body lift

[dragon eyes]

Hi all just a quicky on my 1995 wagon
does anyone known how to do a body lift of 2-3 inch
any help would be great
dragon eyes

come on guys a little help please
any help

[barndog]

Hi all just a quicky on my 1995 wagon
does anyone known how to do a body lift of 2-3 inch
any help would be great
dragon eyes

come on guys a little help please
any help

What is your reason for wanting a body lift? If you're just after a bit more height (that tuff look) you would benefit more from a suspension upgrade and slightly larger tyres. This will raise your wagon and give you better ground clearence. The body lift only raises the body up from the chassis, while leaving the ground clearence exactly the same. With a body lift you may have to extend your brakelines, wiring, and whatever else runs between the body and the chassis.
I have fitted a 1 inch body lift to my hilux and the only problem i had was the transfer lever hitting the tunnel and on big bumps the lever would jump from 4H to 2H, but after some reshaping seems to be fine! A friend of mine lifted a hilux 2 inches and had to extend a couple of things. Unless you have access to a hoist, i would not try the lift yourself, my hilux was awkward and fairly heavy, and the hilux body is 2 seperate pieces. The wagon body is 1 whole piece, also be carefull how high you go. Rumour has it that an increase of more than 2 inches from standard ride height could mean the vehicle is unroadworthy and may effect insurance.
Probably not a bad idea to find out, a decent Fourby accessories dealer might be able to help, they can provide the kits to do the body lift.
Hope this helps?

[nj swb]

Hi all just a quicky on my 1995 wagon
does anyone known how to do a body lift of 2-3 inch
any help would be great
dragon eyes

come on guys a little help please
any help

A 2" body lift on a Paj isn't as hard as on some other vehicles - and 2" is as far as most states will allow. But I do agree with the question above - why?

I lifted mine because I wanted to install a long range tank, and the body lift allowed me to fit a larger one. The 33" tyres were a bonus. If you simply want larger tyres, what engine do you have? By 1995 I thought everything was 3.5 or 2.8, which has the "factory body lift" and will run 33s already.

If you decide to proceed, it's relatively straight forward. Suitable lift blocks (I recommend alloy - authorities may want to argue about polymer blocks), longer high tensile (8.8) bolts, nyloc nuts, suitable washers (standard bolts are metric fine which can be harder to find - new nuts means you can use standard M10 threads.) Nothing needs lengthening or replacing; remove the lower part of the radiator fan shroud. The front brake lines need some attention as you lift - have a good look first, you'll figure it out. Use two or three jacks & some boards to spread the load on the floor. Lift one side at a time - slow and steady, it's not a race. The front and rear bumpers will need to be modified, it may be a good idea to remove the rear bumper before you start. While you're in that area, check out the mud flaps and the fuel tank filler hose - again, it's not hard to see what needs to be done.

If you've got the 3.0 manual you'll need to bend your transfer lever, and/or attack the hole in the floor. (My neighbour bent mine cold.) I believe auto transfers don't have an issue, but I could be wrong. NFI about transfers for the 3.5/2.8.

The radiator hoses may need to be "released" a little - I missed this, and ended up doing a roadside hose change between Innamincka and Coongie - it was a good excuse to stop for a beer.

Good luck,

Scott

[dragon eyes]

thanks guys
the rig is getting s 2 inch sup lift
will rethink the body lift at a later date
again thank for all the help

Peter