Below Nav Bar Ad Module

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tired Engine

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Tired Engine

    just wondering what it would cost for me to have my engine 2.6 petrol reconditioned?
    i also need a starter motor if anyone has a cheap one.

  • #2
    No idea on the cost of doing a reco on your 2.6 but I would just put a GEN III Holden V8 motor in it. Buy a donor car like a hail damaged car and you would have 95% of what you need you the conversion.
    NT 2010 GLX Police Pack, Auto 3.2 Diesel, Smartbar, Warn XD9000 Winch and Rear Diff Lock. Cooper AT3s on Factoty Alloys, 45mm lift TJM XGS GOLD front & rear, S/D with Poly air bags Rear and HD Front , Bushskinz I/C guard, TJM T/F Case And G/Box guards, Duel Battery setup with Redarc Isolator and Redarc electric brake controller.

    Comment


    • #3
      i want to keep the original gearbox and cant afford to buy conversion kit and another engine, one thing at a time for me unfortunatly

      Comment


      • #4
        Have a starter $56.70 posted (Postage is the $16.70)


        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Uncle Fester View Post
          No idea on the cost of doing a reco on your 2.6 but I would just put a GEN III Holden V8 motor in it. Buy a donor car like a hail damaged car and you would have 95% of what you need you the conversion.
          Why in the hell are people hell bent on getting heavy lumbering petrol guzzling V8s in things that where never intended to be fast or powerful? Kind of takes away from having a cheap old paj in the first place. Just my 2c worth.

          Comment


          • #6
            Rebuilding the 2.6 would probably be a lot cheaper than putting a holden v8 in anyway
            1983 NA SWB with a 4d56t, running 14psi through a custom water to air intercooler, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate, Boost and EGT gauges, Snorkel, Provent Catch Can, Manual Hub conversion, 40mm EFS lift, ARB Bullbar, Aluminium roof rack, awning, 31'' BF-G KO2's on 15x8 -23 steelies, Factory Flares, 41" light bar on the roof, lightforce strikers up front, and a set of much needed cup holders

            Comment


            • #7
              2.6 magna engine should fit, could pickup who car for scrap metal price if you find the right one.

              Comment


              • #8
                Full Recond will cost too much, as above, find a $50 Magna with a Stuffed Trans ( shouldn't be hard as thats the weakest part ) Make sure you start the donk and check it out that the Timing Chain is not RS, it's not blowing Tons of Smoke. Strip out the donk, keep Starter, Alt etc. and Scrap the Rest for $100 at Metal Recyclers. Put in Rings, Conrod Bearings and Timing Chain if you have to. All up parts about $400 ?
                NP 05 Platinum Edition, 3.2 DiD Auto, Extra H/D 50mm Kings, Garmin GPS, Waeco 40, Turbo Smart Boost Gauge, Lambwool Covers, Kumo Tyres, Rock Sliders Pending, Surrey Downs Adelaide Sth Aust.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by pajeroman3lt View Post
                  Why in the hell are people hell bent on getting heavy lumbering petrol guzzling V8s in things that where never intended to be fast or powerful? Kind of takes away from having a cheap old paj in the first place. Just my 2c worth.
                  I agree, retarded idea that one.

                  other option is to find a 4D56T pajero being wrecked and do a diesel swap.
                  G5R5OL = CD5A/CE9A/E39A Bastard Child
                  Daily = 2006 NP Pajero VR-X DiD

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I am in the process of putting a Gen III in a early model car as the cost of rebuilding the original motor was way to expensive. I still think my comment was valid to the original post as in it I stated I didn't know the cost of a reco on his motor and suggested another option. For all the people who have simply ppsted and bagged the idea you have not helped the OP at all. You have simply proved that not all comments made on forums are useful.
                    NT 2010 GLX Police Pack, Auto 3.2 Diesel, Smartbar, Warn XD9000 Winch and Rear Diff Lock. Cooper AT3s on Factoty Alloys, 45mm lift TJM XGS GOLD front & rear, S/D with Poly air bags Rear and HD Front , Bushskinz I/C guard, TJM T/F Case And G/Box guards, Duel Battery setup with Redarc Isolator and Redarc electric brake controller.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pajeroman3lt View Post
                      Why in the hell are people hell bent on getting heavy lumbering petrol guzzling V8s in things that where never intended to be fast or powerful? Kind of takes away from having a cheap old paj in the first place. Just my 2c worth.
                      Originally posted by GSRSOL View Post
                      I agree, retarded idea that one.

