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  • using water

    Hi, my pajero 3 ltr v6 engine is now using or should i say loosing water somewhere? i have done a radiator / system pressure test with no results. the engine runs fine with no missing of the cylinders, plus there is no water in the oil. any of you guys have any glues to what could be the problem ? by the way the water lose would be atleast 1 to 2 litres per day. thanks.
    NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

  • #2
    I'll give you a "glue"...

    If the vehicle uses 1 or so litres of water a day, and you can't see it pissing out of the engine bay anywhere... then it must be burning it.. at a friggin rapid rate by the sounds of it!

    Time to let a professional look at it, me thinks!

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    • #3
      Hi
      Probably the back of the water pump leaking into the Valley between the heads, under the inlet manifold. Water evaporating.

      Or leaking head gasket, between the cylinders and the coolant valleys in the block, therefore pressurising the coolant system and pushing water out of the overflow.

      Cheers
      2013 MY13 VRX

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      • #4
        I have the same problem mate. I've been told the most likely problem is a leaking water pump. Apparently where the pump sits, means any leaking water is turned to steam due to the high temperature from the engine. This seems a reasonable answer to me as I (a) only see any water under the paj after a short drive, when the engine hasn't had time to heat up, and (b) loose water and don't notice anything underneath when the engines hot.
        97 NK

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        • #5
          Originally posted by tas_smurf View Post
          I have the same problem mate. I've been told the most likely problem is a leaking water pump. Apparently where the pump sits, means any leaking water is turned to steam due to the high temperature from the engine. This seems a reasonable answer to me as I (a) only see any water under the paj after a short drive, when the engine hasn't had time to heat up, and (b) loose water and don't notice anything underneath when the engines hot.
          sounds like it could be my problem but i don,t see any water leakage at any time cold , warm or hot when the car is stationary. some guys ay it could be a leaking head gasket or cracked head where the water is entering the cylinder combustion chamber and blasting out via the exhaust, stuffed if i know what to do.
          NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dolphin View Post
            sounds like it could be my problem but i don,t see any water leakage at any time cold , warm or hot when the car is stationary. some guys ay it could be a leaking head gasket or cracked head where the water is entering the cylinder combustion chamber and blasting out via the exhaust, stuffed if i know what to do.

            I've put up with an increase in how much water I've been losing over the last couple of months. The last couple of days its gotten to really high water loss. Today I've driven around a total of 70km in 3 trips and had to replace about a litre, so I'm going to bite the bullet and change the water pump. The engine is sitting at 287k, so I was due to change the timing belt soon anyway. I had a read at the manual and it says an internal leak could cause a build up in pressure, resulting in the contents of the radiator exiting throught the overflow pipe into the resourvoir. I don't think its an internal leak though as my resourvoir continually empties. The way I'm looking at it is, I'll be keeping the Paj for quite a few years, so even if it turns out the water pump I'm replacing was ok, I'll have gained a bit of experience and saved, if it turns out the pump was goosed, then I'll have changed the timing belt and saved a bit of time. I could always take off the new pump and return it to the dealer, but that'll depend on the price and how easy it is to replace.
            97 NK

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            • #7
              Ive had my NH for around 4 months and its been using water just like you describe. No visible leaks that I could find, although I think it was leaking slightly from the water pump. Got the pump and timing belt changed, although its still using about 0.5 -1 litre every 100kms from the overflow tank.

              The more I leave it, the more I think its the head Im going to take the heads off in the next 2-4 weeks and get them checked and the head gasket changed.

              In the time mine has been using water, it too has showed no signed of a blown head gasket, although this really can only be the explanation now.
              Like you, Im planning on keeping it for a while yet, so I'll bite the bullet now and see if I can fix it.

