worried, explained that I serviced more than cars(trucks,earthmoving).

                              Cheers, Mark.

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