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Manual Challenger overheating

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  • Manual Challenger overheating

    Recently I've been having a problem after towing the boat or long highway stints when I stop the car and turn the engine off the surge tank overflows and the coolant in there starts boiling!! It's happened twice so far. Then as it cools the coolant gets sucked back out of the surge tank and I'm left with and empty surge tank. All this time the temp gauge doesn't move off halfway. I've been constantly monitring it since it happened the first time and nothing unusual on the gauge. It starts cold and comes up to temp as normal and then stays halfway. The engine runs fine elsewise and it only seems to happens when it been worked a bit hard. Any ideas?

    Saw the other posts about the autos but this is a manual. This has actually only started since I had the gearbox rebuilt a few weeks ago but I assume it is unrelated?

    thanks for any advice
    2014 NW GLX
    ----------------------------------------------
    Previously: 98 Challenger, 2 inch lift, koni shocks, ARB bullbar, Lightforce 240 Blitz, redarc dual battery sys, UHF, bushman fridge, Wrangler ATR's

  • #2
    i would start with checking the thermostat to make sure it opens and closes off correctly, then flush the radiator out and re fill with fresh coolant, also check main hoses as one could be very soft causing a collapse in the hose. there is a good chance also that there is blockage in the cylinder head water journals which will cause this over heat problem when the engine is reving higher than around town speeds. start with the simple tests first.
    NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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    • #3
      First place i would look is your radiator cap - failing then, then thermostat, radiator and clutch fan.

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      • #4
        After a period of higher than normal load there is a fair amount of heat that will soak from the engine into the coolant system ..... ..the temperature of the coolant and the internal pressure in the coolant circuit will rise... with a 100kPa cap the boiling temp will be around 120C. As the radiator cap releases (as it should) due to the pressure in the cooling circuit the coolant flows to the overflow bottle. However of course it is now not under pressure but it's temperature is above boiling point and it boils. Which is exactly why you don't undo your radiator cap when the engine is hot. Release of pressure lowers boiling point and radiator coolant boils out and burns the hand!!

        If you are not over heating while driving i wouldn't be too worried. Just make sure you don't have too much coolant in the overflow bottle to start with. On the minimum when cold is a good starting point.

        Another idea ... when you have pulled up after high speed or a heavy tow .. let the engine idle for 5 minutes before switch off. If the coolant system is in good shape the fan should drop the coolant temp and stop the boiling ...

        and finally for your own peace of mind it wouldn't hurt to measure the operating temp of the cooling system with an independant gauge ...
        Last edited by simoncurly; 15-02-08, 12:29 PM. Reason: spelling

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        • #5
          Radiator cap...
          Cheers, John.
          LC200 V8 goodness

          MY12 LC200 GXL 4.5Lt V8 twin turbo, GVM upgrade, ARB bar, Warn winch, Outback Acc rear bar and dual carrier, TJM sidesteps, Bushskinz, Long Ranger 180Lt tank, Black Widow drawers, cargo barrier, Polaris Awning, +++
          Ex - NM auto, 2"Kings, Bilsteins, Buckshots, Wildcat headers, 2.75" Mandrel bent exhaust, Injected LPG, Smartbar, Scraper bar, Bushskinz, Custom steps, Dual Batteries, Breathers, Black Widow drawers, Polaris Awning.

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          • #6
            as mrbitchi said which is dead right, if the radiator cap rubber or even the spring has gone this will definetly account for excess water being forced into the overflow tank plus returned to the radiator. so instead of this valve so to speak being totally closed , its open.
            NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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            • #7
              thanks for responses, yeah was intending to start with the cap. When it first happened I let the car cool down and took the cap off and it was actually slightly corroded in place, took a bit of force to remove it. Obviously hadn't been removed for some time. I was 2 hours from anywhere when it happened so I had to just put tap water I had with me in it. Thought I would change the cap, flush the radiotor and change the coolant to start with, just thought I'd see if maybe something more sinister might be lurking. Is there an easy way to tell if the thermo fan is working, it's spinning when I pull up but then it's always spinning?

              What is the operating temp of the coolant meant to be? I read in the manual the thermostat is supposed to open around 88degrees so obviously higher than that. I figured it was boiling in the bottle because of the reduced pressure but the coolant must still be over 100 degrees. I thought that might be a bit high still.

              I live in the pilbara WA, and the days it happened was midday around 40 degrees so probably pushing cooling system to limit. Never had a problem before though.
              2014 NW GLX
              ----------------------------------------------
              Previously: 98 Challenger, 2 inch lift, koni shocks, ARB bullbar, Lightforce 240 Blitz, redarc dual battery sys, UHF, bushman fridge, Wrangler ATR's

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cookie View Post
                When it first happened I let the car cool down and took the cap off and it was actually slightly corroded in place, took a bit of force to remove it. Obviously hadn't been removed for some time.

                I live in the pilbara WA, and the days it happened was midday around 40 degrees so probably pushing cooling system to limit. Never had a problem before though.
                Might be time to give the system a good flush....after you get your new cap.
                Dave
                NX Pampas Cat GLS MY16
                Member 1228 Pajero Club

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