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Rear suspension replacement tips..

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  • Rear suspension replacement tips..

    Is there anything i should know about before or during the replacement of my springs in the rear of my 2010 PB Challenger?

    I've got some new springs and the Pedders bump stops to install.


    Any tips/tricks would be appreciated.

  • #2
    Hi Highace,

    The PA/PB/PC Challengers and Pajero Sports all share the same rear suspension and I have removed and refitted coils several times.
    The first few times I used spring compressors that I had to modify but I found a way of changing coils without the use spring compressors.

    Tip; give the threaded end of the lower rear shocker mount bolts a spray with Inox or similar a few days before tackling the job as these exposed threads can corrode up and make the bolt hard to undo.

    It has been a while since I have done this job, so by memory this is what I did.
    This is the procedure I use when I do not have access to a hoist, but you do need a trolley jack as the factory jack does not compress enough, and an axle stand capable of supporting 600kgs at 550mm high.

    1.Do only 1 side at a time, handbrake ON, spray the thread bolt end again with Inox or similar, then loosen the lower rear shocker mount bolt, not the nut as it is welded onto the mount so undo from the bolt head, and then loosen the wheel nuts.
    2. Using a trolley jack, jack from under the axle, jack the car up until the tyre is about 150mm off the ground, insert axle stand under the chassis rail and not the axle of suspension arms.
    2. Remove wheel, take note of the measurements of the sway bar connection and then disconnect sway bar link from suspension arm.
    3. Remove the axle articulation bump stop located on the chassis rail inline with the axle.
    4. Lower the trolley jack down until the shocker is at full extension, then remove lower shocker mount bolt.
    5 Loosen the brake line attachment clamps on the rigid section of the brake lines so when you lower the trolley jack further the flexible brake lines do not become tight.
    6. Slowly lower the trolley jack, keeping a close eye on the brake lines, until the coil is dislodged and can be removed from the wheel well side.
    7. Remove the coil and rubber assist cone.
    8. Reverse procedure, making sure when the new coil is fitted it has about 15mm gap between the end of the lower coil wind wire and the rebate in the coils pad on the axle housing. Reue the attachment bolt from the rubber cone, I also use a larger diameter thick washer under the bolt head, from memory the spacer sleeve is not required when fitting the Peddar 5899 cones.

    First side allow about an hour to an hour and a half if it is your first time doing this job, the second side will be a bit quicker because you know what you are doing.

    Only tighten the lower shocker mount bolt one the weight of the vehicle is back on the wheels.

    Hope I haven't missed anything.

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks a lot for the info!

      Awesome help.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by old Jack View Post
        Hi Highace,

        The PA/PB/PC Challengers and Pajero Sports all share the same rear suspension and I have removed and refitted coils several times.
        The first few times I used spring compressors that I had to modify but I found a way of changing coils without the use spring compressors.

        Tip; give the threaded end of the lower rear shocker mount bolts a spray with Inox or similar a few days before tackling the job as these exposed threads can corrode up and make the bolt hard to undo.

        It has been a while since I have done this job, so by memory this is what I did.
        This is the procedure I use when I do not have access to a hoist, but you do need a trolley jack as the factory jack does not compress enough, and an axle stand capable of supporting 600kgs at 550mm high.

        1.Do only 1 side at a time, handbrake ON, spray the thread bolt end again with Inox or similar, then loosen the lower rear shocker mount bolt, not the nut as it is welded onto the mount so undo from the bolt head, and then loosen the wheel nuts.
        2. Using a trolley jack, jack from under the axle, jack the car up until the tyre is about 150mm off the ground, insert axle stand under the chassis rail and not the axle of suspension arms.
        2. Remove wheel, take note of the measurements of the sway bar connection and then disconnect sway bar link from suspension arm.
        3. Remove the axle articulation bump stop located on the chassis rail inline with the axle.
        4. Lower the trolley jack down until the shocker is at full extension, then remove lower shocker mount bolt.
        5 Loosen the brake line attachment clamps on the rigid section of the brake lines so when you lower the trolley jack further the flexible brake lines do not become tight.
        6. Slowly lower the trolley jack, keeping a close eye on the brake lines, until the coil is dislodged and can be removed from the wheel well side.
        7. Remove the coil and rubber assist cone.
        8. Reverse procedure, making sure when the new coil is fitted it has about 15mm gap between the end of the lower coil wind wire and the rebate in the coils pad on the axle housing. Reue the attachment bolt from the rubber cone, I also use a larger diameter thick washer under the bolt head, from memory the spacer sleeve is not required when fitting the Peddar 5899 cones.

        First side allow about an hour to an hour and a half if it is your first time doing this job, the second side will be a bit quicker because you know what you are doing.

        Only tighten the lower shocker mount bolt one the weight of the vehicle is back on the wheels.

        Hope I haven't missed anything.

        OJ.
        OJ,

        When we discussed this procedure previously there was mention of loosening the forward bolt on each trailing arm and a bolt on the panhard rod before the suspension was fully extended.

        This was in case the over-extension of the suspension during coil changeout happened to lead to tearing of the moulded/bonded bushes at those points.

        Maybe not an issue, but I'd rather loosen a few bolts than have to replace bushe(s).

        Then place the weight of the vehicle back on the suspension before tightening those bolts (200Nm or thereabouts?).
        Kingbrown
        Valued Member
        Last edited by Kingbrown; 1 week ago.
        2012 PB Challenger LS Manual

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Kingbrown View Post

          OJ,

          When we discussed this procedure previously there was mention of loosening the forward bolt on each trailing arm and a bolt on the panhard rod before the suspension was fully extended.

          This was in case the over-extension of the suspension during coil changeout happened to lead to tearing of the moulded/bonded bushes at those points.

          Maybe not an issue, but I'd rather loosen a few bolts than have to replace bushe(s).

          Then place the weight of the vehicle back on the suspension before tightening those bolts (200Nm or thereabouts?).
          Correct KB thanks for pointing that out, I remember the conversation now. It adds about another 15 minutes to the job and is a good precautionary measure especially if the coils are over 400mm in free length.

          OJ.
          2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
          MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

          Comment

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