Seasons Greetings to all forum members

Below Nav Bar Ad Module



No announcement yet.

A simple but very effective "Cutting In & Detail Paint Brush"

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • A simple but very effective "Cutting In & Detail Paint Brush"

    The worst thing about "Lock Down" beside the bleeding obvious is that you see all those jobs that need doing around the there is the "hints" dropped on occasion..
    I will not go there.
    Some blokes love that stuff..weekend, days off..they are in there DIY ripping and tearing stuff off their places..banging, sawing their hearts content off..watching "The Block"..thinking of the next project.
    Me..nah..I'm off any excuse to go 4wding, camping, bushwalking walking, kayaking..even driving to a pub lunch 100k's away for a feed with the better half.
    Alas..those painting jobs which I have put aside for a rainy day have come out to play..especially now.
    So it was with a "heavy heart:..I had to crack open the painting gear..blow the dust off the brushes and get to work.
    I must admit..I can't paint..yeh, I can paint a bit...but in the beginning of my DIY painting career in the end I get more paint on myself than the actual job I'm am suppose to be painting.
    Thanks to the University of Youtube and Dr painting skill level is a bit better from the beginning of my DIY home painting days..
    Whilst at work last week, me and a work colleague who use to be a semi professional painter in his past to talking about about those painting jobs.
    The biggest PITA for me is the fiddly bits..where you have difficulty getting the head of the paint brush into those Nooks and Crannies..
    Well,,not anymore..I was put onto "Tappered Round Brushes"
    Yep..they are a round 25mm brush tapered to a point.
    These brushes make getting to those difficult places..cornices..corner joins, tight spots, around bolts, screws..nearly a thing of the past.
    The job of "cutting in"..wall and ceiling cornice joins...a breeze and a lot more cleaner.

    These brushes aren't cheap..but they keep their bristle shape, light and well balanced in the hand..and especially easy to use in the hand "pencil writing" position..
    They make the difficult bits involved with DIY painting just that bit easier.
    I'm not getting too carried away...
    I still don't like DIY painting..
    I've got to get dragged "kicking and screaming" to do it.

  • #2
    Interesting, cheers. I'll file that away for the next time I'm unable to put off painting any further


    • #3
      Ahhh in a past life I did that shit for 30 years.

      We would use brushes $50-$60 evry day. The trick is to buy better than half decent brush to start with, then look after it. Thees days they are all synthetic but a 50mm square set long handle is a good allrounder for the internal hack. Wet the thing and flick it out before you start, and wash it out and wire brush it during the day if it starts to gunk up.

      Don't work from the stock tin, buy a second 4lt pot and put 1lt of paint in it. Dunk it in the paint, tap it on the side of that pot, then put it on like your not paying for it. That is most hacks unknown dilemma, they are too skinny on the paint. Slap it on, spread it out, move on.

      When you done, wipe you working pot out well and let it dry. Get a tin of some sort, put your brush in it, fill it with water till almost the feral (bit where the brush hairs meet the metal), then prop the tin on an angle so the tin supports the brush. Wash out well in the morning and use the wire brush. If you have a comb give it one off them as well.
      Soaking it over night makes it heaps quicker to clean. Using a tin, pot, jar whatever on an angle supports the brush over night to stop the bristles from deforming. You can multi stack brushes if required.
      If you have a mishap and the bristle are bent, boil the jug and put the brush in hot water for a few seconds, then give it a comb.

      Glad its you and not me. But my time is coming as we are looking to renovate, and dopy me has said I'll do the painting.


      • #4
        As an old amateur (home) painter I have found the following:

        As Jaffles says never work out of the 4/10 litre container, decant into a small container which you can then thin sparingly as the working temp. etc varies. Less spill quantity and less to discard if something goes wrong, contamination or too thin.

        Drill a hole through the brush handle to suspend, on a wire, the brush in solvent or water so that the bristles don't deform.

        Avoid cheap synthetic brushes as the fibres can be too fine and they easily clump up making your finish unavoidably streaky.

        There are paint additives that make the paint flow off the brush beautifully, I think one is called Prepsol, another product was normally used for soaking and freeing a rusted nut bolt. An "old" professional can comment on this usage.

        Paint manufacturers periodically change their formulas. E.G. 20 years ago Dulux made a beautiful flowing Weathershield, today it is pretty ordinary. They also changed the base and tints for a colour. I suspect it is possible that manufacturers are making the "same" product but adjusting it to suit the retail price setting of the retailer.

        This is a personal comment, I have found that my local Bunnings paint people, they have been there for 20 odd years, are well trained and very helpful with tinting etc.
        Pajero NX GLX MY17, OEM Rubber mats, OEM Towbar and tongue, After market Rev. Sensors, MSA4x4 seat covers.

        Remember the science demonstration of a table covered with mouse traps loaded with ping pong balls and the teacher drops a ping pong ball into the middle.
        Well, the ball has been dropped.


