Jaffles NX cook up

[jaffles]

all good, its not a brag fest cause it is what it is. Had a mate use Battery World Alderney and the price we virtually the same.

N70T MTY Yuasa Deep Cycle 105Ah $300,
67 MFY Yuasa power series Ultra auto $270 (new cranker)

ARB Tray, around $240

Battery world instalation labour and parts $965

The ARB tray moves the OE filter more to the centre or fire wall. Comes will all the bits to do so. Sorry I can't recall the part number.

[Jasonmc73]

What are you personally looking for? do tell

Rear bumper

I'm looking for rear bumper protection that will allow the bum to drag on the ground on the bar, not the bumper, stray rock or whatever across the width as far as practical,
Obviously also stop bumper being a scoop, also alloy doesn't rust.

Boos Skid plate is probably enough, but just what i've decided is all see this at minute 27.05

The Boos plate is skid plate the width of tow points of towbar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vM4-cIG0J7E

Bushskinz bumper protector 6mm alloy with box section Alloy bolted to the tie down points but about 150mm wider bar than the tie down points.
It's fairly substantial plate & bar

With rattle gun would take 2 minutes to remove if one wanted too, maybe 5 tops to install.

https://www.bushskinz4x4.com.au/bush...-nt-nw-nx-rear

[DT6061]

all good, its not a brag fest cause it is what it is. Had a mate use Battery World Alderney and the price we virtually the same.

N70T MTY Yuasa Deep Cycle 105Ah $300,
67 MFY Yuasa power series Ultra auto $270 (new cranker)

ARB Tray, around $240

Battery world instalation labour and parts $965

The ARB tray moves the OE filter more to the centre or fire wall. Comes will all the bits to do so. Sorry I can't recall the part number.

Thank you,

Seems reasonable.

Is cost of Redarc VSR, fuse panel, USB ports etc included in there?
Any reason not to use DCDC given yours has a smart alternator?

[jaffles]

Thank you,

Seems reasonable.

Is cost of Redarc VSR, fuse panel, USB ports etc included in there?
Any reason not to use DCDC given yours has a smart alternator?

Yes everything in there except DCDC.
Hmmm now I'm not great with this and I took advice from a mate who has his head around it well. I hope I can make sense of it back to you.

The plan was when I was going to tow, was put a decent quality DCDC in the trailer, and charge decent AGM batteries, and also accomodate the solar panel. I understand DCDC chargers don't like heat, water, or dirt all that much. Potentially all the stuff found in an engine bay. There was also a thinking that a set up like that is designed to sit and stay for long periods.

However for shorter runs, or weekends, no DCDC would suffice. Given I will now have a solar panel mounted permanently on the car, and in my experience that has kept a battery (admittedly AGM) in fine shape just by using a simple MPPT regulator. The need for a DCDC is somewhat removed. I accept that a lead acid is slower charging, and it may take the battery sometime to charge either from the sun or a long drive if drained low. But I will see how it all goes first before dropping another $500 on a charger, or alternative batteries.

We are not huge power consumers. The 47lt fridge and one or two led lights. Music, coffee machines, showers, fans or lights on everywhere is not out kind of camping.

I think best practice is to use a DCDC particularly with a smart alternator. And to be honest the shop was not keen to proceed without installing one. They didn't want to be accused of installing a system that potentially didn't charge the battery to its full compacity. However I told them I understand what I'm asking them to do and happy with it being done that way.

Think that's how it all was. I'm sure there are many ways to skin cats, but I wanted a simple one that worked and didn't cost a lot.

[Dicko1]

Yes everything in there except DCDC.
Hmmm now I'm not great with this and I took advice from a mate who has his head around it well. I hope I can make sense of it back to you.

The plan was when I was going to tow, was put a decent quality DCDC in the trailer, and charge decent AGM batteries, and also accomodate the solar panel. I understand DCDC chargers don't like heat, water, or dirt all that much. Potentially all the stuff found in an engine bay. There was also a thinking that a set up like that is designed to sit and stay for long periods.

However for shorter runs, or weekends, no DCDC would suffice. Given I will now have a solar panel mounted permanently on the car, and in my experience that has kept a battery (admittedly AGM) in fine shape just by using a simple MPPT regulator. The need for a DCDC is somewhat removed. I accept that a lead acid is slower charging, and it may take the battery sometime to charge either from the sun or a long drive if drained low. But I will see how it all goes first before dropping another $500 on a charger, or alternative batteries.

We are not huge power consumers. The 47lt fridge and one or two led lights. Music, coffee machines, showers, fans or lights on everywhere is not out kind of camping.

