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  • Intermittent non starting

    I recently bought a 1996 low milage manual NJ Pajero (my fourth!). Excellent condition, but not without problems. The first time it refused to start was a very expensive 150k tow home. Once home, it still refused to start, and sat there for a week whilst i tried to figure out the cause.
    For the want of anything better to do I ran it through all of its gears and ranges, tried it again, and it started. It worked well for a few weeks, it doesn’t break down as I’m driving, but now the non-starting has become an issue again. I’ve noticed that the problem seems to be associated with very heavy rainfall. That might be a bit of a furphy, but it’s the only association that i can make.
    Has anybody got any suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Nick

  • #2
    The immobiliser would be my guess. Check for codes. Code 54 is the immobiliser code if you short out Pin No 1 in the diagnostic connector and then read the codes from the check engine light.

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    • #3
      Does "not starting" mean it turns over but won't spark, or that it won't turn over?
      =-( Sadly bought back: 99 NL Shortie. In a-peeling blue
      =-) Happily replaced by: 98 NL LWB Diesel

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      • #4
        Assuming that the starter motor does crank the engine over, when it does not fire, can you smell unburnt petrol in the exhaust? If it is really rich, it is flooded and too rich to fire. If it is a faint smell, it is unburnt fuel. If no smell at all, it points to the immobiliser because the immobiliser cuts the fuel to the injectors.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Nick L View Post
          .................For the want of anything better to do I ran it through all of its gears and ranges, tried it again, and it started. It worked well for a few weeks,..................
          Has anybody got any suggestions?
          Thanks,
          Nick
          Is it auto or manual?
          If auto, it may be the Inhibitor Switch?
          If manual, does it have a switch that needs the clutch depressed to start?

          If you have 2 keys, have you tried the other key?
          Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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          • #6
            Hi Scrambler, it has a strong battery, cranks over well, and doesn’t fire up when ‘Start,ya bastard!’ Is sprayed directly into thr throttle body.

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            • #7
              You should always have ignition (spark). Immobiliser cuts the fuel, so the problem lies with the ignition. You need a spark and you need it at exactly the correct time. so it is probably in the distributor where the problem lies. Try pulling a high tension lead off a plug and see if there is a spark. If there is, try to get an old fashioned timing light and see that the spark is happening at the correct place (about 10 degrees before Top Dead Centre).

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              • #8
                folling on from above with immobilisers - the comments about fuel and immobiliser normally refers to the factory immobiliser. which was only an option on pre NL models and not that common here in aussie. if however start ya bastard does not result in even it trying to start then there is another issue - an aftermarket alarm or immobiliser may be set up to cut power to the coils but thats only a maybe - more likely you have either a dodgy ecu (not uncommon overseas) or a problem with plugs leads or the ignition system somewhere
                1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back AND 8 PSI of BOOOOOST

                .... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
                .

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                • #9
                  Hi Erad, no smell of petrol at all. Is it possible to disable the immobiliser? I don’t know anyting about them, never having had one go bad on me before.
                  Thanks,
                  Nick

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                  • #10
                    Tried both keys, and when it starts, it starts without needing to depress the clutch (which i tried anyway, but without success.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Nick L View Post
                      Hi Erad, no smell of petrol at all. Is it possible to disable the immobiliser? I don’t know anyting about them, never having had one go bad on me before.
                      Thanks,
                      Nick
                      As far as I know, you cannot disable or bypass the immobiliser, but from a post above it seems as if you have no sparks at times, The immobiliser disables the fuel system - it will not allow the injector to work. You should always have a spark. On my old NL, it would briefly start on LPG, and I suspect if I cranked the engine for long enough, it would have run on LPG with a non-coded key in the ignition. Immobilisers do occasionally give trouble, hence the suggestion to try another key, but I tend to suspect the electricals in this case. You should be able to get another electronic module for the distributor if there is no spark when it fails to start.

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                      • #12
                        yes if its a factory immobiliser it can not be removed... its part of the ecu function - if you get a non immobiliser ecu it will bypass it but as Erad says they work by killing the injector pulse so a loss of spark means either an aftermarket immobiliser that is faulty or a fault elsewhere... if it is elsewhere you should be able to leave the ignition on and do a code check - a failed CAS or PTU should show up - infact so should an immobiliser fault. - also handy to know is if it is 3.0 or 3.5... as 2 very different setups
                        1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                        *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                        1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back AND 8 PSI of BOOOOOST

                        .... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
                        .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Nick L View Post
                          Thank you for all of your help folks, it is much appreciated. After a fair bit of investigation (which included eliminating the fuel pump as a problem) it seems to have been a problem with loose connections at the back of the ignition key cylinder. There is a small philips head screw that joins the wiring cluster at the end of the loom to the cylinder itself. Tightening it up (and possibly jiggling some dodgy connections) seems to have done the trick. If not, well, at least that is one more thing eliminated. As i said, it is a new car to me, so i’ll get the timing belt etc replaced in the near future, along with the CAS. Hopefully no more breaking down far from home in the future.
                          Thanks again,
                          Nick

                          Pretty sure Nick meant this to go in this thread.
                          =-( Sadly bought back: 99 NL Shortie. In a-peeling blue
                          =-) Happily replaced by: 98 NL LWB Diesel

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Scrambler View Post


                            Pretty sure Nick meant this to go in this thread.
                            yeah I saw and figured that as well
                            1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                            *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                            1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back AND 8 PSI of BOOOOOST

                            .... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
                            .

                            Comment

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