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Shock in coil over strut

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  • Shock in coil over strut

    Is there a difinitive way to tell if a shock is gone in a a coil over strut in situ?

    I feel like my front passenger shock may have gone.
    Seem to notice front left, seem to feel as through it dips or sinks down more on the left when I turn hard right, for example at moderate speed turning right at a round about.

    Fwiw I have a two inch or there about left with Lovells springs and aussie ryder twin tube has shocks, and would have at least 70 thousand kms on them.
    NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

    Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

  • #2
    Would standing on each end of the bullbar and giving it a good bouncing give you an indication?? If the two sides are different, it's a start

    Oops seems you don't have a bullbar trying to bounce each front corner (somehow) may still help
    Last edited by Two Emms; 17-11-20, 04:59 PM. Reason: Correction
    2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent 200 catch can, Boos bash plates (full set), Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, Titan fridge slide, Kings springs, Dunlop ATG3s, Auto-mate, Ultragauge, Uniden 8080s, more to come...

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Two Emms View Post
      Would standing on each end of the bullbar and giving it a good bouncing give you an indication?? If the two sides are different, it's a start

      Oops seems you don't have a bullbar trying to bounce each front corner (somehow) may still help
      I do have a alloy bar, and have tried doing that. But haven't been able to tell, I think they're may be a difference in the rebound but I'm not certain.

      NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

      Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

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      • #4
        Find a quiet safe location, drive at 20kph in a straight line and brake hard to a stop, observe if one side or both side dip down and bounce back and continue to bounce. A good strut should allow the front suspension to compress and then extend/recover in a controlled manner. If the suspension has repeated oscillations (bounces) then the strut is not doing the dampening required.

        OJ.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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        • #5
          At 70k kms and depending on the type of driving you've been doing then IMO the shocks are getting close to if not at replacement time.

          There are a couple of ways to check if your shocks are working or are way shagged.
          • OJ's suggestion is the easiest but might not give you easy to understand results due to being both front at the same time and one side might supplement the other. A really worn/stuffed shock compared to the other will stand out like dogs balls tho
          • You can bounce each corner as hard as you can, closest you can to the wheel is best and at least 4x good bounces, and release. The corner should stop bouncing after no more than 1.5 bounces - you bounce it, when it's at the bottom you let go, the corner should come back up aprox the same as what it went down and then come down 1/2 that. If it's more than 1.5 times then your shocks are suspect and would be on the cards to be replaced.
          • You can drive over corrugations for a while and then check how hot the shocks get. The colder one compared to the others means something is not quite right. The boiling/burning one compared to the others means something is not quite right.
          • You can take it to a specialist suspension place to have them checked. Somewhere like Pedders have a drive on shock tester but not sure if theirs will do HD suspension or 4wd's. Be sus of the results as Pedders are known to up-sell for profit
          2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
          2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the advise guys., I'll try some of that put.
            NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

            Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

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            • #7
              Thought I should up date this.

              ​​​​​​I was positive from the bounce test but thought I noticed a difference on the front left, plus with the other indicators when driving.

              So I order a pair of front shocks and pulled the front strut assemblies out, took them to a mechanical shop to compress the spring ans swap shocks out.
              Picked the assemblies back up with the old struts.
              One of the old shocks, the rebound had totally gone.

              Ride is much better now.
              NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

              Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

              Comment

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