I think best practice is to use a DCDC particularly with a smart alternator. And to be honest the shop was not keen to proceed without installing one. They didn't want to be accused of installing a system that potentially didn't charge the battery to its full compacity. However I told them I understand what I'm asking them to do and happy with it being done that way.

Think that's how it all was. I'm sure there are many ways to skin cats, but I wanted a simple one that worked and didn't cost a lot.

With solar on the roof you will not need a dcdc unless pulling big amounts of power per day. I have solar that gives about 8 amps an hour on the roof and to be honest I have yet to turn the dcdc charger on. Normally run an engel 40 litre on freeze. Living in FNQ.....there is plenty of free sunshine.

[jaffles]

Good to hear Dicko.
I'm not that technical, if the green light is on the MPPT I'm happy. I have always had the solar panel removable and this one will no different, however i have only ever needed to run it out with an extension cable once when we stayed put for 4 days. We were under Casuarinas at the beach.

Mate recons I should buy fold ups, but given I already have this, the weight is similar, and what I have works whenever in the sun I can't see the need. Also been around the block once or twice aso happy with its strength.

[DT6061]

Yes everything in there except DCDC.
Hmmm now I'm not great with this and I took advice from a mate who has his head around it well. I hope I can make sense of it back to you.

The plan was when I was going to tow, was put a decent quality DCDC in the trailer, and charge decent AGM batteries, and also accomodate the solar panel. I understand DCDC chargers don't like heat, water, or dirt all that much. Potentially all the stuff found in an engine bay. There was also a thinking that a set up like that is designed to sit and stay for long periods.

However for shorter runs, or weekends, no DCDC would suffice. Given I will now have a solar panel mounted permanently on the car, and in my experience that has kept a battery (admittedly AGM) in fine shape just by using a simple MPPT regulator. The need for a DCDC is somewhat removed. I accept that a lead acid is slower charging, and it may take the battery sometime to charge either from the sun or a long drive if drained low. But I will see how it all goes first before dropping another $500 on a charger, or alternative batteries.

We are not huge power consumers. The 47lt fridge and one or two led lights. Music, coffee machines, showers, fans or lights on everywhere is not out kind of camping.

I think best practice is to use a DCDC particularly with a smart alternator. And to be honest the shop was not keen to proceed without installing one. They didn't want to be accused of installing a system that potentially didn't charge the battery to its full compacity. However I told them I understand what I'm asking them to do and happy with it being done that way.

Think that's how it all was. I'm sure there are many ways to skin cats, but I wanted a simple one that worked and didn't cost a lot.

I am very, very grateful for the information you've shared here. I agree that "less is more". Our idea of camping is also simple (although have just invested in a simple stove top coffee maker that actually does a decent cap or latte).
Cheers, enjoy your journeys.

[Jasonmc73]

Good to hear Dicko.
I'm not that technical, if the green light is on the MPPT I'm happy. I have always had the solar panel removable and this one will no different, however i have only ever needed to run it out with an extension cable once when we stayed put for 4 days. We were under Casuarinas at the beach.

Mate recons I should buy fold ups, but given I already have this, the weight is similar, and what I have works whenever in the sun I can't see the need. Also been around the block once or twice aso happy with its strength.

I have a camper trailer with Redarc BCDC1240 feeding 240amp hours of AGM batteries (2x120's).
Its 40 amp & too big for one battery, fry the battery.
It's really good for this use, its almost like having my own generator when the sun doesn't shine.
I have a house Solar panel & seperate MPPT regulator as trailer originally had it, it shows Voltage & the house panel is too higher voltage for Redarc BCDC anyhow.
It the sun shines big panel, she'll put out 10-12Amps, by lunchish charged if i have sun to put it in etc.

With no sun it's fantastic, warm up vehicle with trailer plugged in, 20 minutes (above idle is best), go out come back, warm down vehicle extended & my batteries stay on top of things

In your application as described & permanent solar, same chemistry batteries, if in doubt switch on auxillary load, example cabin fan for air con & or headlights, it will lift alternator output to accomadate load.

I try & keep my AGM's way above 50% state of charge, less depth you cycle batteries longer they'll last.

What Redarc do with BCDC if of interest for smart alternator is as follows,

You wire an on/ off wire basically to igntion power & above 12 volts when that wire gets energised, charging begins, hence not wired to auxillary.

[jaffles]

Well its Easter and COVID strikes again, little ol Brisbane this time. So my plans to go bushwalking in Tasmania has been bushed. And here's hoping the back up plan to go to Fraser Island is not also buggered. So here is another of my wax and wain write ups.

