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Oil Pressure.Attached FilesComment
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Flashing front lights.
Just had a thought about the solenoids. One would only suck when 4x4 selected ???? don't think I checked that.Attached FilesComment
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Went for a 40 minute Drive tonight, coldish air temp around 18.
10 min uphill climb to the top of the range and back. engine temp gauge didn't climb beyond half way. At the top of the Range checked Rad over flow pipe. No Blow out, and top rad hose was still squashable, unlike before as I thought it was going to burst.
Back home and check was same.
Not sure all is ok Yet, but 100% improvement after fitting new parts. The Fan, Radiator and Thermostat give the cooling system a chance.
When the motor was switched of with No Fan running and the ignition switch on, I would of thought the Temp gauge should rise slightly. How to test and which Temp Sender, to make sure it works ok.
Thanks again for replies and comments.
whitehillbillyAttached FilesComment
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Also wanted to Buy.
One grey door knob and a good rear door Rubber. Hopefully the door rattle will go.
Thanks
whitehillbillyAttached FilesComment
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WhiteHillbillies: The description that you gave of your drive sounds perfectly normal to me. I would not expect the temperature gauge to rise at all if everything was working as it should. I suggest that you repeat the test, with the windows down and listen for the fan clutch cutting in. I suspect that you will hear it fairly easily. As for the temperature gauge, it is very insensitive and not linear. When the gauge moves off the cold mark, the temperature will be maybe 60 - 65 Deg C. Midway should be around 90 Deg C, and the red would be somewhere around 115 Deg C.
You can test the coolant temperature sensor by removing it and heating it up in a saucepan of water. Measure its resistance. The resistance drops as the temperature increases. At 0 Deg C, the resistance is 5.1 -6.5 kOhms; 20 Deg C - 2.1 - 2.7 kOhms; 40 Deg C - 0.9 - 1.3 kOhms; and for 80 Deg C - 0.26 -0.36 kOhms. I think that if it sits midway with a new thermostat, I wouldn;t bother removing it at all.Comment
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I might have a knob here. Will try and remember to look, but feel free to remind me.
With the idle, after resetting the throttle position sensor and throttle stop, have a look on top of throttle body, hole in the top rear side basically in line with butterfly, points up to the rear slightly. This is air bypass screw which takes a decent size Phillips head-screw in to lower idle, out to increase. I had to play with mine a fair bit to lower the idle after cleaning everything out.
Sounds like hopefully you're on top of the over heating. That thermostat looks good!Comment
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Thanks for the comments.
'resetting the throttle position sensor and throttle stop' Link on doing this ?
With My Challenger I Cleaned the MAF sensor Cleaner in a spray can and Throttle body with some sort of Foam you sprayed in intake.
Any suggestions.
whitehillbillyComment
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I thought you mentioned that you played with "the other electrical thing in throttle body" and the throttle stop. If I've read you correctly they'll need adjusting. If you haven't played with them then no need to reset
Supposedly you aren't supposed to touch the throttle stop screw, but I had to on mine. I think I reduced idle between throttle stop and idle bleed screw now I'm thinking about it
If you download the manual for your model from mitsubishilinks.com it will have it in there for setting both of them. Can't remember what section exactly, but should be able to find easily enough. Will need multimeter for the throttle position sensor, and I believe you have to set the throttle stop firstComment
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Two Steps forward, one step Back.
Water on the concrete. Lower Radiator bolt on Flange leaking. As the radiator is supposedly 'NEW' What would be a good sealant if I can get the 4 small nuts undone, and no crack detected ?
Issue may have been caused by no lower Nut fitted......
What does the two Smaller, 1/2inch Hoses in the bottom feed ? Couldn't find any info in the Manual's
whitehillbillyAttached FilesComment
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My guess about the 1/2 inch hoses is that they are the auto transmission cooler hoses. It all looks rather gunky down here, so if you do disconnect these hoses, make sure everything is as clean as possible.Comment
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Thanks erad.
Just had a chat to the local Radiator Shop. Auto Transmission Cooler Hoses.
The Bottom Elbow has a O ring that seals it. New O ring to fix, hopefully.
whitehillbillyComment
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The flange that's bolted onto the tank appears to be distorted (bowed in the middle).Originally posted by whitehillbillies View Post
Makes me wonder whether the joint has been over-tightened. Squashed o-ring under the bolts and less clamping in between the bolts.2012 PB Challenger LS ManualComment
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Hi KingBrown.
Thanks for your comments.
Elbow was flush. Rad boys have new seal..........'They can leak from new' was the comment.
Steel Spacers in the plastic flange, so believe they cant be over tightened.
Noticed small scratch on flange surface, so been off before, and would not help sealing. Thinking it may have leaked before.
whitehillbillyAttached FilesComment
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And another step backwards.......
Fitted new 4x4 Vacuum Solenoid, and all going well until I pulled off hose with this fitted and yes It came apart.
Looks like a clip holds it together and a Non return valve fitted inside with spring ????
Anyway only bits left. I put the hose straight on the solenoid.
Are they fitted to later NL's, couple in the local car yard.
Flashing front green lights no Longer flashing.
Thanks.
whitehillbillyAttached FilesComment
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