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Tighten steering on NG Superwagon

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  • Tighten steering on NG Superwagon

    The steering is a bit loose on our Superwagon and I want to tighten it up. Is this a case of new bushes all round at the front?

    I have gotten a quote for these bushes:
    lower control arm bushes..
    Steering Damper bushes..
    Idler arm bushes..
    Sway bar bushes..

    Apparently that's all I'll need. Is there any other steering component that I may want to refresh while I"m at it? On my BA the lower control arm is one unit that gets replaced, is there something like that on the Pajero, or is just the bush ok?

    It's done 270k odd, but has a new motor so I'd like to make it drive better.

    If I can ever find a decent steering wheel, I'd change that too. The curse of a brown interior.

  • #2
    you could also have a look at the tie rod ends which may have developed a bit of slop by now, and remember that the steering box itself has adjustment on it. Be careful with the latter, it's important not to overtighten it. Try to find a workshop manual, online if you haven't got one already.

    Gaz
    2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.

    Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.

    My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.

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    • #3
      Do the tie rod ends need replacing or just tightening?

      Would the steering box be shagged by now, or do you think it can be adjusted?

      Thanx

      Vic

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      • #4
        tie rod ends aren't adjustable for wear; if they are loose, then replacement is the only option.

        steering box should only need adjustment - assuming it has not been overtightened (and thus caused to wear prematurely) at some stage of its life.

        I recall when I used to adjust mine (current Paj has rack and pinion, so no steering box as such), the instruction was to adjust so that there is a minimal increase at the centre point (ie of lock to lock) in the effort required to turn the steering wheel.

        Gaz
        2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.

        Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.

        My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.

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        • #5
          ok, so I should look at getting new tie rod ends? anything else that could do with replacement to sharpen the steering?

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          • #6
            well I wouldn't recommend getting new ones unless you think the old ones have a bit of wear. Mind you I don't know what they cost, so if the price is not too high..... Also can't recall how many of them that model has, but maybe just check them for wear and replace any that seem to have a bit of play. In general they should feel firm if you grip the tie rod and exert plenty of pressure, trying to induce movement in them. Any movement probably means replacement.

            Gaz
            2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.

            Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.

            My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.

            Comment


            • #7
              Well a mechanic I trust has had a look and says I needn't do any of the bushes, they are ok, but recommends doing lower and upper ball joints, the tie rod ends and idler arms.

              The parts themselves are all relatively cheap, the problem with the ball joints is that the front suspension (torsion bar, who knew I try to avoid that system) needs to be dropped and is big on labour, to the tune of $450 a side, just for labour for each ball joint.

              He recommends doing the tie rod ends, idler amrs and adjust the steering box, and see how that goes. That's like a bit less than $450 all up, including wheel alignment.

              I could die thinking how much the ball joint work is worth. We had an Integra with torsion suspension and wanted to lower it, but it was too hard to get it done right, not enough adjustment to work with. Not that lowering is an issue with the Pajero.

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