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Getting a First Gen SWB, what to look for?

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  • Getting a First Gen SWB, what to look for?

    Alright so long story short, I'm looking at getting a SWB First Gen\ Pajero. I've tried to do some research online as to what Engine and Model type is the best etc, but can't find anything. Seeing as most of you are or have been owners I figured I'd ask.

    What are some faults I should be looking for? (i.e Tailshaft bearing going)

    What are some extra's I should look for? (i.e Aftermarket Tank Guard, etc)

    What Model should I go for and why? (Not an amazing amount of choice up here in QLD but knowing what to look for would be great.)

    Common spots for rust?

    Good K's?

    Petrol or TD?

    Basically any general information on what would help me get a great Gen 1. Any help would be much appreciated.

  • #2
    Well mate, I am a gen1 owner and it is a reliable old turbo diesel, tough as nails, but I would be looking for a gen2, they just feel so much more modern, don,t get me wrong, my old girl is great but I wish it was a gen2. Darryl.

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    • #3
      I've got an early Gen 2 now but my 84 Gen 1 'Superwagon' was great. 2.6 litre 4 cyl petrol engine was trouble free for me. Easy to fix and parts were cheap back then. Had the same donk as the Sigma. Did lots of miles in stinking heat with a fully loaded Jayco camper and 5 people. Sat on 100 kph easily with the air conditioner going. Often wish I still had it.

      Under the doors was the only rust spot I can remember. I think gearbox seals or bearings may have been something to look out for but I never had any problems.

      All that said, ride wise theres no comparison with the Gen 2 or later.
      TIME IS RUTHLESS.
      A Subaru '16 Outback Diesel has finally replaced the NH Pajero. (Also had an NA once upon a time). Still got an 89 Sierra.

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      • #4
        Darryl;
        Yeah I've been told the Engines and Drive-trains in the Gen 2's are a massive improvement, but in saying that I'm chasing something that stands out. I've always bought older Cars and spent a fair bit doing them from the ground up so I have something reliable and unique.

        Alchemysa;
        Don't know how much the parts prices have increased but they're fairly standard from what I've seen, but they seem about the same as I'm paying for my other Cars. Always tend to search part costs before buying a car to see what I'd be spending fixing something if it broke. As for the rust, been told to check under the doors on the weld. That and the floor would be the most common spot for rust I assume just like any 4x4.
        I'll keep an eye out for the Seals then, thanks. Not surprised Gen 2's are better, as they're a newer/improved Car. Can always upgrade to a gen 2 down the track I 'spose.

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        • #5
          i would look for a later series one jap import , that way you should get coil rear end & a few other goodies that we didnt get offered here, seams to be a fair choice in QLD compared to the southern states , v6 check coolant has been changed regualy & timing belt has been changed , 4 cylinder gearboxes werent the strongest but mime is still going strong at 400,000 km , some rear diffs seam to get a wine in then at about 100kph , other that being anoying it doesnt seam to cause any problems , they are genrelly a good cheap 4wd that are far more capable that a lot of people realise , good luck
          ND shorty 2.6, EFI, suspension lift , body lift ,fuel tank lift,6 point alloy cage, front bar & winch, upgraded front brakes, 35s"
          NJ lwb 3l auto ,front bar HID driving lights, roof racks as required
          International D1510 4WD 6bt cummins ,air bags 37"s etc

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          • #6
            Is there an easy way to tell if it's an Import other than the Springs? (Australian mades have leaf rear, whilst the Japs have Coil?) They'd be import plated wouldn't they? V6's had the same internals as the magna's if I'm not mistaken? So are the 4 Cyl Gearboxes just slow/weak or prone to breaking entirely? Cause I'm looking wanting a 4 Cyl over the V6 preferably. I'll be sure to ask about the Diff's then as most of the ones I'm looking at aren't registered/RWC so I won't find out if it whines till later. Appreciate the info.

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            • #7
              NGs have coils regardless of import or not. (but sorry, don't know what the differences are) Darryl

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              • #8
                Main difference of an import is all of the japanese writing on the fuse panels and some plates under the bonnet. Suspension wise imports and aussie ones are the same. I havent heard of many four cylinder gearboxes breaking mines still fine after 30 yrs
                1983 NA SWB with a 4d56t, running 14psi through a custom water to air intercooler, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate, Boost and EGT gauges, Snorkel, Provent Catch Can, Manual Hub conversion, 40mm EFS lift, ARB Bullbar, Aluminium roof rack, awning, 31'' BF-G KO2's on 15x8 -23 steelies, Factory Flares, 41" light bar on the roof, lightforce strikers up front, and a set of much needed cup holders

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                • #9
                  My gear box is fine too, as long as I can keep the water out of it.lol. mine is a turbo diesel though.

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                  • #10
                    Looking at getting a Turbo Diesel if I can find one, large power difference between those and the Diesel's?

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                    • #11
                      The 4 cyl petrols have more power and torque but the turbo diesels can go on forever (with regular service that is)
                      1983 NA SWB with a 4d56t, running 14psi through a custom water to air intercooler, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate, Boost and EGT gauges, Snorkel, Provent Catch Can, Manual Hub conversion, 40mm EFS lift, ARB Bullbar, Aluminium roof rack, awning, 31'' BF-G KO2's on 15x8 -23 steelies, Factory Flares, 41" light bar on the roof, lightforce strikers up front, and a set of much needed cup holders

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TheBanana View Post
                        The 4 cyl petrols have more power and torque but the turbo diesels can go on forever (with regular service that is)
                        Think your TD might need a tune then, mine will out pull most the 3lt,s that iv driven, on the hills anyway.

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                        • #13
                          Thats whats written in my factory service manual anyway
                          1983 NA SWB with a 4d56t, running 14psi through a custom water to air intercooler, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate, Boost and EGT gauges, Snorkel, Provent Catch Can, Manual Hub conversion, 40mm EFS lift, ARB Bullbar, Aluminium roof rack, awning, 31'' BF-G KO2's on 15x8 -23 steelies, Factory Flares, 41" light bar on the roof, lightforce strikers up front, and a set of much needed cup holders

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by TheBanana View Post
                            The 4 cyl petrols have more power and torque but the turbo diesels can go on forever (with regular service that is)
                            lol not even

                            2.6 Jap (4G54) = 76Kw 192Nm
                            2.6 Oz (4G54) = 79Kw 196Nm
                            2.3 TD (4D55T) = 62Kw 188Nm
                            3.0 V6 (6G72) = 105Kw 228Nm
                            2.5 TD (4D56T) = 62Kw 201Nm
                            2.5 TDI (4D56TI) = 70Kw 240Nm
                            If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

                            '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

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                            • #15
                              Okay guys youve made me feel like an idiot now lets get back on topic shall we
                              1983 NA SWB with a 4d56t, running 14psi through a custom water to air intercooler, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate, Boost and EGT gauges, Snorkel, Provent Catch Can, Manual Hub conversion, 40mm EFS lift, ARB Bullbar, Aluminium roof rack, awning, 31'' BF-G KO2's on 15x8 -23 steelies, Factory Flares, 41" light bar on the roof, lightforce strikers up front, and a set of much needed cup holders

                              Comment

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