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  • Greasing CV joints

    Is it possible?
    Practical?
    Required. ?
    My Pajero has 135000 on it and I'm guessing none of the joints has been changed.

    I like to operate on the proactive side of things, so if I spend a little time now I may save a fortune later.
    Cheers, John
    Auto Electrician 35+ years
    NM but with tricky electrical setups of course.
    And that's the wank wank wank and more wank factor out of the way.

  • #2
    Hi John,

    I wouldn't think that you will need to re-grease up the CV Joints unless your boot has been torn apart then water and dirt would enter in.

    But if your willing to take your time to re-grease them, then you will need to take off the shaft and clean off the old grease and insert the new grease on the joints as old grease and new grease don't like each other.

    I would personally wait until one of them fails, then replace it with a new one. You are probably looking at the most $150 for each one. The amount of K's your Paj has done looks like you don't need to worry about them for a while. I would suggest to grease up all other joints that have a grease nipple, e.g tail shafts, Ball joints, etc
    Last edited by MITSIR; 11-09-07, 03:30 PM.
    NJ Shortie 3ltr
    ARB Bullbar, ARB Front and Rear Air Locca, polyair bag suspension, Airtek snorkel, Dual Battery setup, Exhaust setup, Big Doof Doof Stereo

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    • #3
      Agreed... provided the boots are intact, they remain a non servicable item. In sayin that, it definately wouldnt do any harm....

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      • #4
        Actually new joints cant be had, either factory or aftermarket on the NM/P/S. New shafts and joints (that Mitsu or the aftermarket would have you buy) are over $1500.

        Personally I would leave them alone. If you open them up the chances of letting a bit of grit in, and the seals not re-sealing are reasonably high. But do inspect the boots for damage regularly.

        Pat
        16 Mitsu NX Pajero GLX
        10 Ford LV Focus ST / XR5

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        • #5
          I just went through this process with my Challenger after tearing a boot - was pretty time consuming but I was glad I did it (I now know how to completely dismantle and remove my CVs and hubs).

          Removed the CVs, stripped em down to bare metal, regreased them all with Castrol LMM CV grease, whacked 4 new boots on. While I was at it I also stripped down the wheel bearings and repacked them with Castrol HTB grease.

          It wasn't overly hard (took a day but now I know what to do probably less) - breaking the balljoints without a balljoint tool was a pain but a friend showed me a good trick with a jack and a hammer.
          Undefined Journeys Blog
          Exploring Western Australia 1 Dirt Track at a time!

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          • #6
            I've just started noticing a click from the back drivers side when taking off, certainly sounds like a CV joint. I've only done 110K though, thought they would last a bit longer, also raised about 35mm in the rear, this may have some impact.

            $1500 for a new shaft does not sound good. I'm sure someone on here had to replace one after they broke one and they got an aftermarket joint only for alot less.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mrbishi View Post
              While I was at it I also stripped down the wheel bearings and repacked them with Castrol HTB grease.
              IMO, HTB grease should never be used on wheel bearings. They don't get hot enough.
              Cheers, John.
              LC200 V8 goodness

              MY12 LC200 GXL 4.5Lt V8 twin turbo, GVM upgrade, ARB bar, Warn winch, Outback Acc rear bar and dual carrier, TJM sidesteps, Bushskinz, Long Ranger 180Lt tank, Black Widow drawers, cargo barrier, Polaris Awning, +++
              Ex - NM auto, 2"Kings, Bilsteins, Buckshots, Wildcat headers, 2.75" Mandrel bent exhaust, Injected LPG, Smartbar, Scraper bar, Bushskinz, Custom steps, Dual Batteries, Breathers, Black Widow drawers, Polaris Awning.

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              • #8
                Brett, it could just be wear in the drive splines. You can remove these fairly easily and apply a light film of grease. It somtimes shuts them up. I ended up putting in a pair of shafts / cv's from a wreckers to shut mine up though @160,000km.
                16 Mitsu NX Pajero GLX
                10 Ford LV Focus ST / XR5

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                • #9
                  I used to grease the CV's in my old Subie everytime I done a service about every 10,000.But when I saw the light and bought a Triton I never even touched the CV's and now I'm on my second Triton.This does pose a very good question.

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                  • #10
                    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mitsubishi-L2...QQcmdZViewItem

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                    • #11
                      Yes, but those WON'T fit an NM/NP/NS...

                      Peter
                      2012 NW Platinum DiD, 2" Lift, Bar & Winch, Driving Lights, Dual Battery, Snorkel.

                      Soon to be Ex- 2002 NM Exceed 3.2DiD, Lifted, PSI Powerbox, Bullbar, HID Driving Lights.

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