Front drive shaft boot hole

[keith h]

I've just noticed a small hole in my left hand front outer drive shaft boot on my NL. Creamy white grease is coming out and splattering around the wheel arch.

Is it worth stripping everything to replace the boot on an other wise fine drive shaft?
Or should I leave i and wait till the drive shaft shows some signs of wear and then go the rebuilt drive shaft option?

Pros and cons please anyone?

[6G74]

I've just noticed a small hole in my left hand front outer drive shaft boot on my NL. Creamy white grease is coming out and splattering around the wheel arch.

Is it worth stripping everything to replace the boot on an other wise fine drive shaft?
Or should I leave i and wait till the drive shaft shows some signs of wear and then go the rebuilt drive shaft option?

Pros and cons please anyone?

Unless you have signs of wear atm - you would replace the boot without question....

[keith h]

Unless you have signs of wear atm - you would replace the boot without question....

Thanks 6G74. It's very valuable to have independent advice.

[bernardpotatoe]

I may be wrong, but the outside boot (closest to wheel) cannot be replaced as a unit, therfore the whole CV needs to be done. I have done the CV boot on the inside on my old NL. Not a hard job except for getting the upper ball joint out of the wishbone, need to use one the fork shaped wedges to force it apart, took a lot of pressure (hitting with hammer!) and damaged the ball joint, so repair involved ball joint and CV cover, or in your case maybee complete CV. I may not be correct, so someone else may coment re new boot.

[6G74]

I may be wrong, but the outside boot (closest to wheel) cannot be replaced as a unit, therfore the whole CV needs to be done. I have done the CV boot on the inside on my old NL. Not a hard job except for getting the upper ball joint out of the wishbone, need to use one the fork shaped wedges to force it apart, took a lot of pressure (hitting with hammer!) and damaged the ball joint, so repair involved ball joint and CV cover, or in your case maybee complete CV. I may not be correct, so someone else may coment re new boot.

Once the cv is removed, it does need to be separated in order to get to the boot - this is no problem though.... imagine if the whole cv needed to be replaced each time someone broke a boot... they are 1k +.... each...... If done correctly, you wont damage the ball joint, whole job will cost you about 40buks a side ( you would do both boots whilst your at it due to the labour)

[keith h]

I've been quoted "about $70" to replace the front left outer boot. From a place recommended on the "old forum". I thought that recommended repairers thread would have been retained as an FAQ. I couldn't find it.

[MITSIR]

Fork Type Ball joint seperators should only be used if your needing to replace the Ball joint as the fork damages the Rubber on the ball joint. Another Ball joint sepeartor is the Scissor type, which is allot easier and doesn't require any hammers to seperate the Ball joint.

A good pair of thick head hammers always does the Job for me. I try to Put one hammer on one side and hit as hard as I can on the other side. A few times and its off. Take in mind that I have the Lower arm supported by a jack aswell to take the tension of the Ball joint.

also if the Original Boot is still intact while replacing the other, I would personally leave it as the CV Boots that you pruchase are not as durable as the original ones.

When comparing the Original Rubber boot from the ones you buy from a shop that cost $15 the thickness is allot thicker. Take in mind that if you buy a Original Mitsubishi Boot, It will cost you around $150.

I have replaced my inner CV boot and it only lasted me 3 months (This has a role of cranking the Torsion up 2"). If anyone has come accross much durable CV boots, It will be nice to find out where you have got it from. I purchase mine at CBC bearings.