        • #5
          Prepsol is a cleaner, removes wax and grease before painting. Floetroll is an additive to make the paint slide better and keep a wet edge for longer. Yeh...maybe some benefit in it. You can also get hot weather retarder but 10% water will achieve the same if you are finding it too think.

          I can't say with any technical proof, but my 30 years paint has become a lot less for more. Water based was developed and sold on its environmentally better properties, but its still a can of chemicals being washed out on the lawn, sink, or elsewhere. No different to mineral really, however water based has far less skin irritations and respiratory issues. So perhaps as water is cheaper than solvent to make, store, and use, along with OH litigation law developing 30-40 years ago a decision was made to go environmental water. Still water based has been a good thing, but just doesn't seem to have the guts it once did. Certainly in the exterior premium ranges.

          A tin of paint is largely water, with pigments, binders, driers or retarders, and a few there chemicals, but mostly water. The said companies paint of which I was an accredited disciple for many years slowly got thinner, with less coverage, longer to clean out, more expansive, and still cracked and faded. Of course warranty markets 10 years but one has to follow a pretty strict maintenance program and it will always come back to the old story, the applicator didn't prep the surface correctly. Even if you are successful with warranty you will only get paint, yes expansive but nothing on the labour.

          Certainly companies play with technology, in the mid 80s to late 90s it was all about stretch, they made it so stretchy it could not be repaired, just kept peeling and stretching. No hard edge could be made. So they have pulled that back. Tinters which make the colours have also changed. They have moved to synthetic as natural was "to expansive". But the synthetic doesn't have the longevity to natural.

          When I was an apprentice the college teacher who had worked for a major company, told us at the time 4Lt was selling for $35, it cost $4 to make including the tin. Some years later I have stood next to a bloke at the trade counter who was from a sizeable company, he paid $65 for a 10lt when i was paying $110, retail was $135. So with so much profit its shame the paint isn't better. I have been told they can make it last 20 years if they want, but choose not to for obvious reasons. However in my day I have met enough old blokes who painted their house themselves 15 to 20 years ago before I got there and its still pretty good externally.

          We moved to a NZ company as their tins of paint were significantly heavier to others so had less water. But also covered better, dried faster, washed out better, didn't picture frame and generally did what you want paint to do. I feel its a superior product generally across the range but sadly the darker colours still fade in a short period of time externally. Maybe 3 years.

          My general advice is look at trade ranges, they are not bad or have anything wrong with them but they are usually cheaper. They are usually the previous formula and some can be even 2 or more formulas before the current. Trade don't buy the marketing as much as the public, and the public home renovator is where all the money is. Why do Dulux always use dog with a family and never have trade adds? Why do Bunnings put paint as the first set of isles you walk into when you enter the store. You pay a shameful premium for the latest and greatest.

          If you want the cleanable interior low sheen that has some truth to it, then look at Resene Space Coat interior water based low sheen enamel. It goes on like low sheen, looks like low sheen, but settles like enamel. Thats why it cleanable. Yes its pricey as all paint is, but you if wan't to know what an old pro uses on his own house, its Resene.


          • #6
            Hi Jaffles,
            Great feedback on my comment, either amateur or pro there is always something to learn.
            Pajero NX GLX MY17, OEM Rubber mats, OEM Towbar and tongue, After market Rev. Sensors, MSA4x4 seat covers.

            Remember the science demonstration of a table covered with mouse traps loaded with ping pong balls and the teacher drops a ping pong ball into the middle.
            Well, the ball has been dropped.


            • #7
              I take my hat off to you pro painters..all the tips and tricks you blokes have up your sleeve...
              No wonder you blokes make it look easy..


              • #8
                It seems iv'e been painting my house for 40 years, the walls/ceiling don't actually get dirty in my place. They just get repainted. Recently replaced half the house from carpet to hybrid flooring, so the missus wanted that area repainted. So after all that she now wants the other half painted the same, I mean there is only 2 shades difference in the tint. FFS. I'm now wondering if the foundations can carry 6 re-coats of paint over those years. LOL. By the way I used to cut in with a 4 inch brush.


                • #9
                  The painters who painted interior at work, i like thought you had to wash all these walls down with sugar soap bla bla bla.

                  What they advised me & they paint all day long, was to use Dulux paint & wash me skirting boards if dirty, patch the walls & any cracks hanger holes, make sure wipe any dust off & go nutz

                  Unless they were really badly soiled no need to wash the walls, quick wipe & go for my life, safe bet in his mind was use Dulux paint as it works well & was a good brew.

                  I locked his advice in, as he doesn't advertise & has plenty of work, so it must work ok.

                  From memory think he said would cost $600ish for paint if i did it myself & about $3500 to $4000 if they came, painted interior for me
                  Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table


                  Matched content