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timing belt change and clutch on nl pajero

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  • timing belt change and clutch on nl pajero

    Hi

    I am about to have the timing belt replaced on my 97 pajero with 220 000k on the clock. While this is being done should I also have other work done while it is apart. ie water pump, front seals, bearings of any sort, fan belts or anything else? One mechanic has recommended the water pump. Experiences on pricing would also be appreciated. Also what is the normal life expectancy for fan/alternater/aircon belts? I am also after info on clutch overhauls as mine is only engaging drive when nearly fully released (up), so I am thinking it is close to replacement. Whilst backing a trailer into sand i think I actually experienced some slip.

    thanks Kc

  • #2
    The drive belts i wouldnt be concerned about - if the appear to have any signs of cracks etc, fine replace them, if not i wouldnt worry.

    As for the front stuff, at those k;s, assuming you dont know the complete history of it, id replace everything, water pump, tensioner, all your idlers (whcih come in the timing belt kits anyway) and all your seals (also in teh kits).... Plugs are prolly due as well, fuel filter, air and oil, coolant if its due. The pumps are bout 300, same for the tensioner, kits are at least that... So for parts alone if you saw change for anywhere near 1k id be a happy camper assuming the stuff mentioned gets done.

    As for your clutch, this ones gonna hurt more then the last, aftermarket the going rate is about 700 odd for a clutch kit - its a good 6 hours labour to remove and reinstal, so your looking at over a grand there as well.

    Good luck....

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    • #3
      Thanks 6G74

      drive belts have done 45000k since changed but look good. Vehicle has been log book serviced so all oils, filters, coolant changed at recomended k's. I imagine coolant will have to be dropped to do timing belts. Is that correct? I knew it would not be cheap but negotiated a good purchase price so am prepared for it. I imagine when getting clutch done i would also replace rear engine seal. the engine doesnt use any oil and otherwise the car drives like new with new brakes, aircon, rubber and shocks, so I am figuring once these 2 areas are attended to I should have a fairly reliable unit..... fingers crossed.

      regards Kc

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      • #4
        most people drop the radiiator to do the timing belt. CBC bearinf have all the bits for heaps cheaper thatn Repco and places like that.

        I would change the water pump while there and definitly cam, crank seals and the tensioner and idler pulley.

        Should really be due for everything to be changed/checked, it really would be worth it.

        I did almost everything a month ago, all diff oils, brake fluid, power steering oil, tranny oil, transfer oil, brake pads and engine oil/filter/air filter.

        Drives like a dream, well except for the drive train clunk.

        John

        John
        Have a Gunmetal Grey NS V6 Exceed. Already raised with lovells, Poly airs, Colour coded ARB bullbar, Sidewinder Dual Batteries, WAECO CF50.... Just moved to Perth, wife and 2 girls and a bloody big boy dog.

        Build Racing bikes in my spare time - check out the link: http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f120/

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        • #5
          220 km.... mines yet to do 92... should stop riding the bike i suppose.. won't be able to wear the dam the out the way i'm going

          Ray

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          • #6
            Originally posted by kcandco View Post
            Thanks 6G74

            drive belts have done 45000k since changed but look good. Vehicle has been log book serviced so all oils, filters, coolant changed at recomended k's. I imagine coolant will have to be dropped to do timing belts. Is that correct? I knew it would not be cheap but negotiated a good purchase price so am prepared for it. I imagine when getting clutch done i would also replace rear engine seal. the engine doesnt use any oil and otherwise the car drives like new with new brakes, aircon, rubber and shocks, so I am figuring once these 2 areas are attended to I should have a fairly reliable unit..... fingers crossed.

            regards Kc
            With the clutch, idealy you would have the flywheel machined, replaced the spigot bearing and also your rear main seal - theres another $100buks for ya....

            It would be vary difficult if you i didnt remove the radiator, so the coolant needs to be drained, if your keen you could put in into buckets or something but generally speakin it gets replaced.

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            • #7
              Thanks everyone for your input. It has really helped. I now have a list to work on. Ray I wish mine had 90 tho on it as well, but at least the previous owner serviced it well and also lived 20k from work (at 100kph) so this accounts for fair mileage, thought most of that was 'highway mileage' as they say. I have previously rebuilt a 84 2.6 pajero motor and had gearbox out on that, but with time constraints and lack of familiarity with this vehicle am a bit nervous about tackling these jobs myself. Have you also done spark plug changes? If so what is involved in that.

              regards Kc

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              • #8
                Do the water pump at the same time as I had mine seize on my NF at 180 k and it cost a lot of money as it chewed the front covers.

                I found the timming belt from MM was the cheapest for the 3 litre, aslo try ingrams for parts as well

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                • #9
                  My NM V6 had a new water pump and a few other bits done recently - here are some of the parts prices:

                  water pump $192
                  timing belt $145
                  belt tensioner $116
                  crank seal $15
                  rear cam oil seal $33

                  most of the stuff came from Mitsubishi.

                  Gaz
                  2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.

                  Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.

                  My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.

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