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  • NL steering resistance anomaly

    Bit of background:

    1999 3.5 Auto Exceed.

    After heaps of trouble with vibration and shimmy I replaced both upper and lower front ball joints which completely fixed the problems I had.

    After the ball joint job, I noticed the steering has some resistance. It was a bit odd to drive. Whatever position the steering was in, it wanted to stay in. But I reasoned it would wear in and only improve. Indeed over the last couple of months it has improved.

    Now the anomaly:
    In the morning when the car and environment is relatively cool, during the 20km drive to work, the the steering resistance is barely noticeable and the paj is a dream to drive on the roads at 60, 80, 90kph limits I encounter.

    Driving home in the hotter part of the day, on exactly the same roads, the resistance is really noticeable and the Paj is a bit tricky to keep on line.

    How can the resistance change with temperature?
    1999 3.5 NL Exceed Auto, Adelaide, South Australia

  • #2
    Sounds like Toe out to me, tyre pressures +/- with temp giving you the varying road resistance.

    Woof woof, (I hope this is the right tree)

    Cheers

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    • #3
      Just a guess
      Have you played around with the free play in the steering box (by that I mean the nut and screw on to of the box that can be adjusted to get rid of excessive steering wheel free play) - in an earlier attempt to overcome the original problems??

      If so perhaps when every thing is cold there is enough clearance for the steering to still 'self centre' and as things warm up the metal expension is just sufficient to cause you "new" problem.

      It is strange that it has only started after ball joint replacement - maybe the steering box stuff is a red herring and some similar cold / heat - expansion thing is happening in the ball joints???????????

      lambie
      NJ 1996 ITD GLX (poverty pack) with a couple of extras, ARB bar, dual batteries plus redarc, Glind shower, some roo spotties, running 235 85 R16 AT's for the road and MT's for the tracks, tweeked torsion bars, Free wheeling front hubs, Poly airs and prodegy electric brakes for the camper, GME radio thingy, Long range tank, cargo barrier, have I really spent all this on my bus??

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      • #4
        Thanks for the ideas. It is a strange one indeed. More research needed, I think.
        1999 3.5 NL Exceed Auto, Adelaide, South Australia

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        • #5
          Thought I'd post an update for anyone interested.

          One of the top ball joints had almost seized.

          When I took the Paj to a different suspension place, the guy immediately suspected ball joints when I mentioned the change in steering load depending on temperature.

          He was a bit doubtful thought when I said the ball joints had all been replaced less than 12 months ago with "no bull" parts.

          While I waited he separated the tie rod ends to allow the front wheels to pivot freely. The right one was definitely binding. When he stripped it down the top right ball joint was nearly seized.

          New "no bull" ball joints failing within 12 months? Am I just lucky or is it common??

          Anyway, All good now - just a lighter pocket.
          1999 3.5 NL Exceed Auto, Adelaide, South Australia

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by keith h View Post
            New "no bull" ball joints failing within 12 months? Am I just lucky or is it common??
            I don't know if it's common, but you've given me a little more reason to maintain my prejudice. It will be a cold day in hell when I darken "their" doorstep.

            How many "no bull" parts were fitted at once?
            NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

            Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

            Scorpro Explorer Box

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            • #7
              Originally posted by nj swb View Post
              I don't know if it's common, but you've given me a little more reason to maintain my prejudice. It will be a cold day in hell when I darken "their" doorstep.

              How many "no bull" parts were fitted at once?
              I've only ever bought the parts from "no bull". Never had work done there.

              Well, I had a "no bull" pitman arm and idler arm fitted about 18 months ago. During the trouble shooting it was found the "new" pitman arm was faulty and was replaced under warranty.

              Then I replaced all four ball joints with "no bull". Within 12 months one had almost seized. I didn't bother to get it replaced under warranty. :

              I certainly won't be buying their parts again. After this experience, I would carefully consider genuine parts.
              1999 3.5 NL Exceed Auto, Adelaide, South Australia

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              • #8
                this ball joint seize up is quite rare for the age of unless the vehicle has had some salt water driving and was never under body washed out. also there is a chance the manufacturer forgot to pre grease , why don,t they go back to the good old joints that have grease nipples, i don,t know.
                NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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