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              • #8
                yes i have owned my NH for over 7 years and it never used a drop of water until now. it has 192,000 on the clock and i will add about 1 litre of oil every 2 months or so which is great but now the water vanishing problem is a bit of a mistery as it could be a number of things like, the water pump leaking internally [ not externally ] a leaking head gasket [ what side ] a cracked head [ what side ] or a cracked block. i just feel that is it worth spending all of this money needed to correct this problem or just hock it and buy another vehicle ? think of it this way , what would you think if the mechanic said you have a crack in the engine block ? after removing both heads ect = labour plus re-fit labour = some dollars ? this model is only valued at around $6,000 and repair costs are around the max excluding the engine block crack maybe of up to $2,000. [ HELP ]
                NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by dolphin View Post
                  yes i have owned my NH for over 7 years and it never used a drop of water until now. it has 192,000 on the clock and i will add about 1 litre of oil every 2 months or so which is great but now the water vanishing problem is a bit of a mistery as it could be a number of things like, the water pump leaking internally [ not externally ] a leaking head gasket [ what side ] a cracked head [ what side ] or a cracked block. i just feel that is it worth spending all of this money needed to correct this problem or just hock it and buy another vehicle ? think of it this way , what would you think if the mechanic said you have a crack in the engine block ? after removing both heads ect = labour plus re-fit labour = some dollars ? this model is only valued at around $6,000 and repair costs are around the max excluding the engine block crack maybe of up to $2,000. [ HELP ]
                  in the past 10 years i was working in a engine reconditioning workshop and done a heap of these engines never once have i seen a cracked block but have seen plenty of cracked heads they crack mostly under the camshafts on the rear of the left head but are also known to crack between the valve seats. after owning the car for 7 years and knowing all the faults with it i think your the only one who can decide weather to repair or replace it. but think up to $5000 to repair or a heap more to replace?
                  95 NJ PAJERO 3.0LT V6, AUTO, MAN HUBS, ECB bullbar, WARN 9000lb WINCH, dual long range tanks (205lts), Airtec snorkel, K&N air filter, rotronics dual battery system, GME tx4400 uhf, rated recovery points on all 4 corners, GQ rear coils

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                  • #10
                    Update on my water problems mate. As you know, mine was using upto 1.5L on a 70km run. Go the water pump as previous posts suggest this to be the most common fault. Took of the bash plates and saw the water was coming from the front left hand side of the engine looking at it from the front of the car. I've never changed the water pump on a paj before, so I've followed the book. By the time I took off the timing belt cover I could see water was coming from the bottom left hand side of the water pump. After removing the pump it appears that my problem is due to the gaskets being buggered. The left side of the gasket that goes between the pump and the engine was totally rotten. The gasket that goes inside the water pump was nearly non-existent. The o-ring that goes on the shaft the water pump pushes onto was also distorted. I don't see any apparent problems with the mechanical parts of the water pump, but I'm going to change it anyway as I've bought a replacement. As yet the new pump isn't in, due to the o-ring that came with the new pump being the wrong size. As the local part shop was shut by the time I found out the new o-ring was too big, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to put everything back together. I've had problems getting the crankshaft bolt off, but after talking to a friend, the way the mechanics normally do it is to use a master-bar and strong socket (they may be called something different in Oz - I bought mine in Glasgow before coming over), place the bar against the passenger side chassis rail and turn the starter motor over a quick turn, remembering to dis-connect the distributor cap so the engine doesn't fire. As far as I can see with having gotten everything off the engine, the main thing is to make sure the timing marks are correct, as the removal of the various pulley's, brackets, radiator and fan are pretty straight forward. I'll post again once I've everything back on the Paj and had a
                    97 NK

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                    • #11
                      Everythings back on, and after 150km I've yet to loose any water. I still reckon I could have gotten away with just replacing the water pump gasket, but as I'd bought the replacement pump anyway, I've replaced it. The only pain seems to be that prices in Tasmania seem to be much more expensive than on the mainland. I see someone on another post was quoted $100 for their pump, whereas here in Tassie its just $200.
                      97 NK

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                      • #12
                        i do say its a must to when replacing the timing belt to also replace the total water pump , seeing that its all there whilst pulled down.
                        NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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