Below Nav Bar Ad Module

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Driving on beach/sand

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Driving on beach/sand

    Being a novice 4x4'er are there any problems/things one should do prior to driving a Challenger on sand/beaches (not directly in any salt water/spray). Reading the manual it seems Mitsubishi dont cover damage/failures caused by sand but there is usually sand in most gravel/mud anyway. Have studied the underneath of the Challenger and it seems extremely well sealed everywhere and a good hose off underneath afterwoods would that be all it needs? Anyone have failures of seals/bearings caused by sand or are all modern 4x4's protected from this?
    Thanks
    2012 LS Charcoal Auto Tint Nudge, BFG AT TA. Ugly Mitsu Tow Bar.

  • #2
    Drop your tyre pressure to about 20psi and turn off your traction control.

    Then enjoy.
    MY17 Triton GLX Plus with Mitsubishi Canopy. Keeping it light and simple. 265/70/16 Nitto's, Bilstien shocks, Kings Springs front, Formula leafs rear, ECB nudge bar, Ligjtforce 170's, twin batteries and a ARB fridge.

    Comment


    • #3
      Put her in low range as well. Don't worry about sand. Just enjoy.
      .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
      NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 02-SR5 View Post
        Drop your tyre pressure to about 20psi and turn off your traction control.

        Then enjoy.
        Lucky, on the Paj you can only turn off stability control via the ESC/ASC button
        NS Tall and Short (Trakryder/Bilstein 2" lift with Polyairs) DiD "R", Gunmetal on BFG 270/60/17 AT's, TJM Bullbar, 9500lb Ox Winch, Icom 450, AirTech Snorkel, Cargo Barrier, Dual Battery System to power a CF 40, ScanguageII, LRA Auxillary Tank
        Custom Intercooler/Sump/Transmission Bash Plates and Sliders by http://www.bushskinz4x4.com.au/

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Goodsy View Post
          Put her in low range as well. Don't worry about sand. Just enjoy.
          Wouldnt contantly be using 4LL
          Not enough speed for when you need it
          Would be using 4HL

          Comment


          • #6
            How fast you going? Mainly say use 4LL to give the autos an easy run
            .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
            NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

            Comment


            • #7
              Chris,

              On my Auto PB Challenger I find the following works for me in sand.

              Firm Sand; 4wd High Locked and 18psi to 22psi in the tyres, switch "OFF" the ASC. The Traction Control can not be switched "OFF" and the ASC will automatically switch "ON" if you turn the engine off and restart it, so it is easy to forget to keep turning it off. You want the ASC "OFF" as the ASC ECU/Yaw Sensor will sense the sideways movement can you get when driving through sand and intervene by cutting power and applying the brakes to one or more wheels, this will lead to getting bogged.

              Soft Deep Sand; 4wd Low Locked and 14psi to 16psi in the tyres. ASC is automatically switched "OFF" and stays off but the "ASC OFF" light does not come "ON". I use low range 2nd, 3rd & 4th in the semi manual gear selection 99% of the time when driving off road as I don't need to go fast, it gives better control and I am already in low range if the going gets tough. Auto will start moving in low 2nd (it is the same gear ratio as high 1st) but will not change into 5th in low range.

              The standard underbody plates are very thin and soft so they easily mould around everything they are meant to protect, I reshaped mine in deep soft sand in the first hour of sand driving so an aftermarket set of underbody plates including an auto trans plate is a wise investment.

              Have fun in the sand and remember to stay out of the water, it is a car not a boat!

              cheers, old Jack.
              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

              Comment


              • #8
                If you're new to driving off road it would be worthwhile doing a course, either through a commercial operator or a 4WD club.
                2005 NP Platinum 3.2 DID Auto, Lovells HD springs, Bilstein shocks, Firestone Airbags, ARB bar, Warn XD 9000 winch, IPF 900 Xtreme Sport lights, Bushskinz intercooler & sump guards, Outback Accessories rock sliders, GME 3200 UHF, CTEK Dc to Dc Dual Battery system, 265/75/16 General Grabber AT2 tyres, Torque Converter lock-up kit, Safari snorkel, Taipan high performance exhaust, LRA 66lt long range fuel tank.

                Comment


                • #9
                  One thing that can't be stressed enough is to not panic!

                  A few times on sand I'll begin to bog down but the paj will just very slowly creep forward, all times I've done this the car has slowly driven out of trouble.