                      other option is to find a 4D56T pajero being wrecked and do a diesel swap.
                      Originally posted by Uncle Fester View Post
                      I am in the process of putting a Gen III in a early model car as the cost of rebuilding the original motor was way to expensive. I still think my comment was valid to the original post as in it I stated I didn't know the cost of a reco on his motor and suggested another option. For all the people who have simply ppsted and bagged the idea you have not helped the OP at all. You have simply proved that not all comments made on forums are useful.
                      I recon the Gen III would be cheaper to run than an old diesel and a hell of a lot more reliable and lost more power for offroading. However if the OP would prefer to rebuild then each to their own but I won't be calling it a retarded idea because that's just nasty.
                      NT 2010 GLX Police Pack, Auto 3.2 Diesel, Smartbar, Warn XD9000 Winch and Rear Diff Lock. Cooper AT3s on Factoty Alloys, 45mm lift TJM XGS GOLD front & rear, S/D with Poly air bags Rear and HD Front , Bushskinz I/C guard, TJM T/F Case And G/Box guards, Duel Battery setup with Redarc Isolator and Redarc electric brake controller.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm pretty sure the magna 2.6's are narrower.
                        1990 Gen 1 NG EXE LWB
                        2.6 34ADM Weber, 2.25" Exhaust, Extractors, Balance shafts removed
                        . ( EFI setup pending :P )
                        2" Raised leafs and wound up torsion bars.
                        31" AT's and 32" MT's, Offset rims, Flexi-Flares.
                        Bull bar, 9500lbs winch, IPF driving lights, GME UHF Radio, Custom Rear Drawers, on-board 12v compressor, Upgraded sound system, 300w Inverter.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Wags View Post
                          I'm pretty sure the magna 2.6's are narrower.
                          If his donk is not Totally RS, he could rebuild what he has but usually the Pistons and Head will be Cactus, Magna internals should be same, wreckers will want too much for a good head and pistons/rods, if you can find any. I used to rebuild these, Timing Chain Kit was the Expensive bit and finding Good S/H Pistons
                          NP 05 Platinum Edition, 3.2 DiD Auto, Extra H/D 50mm Kings, Garmin GPS, Waeco 40, Turbo Smart Boost Gauge, Lambwool Covers, Kumo Tyres, Rock Sliders Pending, Surrey Downs Adelaide Sth Aust.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Magna motors are not the same as the original paj 2.6 petrol motor. Sure they fit but the head often cracks (the ones fitted I've heard or know of anyway).

                            My 84' Waggon's petrol motor was restored at about 300k. It was worthwhile doing as the body is rust free and straight.

                            If the rest of the vehicle is all good apart from the motor and you plan to keep the paj long term, I'd reco the motor as they are very sturdy, low tech and ultra reliable.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Due to the motor sitting flat in the engine bay, when coolant levels drop due to lack of maintenance, the air bubbles gather in the middle of the head, causing the space between cylinder 2 and 3 to overheat and crack in some cases.

                              A recondition would be worthwhile if you do it yourself. Take your motor out, get a bore and hone and stick a rebuild kit through it. The benefit would be knowing exactly what your internals are like, not having to worry about the motor having a dodgy history etc.
                              If you can source and EARLY magna, the RWD ones with the astron II block, the motor should fit. They ran from 85 till 91, so you could even get a motor from a car the same year as yours. If you're on a budget, don't chase an EFI motor as you'll have to spend money on modifications to make it work in your car. You can always use bits off your old motor if things don't work or fit. RWD manual 4g54s are wideblock, as is your Pajero. Although make sure you're able to check as 2.6 autos can be converted to manual (using boxes from other motors, as 2.6 autos are narrow block), so look for a car with a wideblock motor and box.

                              Good Luck with your car.

                              Comment

                              Matched content

                              Collapse
                              Working...
                              X