1998 nl

[whitehillbillies]

Good Evening from Northern NSW.
I have been hanging around this site for a few years now, from owning an Early Pajero Diesel, then moving on to a couple of Triton, then A couple of Challengers to a couple of Delica's. The Forum helped me sort out a few V6 Engine Issues.
My passion is now dare I say, Series Land Rovers.
Later In the year my Nephew is coming over from the UK for a Few month, and want him to have some independence.
I started looking around and a 1998 NL Auto with 238,000 on the clock came up local to me. I went and had a quick look, last week and its a bit rough, but no apparent rust, was NSW blue slipped 12 months ago but never Registered. Bought with overheating issues from Its previous owner, who had put in a new Radiator, water pump, Timing belt, plugs and leads done at 203,000 and new Alternator, but still had overheating issues. The current owner never sorted the overheating issue out. He had put on 5 new tyres that probably have no wear, an alloy bullbar and large roof basket. The Pajero has been into the Local Servo, who claims they cannot find a Blown Head Gasket issue, but apparently after a 20 minute run it steams out of the Overflow bottle.
I took my jack over today and checked steering, bearings, drive shaft/Diff back lash and all seems sound. Drive down the road, and Auto Gearbox was smooth and quiet, Kick down worked well as did going in and out of High/low range. Hold and Power button seemed to be ok. Motor runs smooth and quiet, no wobble on the crankshaft pulley.
The owner accepted my offer, which was a lot lower than the asking price, as he was 'Fed up with It'.
I will pick it up with my car Trailer Friday and Post up some Pics.
the First question is, what would be a good workshop manual I can Purchase, and from where ? would a Haynes be OK for my needs which may include replacing Head Gaskets ?
First job home Is to run My Sniffer kit to eliminated Blown Head Gasket. If good work through the other Know overheating issues with these motors.
Thanks for reading and comments.

whitehillbilly

[disco stu]

You can get a workshop manual at Mitsubishilinks.com for free

You know what the fan is like on it? Even when moving on highways etc the fan is needed on these to keep it cool. Can't think what else it could be apart from head gasket or fan if all the other stuff has been done as the previous owners say

[whitehillbillies]

Thanks Stu.
Excellent link.
I redid the fan on my Delica and my Challenger. Oil bought quite cheap from my local Toyota Dealership. I used a link on this forum.
As its a Auto it looks like its cooler, or engine oil cooler sits forward of the Radiator. you would imagine if a new radiator was fitted the cooler would have been cleaned out ????

whitehillbilly

[erad]

Whitehillbillies: Reading your post, I think you have a blown head gasket. I assume it is a V6 engine. You can have a head gasket leak which only appears when the engine reaches a certain temperature. It then blows coolant out into the overflow bottle, and as the engine cools down, the coolant is sucked back into the radiator. Unfortunately, to try to test under these conditions is very dangerous - you are likely to scald yourself. I had a Range Rover V8 which had this problem. On a long, steady climb up a hill, it would suddenly lose power slightly. Unless I was specifically looking for this, I wouldn't notice it, but one day near Ballarat, i saw it. As the temperature gauge reached a certain point, it dropped power. I eventually bit the bullet after noting the overflow bottle at the low level one day, and the next day it was full, without me adding anything to the system. This is why you cannot rely totally on the overflow bottle as a guide to how much coolant you have in the engine. You have to check the radiator level when teh engine is COLD. The fan coupling was crook as well.

Being a V engine, it had 2 heads. Which one was it? I chose the side which was the most awkward to access, and did that first. Luckily, it was that side which was bad. I could see on the sealing ring between No 6 and No 8 cylinders a small trace mark. I had the head skimmed and put it back on - no more problems (I also replaced the fan clutch at the same time). The problem emanates because of the differential expansion rates between the aluminium head and the cast iron block. As the temperature increases, the Al expands faster than the iron. A little more tension in the head bolt would have prevented it all happening. Indeed, if you are feeling brave enough, you could try tightening the head bolts, but probably it is too late now. Also, which head do you work on? I did a cylinder compression test on the Rangie, and the compressions were all virtually identical. That was because by the time I got the plugs out to test the pressures, the engine had cooled down and it was sealing again. So you probably cannot even tell which side to start on with your engine, but a cylinder compression test may give you a hint as to which side to start on. I doubt that any of the proprietary sealing products will work either, and they are likely to block up the radiator as well. Hope you can sort this out soon and with only a little fuss....

[whitehillbillies]

Thanks for your comments.
I am lucky to have a local Cylinder head shop that has been around for a few years, so a check for cracks and skim is no issue, if it come to that.
Will pick up Friday afternoon then some tests.
Then I should change my Avatar......

whitehillbilly

[erad]

Be aware that there is a maximum allowable distortion of the head surface of 0.2 mm, and the grinding limit is also 0.2 mm.. The same limits apply to the head to manifold surfaces as well. Obviously, if you pull the head(s) off, you would automatically replace the valve stem seals as well.

[whitehillbillies]

Jethro has a New Home.
Pics to come.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbillies]

Mould removal wash inside and out.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbillies]

Well just wondering what this fan does and when does it come in ????
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[stumagoo]

Well just wondering what this fan does and when does it come in ????
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Thats the ac fan - should come on when ac is turned on - many modern cars it will also come on when reverse is selected (but not gen 2) it is also switched on when engine temp gets excessive I believe although I have not found that settings location in the ecu(it would be great to know)

[whitehillbillies]

Broken wires.
What does this do ????
Attached to 12mm bolt on the Thermostat housing. Almost looks like the Old Radio Suppressor.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbillies]

Viscous fan not working once hot. spins after motor Turned off.
Also someone' has decided to remove the Thermostat ????

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbillies]

Noticed this leak above Exhaust AManifold bolt which stopped once hot ????

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbillies]

Milk shake anyone.
Best place for Head gasket kit.....Please.
How are These ????
Full Gasket Set Fit For Mitsubishi 6G74 Pajero NL NM NP 3.5L V6 24V DOHC | eBay

MITSUBISHI TRITON PAJERO MAGNA 3.5 24V 6G74 SOHC Head Gasket Set RRP $500 | eBay Few sold

Thanks

whitehillbilly

[erad]

Given the general condition of the car, I suggest that you buy and fit new crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, new timing belt and a new water pump. The price for the Susen gasket set seems very good - about half of the other kit, especially when you count i the postage as well. I didn't thoroughly scan the kit, but hopefully it includes a new o ring for the coolant pipe which runs to the rear of the engine in the Vee section. When you have it down that far, you should replace the seals and maybe even the pipe as well because it is a real bitch to get to otherwise.

The last parts I bought for my NL came from Roo Dogs in Campbelfield Vic. MitsFix in Bayswater Vic are also quite good for parts. But I doubt that you would get the gaskets any cheaper than the Susen place.