                  One common mistake that I'm sure we are all guilty of at some point is when you lose all momentum, STOP! your brain says "gun it" but this generally doesn't work.

                  Had this yesterday, got bogged in some very soft sand at a local 'playground' consisting of rock, sand, gravel and a shitload of rubbish! When I lost momentum, I quickly stopped accelerating (belly only just started touching the sand), took a deep breath, climbed out and let pressures down to 18psi, gently reversed and slowly accelerated forward, got out in one shot!

                  Previously I just gunned it and both times needed snatching.

                  I have self-taught everything however its taken a lot longer than that of what a course could teach.

                  Cheers

                  Marc
                  05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.

                  To-do:
                  brake upgrade, oil seals (again!!)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'm a noob too, but I've found that 20psi in the soft rutted tracks is ok and let it torque it's way through in 4H 2nd gear rather than lots of revs in 4H 1st. Too easy to spin and dig in when you're doing lots of revs in first gear. In 2nd it tends to "float" better.
                    'Shrek' 2002 NM GLS 2.8TD manual. ARB bar. HD King springs & Bilsteins. Bridgestone D674LT. Milford Cargo Barrier. Bushskinz intercooler & sump guards. Exedy solid flywheel. 25mm core radiator. 2.5" exhaust. Airtec snorkel. Engel MT45, Projecta 150A isolator, 120A AGM battery in 3rd row. ARB bar, Fyrlyts & 30" LED lightbar Pics + 2015 Isuzu MU-X with all the fruit.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      yep sand = simple stuff really if you do it right. for me it's

                      *20psi - the MOST important thing. I've found this is more than low enough for my 33 muddies
                      *harder packed higher speed stuff - think low tide heading up the beach - 4H. Remember you are running 20psi, so limit the speed plus it ain't a freeway!
                      *soft stuff - think dunes etc - 4L steady speed, if you need revs, have em at the start not half way through.

                      Remember if you get stuck, as someone else mentioned, foot off first. Clear (arm/shovel) sand behind all 4 wheels, 4L, easy back at steady momentum. This will get you out 90% of the time if you foot off first. Oh, and as tempting as that locker switch may be, leave it for the dirt as lockers will only dig you deeper

                      Have fun and don't forget the fishin sticks!
                      1995 GLS 3.5, optioned to the shhizam with just couple of mods

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks gents great info. Question was retrospective as I already bogged the Chall on a beach 3 m from the surf. This was last Wed on a beach north of Long Beach near Robe sand was soft and deep and I had 38 psi and had just come off Long Beach full of confidence 4HLC. Stopped for a second and that was it down it went. Had visions of those 4wheel drives buried in the surf. Stuck it in low range and locked up the diff and dug the sand away from the BFGs and preyed just a little and slowly she came out. Don't think engine dropped below 3000 rpm till I got off that beach car was bouncing all over the place must of been funny to watch I wasn't laughing though fkn sand!!! Talk about learning the hard way will do a course I think!
                        2012 LS Charcoal Auto Tint Nudge, BFG AT TA. Ugly Mitsu Tow Bar.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I run my tyres down to 12-14psi but i'm running aggressive muds that like to dig holes, I also use 4LL in 2nd and 3rd mostly otherwise the Paj is like kid with a spade haha.


                          Cheers
                          Leo

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The course is well worth doing and you'll normally meet some good people on it as well.

                            In the meantime if you get stuck in sand again try dropping your tyre pressure and see if you get traction. If not keep dropping it until you get traction. As others have said avoid spinning the wheels as you're going to dig a hole and end up resting on the undercarriage ... which is when the spades come out :-( I've needed to go down to 10psi a few times but have always managed to drive out once they get to there.

                            I find that works for me, but you'll get used to your rig and the terrain and get the feel of what works for you.
                            Last edited by Nik; 16-01-13, 04:17 AM.
                            2005 NP Platinum 3.2 DID Auto, Lovells HD springs, Bilstein shocks, Firestone Airbags, ARB bar, Warn XD 9000 winch, IPF 900 Xtreme Sport lights, Bushskinz intercooler & sump guards, Outback Accessories rock sliders, GME 3200 UHF, CTEK Dc to Dc Dual Battery system, 265/75/16 General Grabber AT2 tyres, Torque Converter lock-up kit, Safari snorkel, Taipan high performance exhaust, LRA 66lt long range fuel tank.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Take out insurance, buy a set of max trax or two

                              Comment

                              Matched content

                              Collapse
                              Working...
                              X