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NP advice for lap of Aus

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  • NP advice for lap of Aus

    Hey Everyone,

    After many hours of searching through this forum the NP diesel Pajero is currently top of my shortlist for a car upgrade. My partner and I are currently on a lap of Australia and hoping to upgrade to a Pajero at some point and go back to all the wonderful places we will currently miss Kimberleys, Dampier Peninsula, Cape Peron, Pilbara region, Cape York etc.

    Looking to initially spend max 20k 10-15 on an np Pajero and 5 to get it ready for off-road.

    I am aware of all common problems timing chain guide, egr, diesel pump etc

    My two question based of the current market are

    is a diesel NP at around 15k with 250-300k on the clock worth it, we will put probably 50k on it over a year or two then use as weekend camper when finished. Or should we up our budget a little and look for something newer or with less kms?

    Secondly will AT tyres, aftermarket suspension with lift, comms, bash plates and aux tank be enough to get buy until we can afford more mods? We currently have roof top dual battery rear drawers and all those goodies we will transfer over. Probably be pushing fairly close to GVM but hoping 5k spent after purchasing the car will be enough to get it on the road and touring ready. Just looking for some buying advice based on current market.

  • #2
    Manual or auto?
    Pajero NX MY21 GLS

    Comment


    • #3
      Ahh sorry forgot to include that. Looking at auto preferably as will be used for touring the whole county and whilst I can drive manual I wouldn’t say I’m great at it.

      Comment


      • #4
        https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...SSE-AD-4102144

        Not ready to buy yet but was thinking something along the lines of this. Clean canvas hopefully hasn’t been off-road so can add what I like to it and not have to change things out or risk dodgy DIY jobs like wiring etc.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Dbraesmith View Post
          https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...SSE-AD-4102144

          Not ready to buy yet but was thinking something along the lines of this. Clean canvas hopefully hasn’t been off-road so can add what I like to it and not have to change things out or risk dodgy DIY jobs like wiring etc.
          I would also look for a car that has no towbar or a car that has only done light irregular towing.
          Simply question of current owner, ask if they think it would be ok if you towed a light camper trailer 1.5T?
          If it has done heavy towing then the owner will be proud of the Pajero's achievements, "Mate, it has towed 2.5T around Australia twice so no problems", this is a good time to say thanks but no thanks. Most high millage auto's than have done a lot of towing can be time bombs and expensive to fix.


          OJ.
          2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
          MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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          • #6
            Out of interest, what are you upgrading from and why now while you are in the middle of a trip.
            Don't get me wrong as the Paj is a good 4wd and does very well for what it is.
            You know what you are currently driving and buying a 2nd hand 4wd can lead to buying new problems so I'm thinking that an update/refresh of what you've got at the moment might be a better value option.
            2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
            2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the tip old jack didn’t think of that one.

              dhula we are currently driving a Toyota Kluger AWD and looking to move to a 4wd as we are on no timeframe young no kids will stop do work stints and probably travel around the country for the next few years. We have family dotted around Australia to stay with while we upgrade and the biggest reason to upgrade is our car can’t get where we want to go, Gibb river road, cape York, Francis Peron, Dirk Hartog island, Fraser Island, Davenport ranges, Dampier peninsula. The list keeps getting bigger off all the places we wish to get to and simply need a 4wd to achieve.

              The kluger has little to no aftermarket support in terms of even finding a solution to get it more places. It has been great but we love the few remote places we have been able to get to so far and want more of that and most bucket list destinations require a 4wd.

              We would have saved longer and loved to get a 4wd but it was a know or never moment when we left had to take the opportunity.

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              • #8
                If the Kluger has had enough room and you do not want to tow, then for $15K to $18K you can get a 10 year old PB Challenger Auto with less than 200,000kms on the clock.
                Here is a tidy example, no towbar and $17K!

                The PB/PC Challenger will go all the places you have mentioned and more!

                OJ.
                2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yeah the kluger has been fine for room, granted we took the second row seats out and built a drawer system in the back but I think something of similar size with some
                  careful planning and we could definitely make it work.

                  link didn’t work properly but I’ll go check them out.

                  whilst on the topic of other cars. Are pathfinders any good? I think I remember seeing them under 200k on the clock reasonably priced.

                  we have no favourite car or anything we really want just something that can get all said places, good on fuel, reliable, hold all our gear plus rooftop tent, decently comfortable on road also.

                  we have no 4wding experience as such just off roading
                  Oodnadatta track, flinders ranges, mereenie loop. We certainly
                  arent looking for the toughest 4wd out there and open to any suggestions.

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                  • #10
                    Try this link.
                    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...6995925/?Cr=10

                    On extended trips of outback touring and desert crossings I remove the 2nd row of seats and have some storage boxes that bolt into the seat mounts. This keeps ll the weight low and spread evenly so we do not exceed the axle load limits but are 2860kg which is 150kg above GVM. EHD suspension means full touring weight we are still 10mm to 15mm higher ride height than factory empty standard.

                    A diesel R51 Pathfinder has good amount room, but very average build quality.

                    Advantage of buying a Mitsubishi is you have free access to the worlds largest online forum

                    OJ.
                    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah that’s loaded know.

                      okay good to know will certainly add the car to the shortlist.

                      so basically it seems to me that yeah I could get a Pajero for under $15k with high mileage but be looking at expensive fix costs down the track.

                      or spend a bit more and look for a challenger/ Pajero with around 200k on the odo and no towing or very light towing done and save money in the long run

                      would this sound about right? Looking to really narrow in my search and figure out what kind of funds we need to upgrade

                      There are some Pajeros around 19k without tow bars etc at 200k on the odo would something like this be a better option to look at?

                      https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...SSE-AD-7248074

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dbraesmith View Post
                        Yeah that’s loaded know.

                        okay good to know will certainly add the car to the shortlist.

                        so basically it seems to me that yeah I could get a Pajero for under $15k with high mileage but be looking at expensive fix costs down the track.

                        or spend a bit more and look for a challenger/ Pajero with around 200k on the odo and no towing or very light towing done and save money in the long run

                        would this sound about right? Looking to really narrow in my search and figure out what kind of funds we need to upgrade

                        There are some Pajeros around 19k without tow bars etc at 200k on the odo would something like this be a better option to look at?

                        https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...SSE-AD-7248074
                        All things being equal, a newer car that has done less work is less likely to give you problems, provided it has a full & correct service history and hasn't been abused.

                        I think you are wise to look at NT (& NW) models like this, as they are generally trouble free if looked after & serviced properly. MY09 models have a passive DPF, but this doesn't appear to cause issues. MY10 onwards do not have a DPF (until MY17 when they re-appeared). Check for rust at top of side door frames (near/under the seal) & that recalls have been completed (use the MMAL website & VIN).

                        NS (autos only) had a DPF that has caused grief for some people, so I'd try to avoid these
                        Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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                        • #13
                          Generally the lower the kms and the fewer the owners the better. I would much prefer to but a 2nd car with 1 or 2 owners and 200,000kms than 150,000kms and 4 or 5 owners. People tend to keep reliable cars!

                          OJ.
                          2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                          MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ok

                            Thanks so much for your input. Much things to consider love the tip about finding out if has done a lot of towing and also checking how many previous owners.

                            Think I will be looking at NT/ NW and challengers and certainly considering holding at longer and getting higher funds to hopefully avoid less problems

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