The rush is on to get a bit more prepared. I have to say the jury is out on the Bushskinz fuel tank bash plate. Bushskinz service has been good on the whole. And maybe I don't think enough or just get to excited, but some instructions and coding of mounting braces to the bash plate holes would be good. Given I bought a bash plate I figured the OE one had to go. Its easy enough to take off, until I discover the front of the guard is moulded up around the front of the tank. Way to hard to undo stuff to get it out as one, so bastardisation with multi grips soon had the front torn off and the OE plate out. Its made of a plastersized fibreglass. Tuff enough I suspect for flying stones but its not going to go well if belly flopped on rocks.

T1.JPG T2.jpg T3.jpg

It was around then I discovered I was down one bracket and could not makes sense of the ones I had. Some communication with Kieron I discovered his aftermarket plate fits over the OE. Hmmm
He kindly and immediately jumped on sending me another bracket. Anyway OE plate is 3.9kg and aftermarket 6mm alloy is 9.1. A gain of 5.2 is better than a total of 13 I say. Yes I'm still watching my weight.

I'm also not that excited the way it mounts, particularly at the front. I had to do some trimming to get holes to line up, no big deal. However for general access or if its bent I think it will be a fair pain in the arse. I can not see a mechanic also being bothered as you need a set of those asian manufacturing arms to get access easy. It might bee said why does the fuel tank guard need to come off, well it doesn't. But there are two bolts that are associated with the gearbox plate, and they are now very hard to access. Some of of the mounting arms also needed hole filed in a certain direction to allow for the OE washed nut to tighten rather than bind of the bracket. In saying all this its not that hard to sort just the other plates fitted 100%. I think cutting a scollop out of the small section of the bent up side where you stuff your arm in at the front would solve the access problem. Next time its off I say. Over all it all tightened up firm and feels strong.
P.jpg P1.jpg P2.jpg p4.jpg b.jpg

There is now a good 40-50m gap between the plate and the fuel tank. In the game of ground clearance inches I'm pondering of remaking the brackets to reduce the gap down to 20 to 25mm. See how it goes on Fraser. As with every mod there is down side. I may now have more protection than a set of Bolle sunglasses, but I also have a huge surface area to belly flop on sand.

x.jpg x1.jpg x2.jpg

[jaffles]

While I was down at the fabricators though we better finish off the solar. We fiddled around and made the panel secure in a flat position, and with the removal and re fitment of that one bolt I can lift the panel to be like a spoiler. Apart from better aerodynamic for all the crap on the roof rack, the tent can slot up under the panel to utilise vacant space.

s.jpg s1.jpg s3.jpg s2.jpg q.jpg

[jaffles]

The left buttock and upper thigh have been developing an ache on long drives. Bit of a first for me. I tried fiddling with the lumber adjustment on the seat, but differance. I tried some honeycomb silicon cushion you are almost meant to get an orgasim from off facebook. But should have stuck to why I call it fools book.

Found this thread on foot rests and fitting them to the NX. https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...ey-exist/page9
So for around $35 it has as much chance as the poxy cushion.

I am perhaps a bit more brutal than ones in the thread, but it literally too me 30 minutes to install after you have all the pieces.

I used
1 x M6 nut to lock the hex nut.
1 x M6 hex nut, 18mm. If can find a 25 or 30mm long one go with that.
1 x M6 bolt 30mm
1 x 20mm flat washer
blue tac
bread knife and small kitchen knife.



I peeled back the carpet and pulled the polystyrene foot rest out. It was easier than trying to undo the plastic clip thing.
Then cut the flat bit off the foot rest as it remains under mounded carpet in the foot well.
With the locating M6 thread exposed, put a nut on then the hex hut. Allow enough thread in the hex for a bolt to come down from the top, then lock the hex and nut against each.



I couldn't get the footrest to sit snug enough due to the carpet under the mounding, so I made room.
I filled the head of the 10mm socket with blueback, stuck my bolt on with the washer and tightened firm. Actually my bolt bottomed out just as it all firmed up, so no shortening needed.
Fits snug and holds the carpet down well. No rocking or twisting.

See how the buttock goes.

p7.jpg p8.jpg

[flyreels]

Hi Jaffels, we’re did you get the foot rest from? I tried the part number MR402160 from partsouq and it came up with nothing found.

[jaffles]

Hi Jaffels, we’re did you get the foot rest from? I tried the part number MR402160 from partsouq and it came up with nothing found.

A mob called Amayama. Google knows them, a Japanese parts company. Think thats where everyone gets them. Wreckers are slim picking, and the deals appear to struggle with it.

[flyreels]

A mob called Amayama. Google knows them, a Japanese parts company. Think thats where everyone gets them. Wreckers are slim picking, and the deals appear to struggle with it.

Thanks for that I will get on and order it