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what would you do ?

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  • what would you do ?

    Hi, as the heading says, i am asking for some advice on what i should do with my 1991 NH V6-3000 Pajero. the problem i have is water leakage somewhere and i have been informed that its either leaking from a head gasket or there is a crack in either the cylinder head or maybe the block. as we know this is not a cheap repair, i have been quoted anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 for the repair. the actual vehicle is in very good condition with not a sign of any rust, great paint work, perfect interior ect ect . so what would you guys concider doing in my case , have it repaired or trade it in for a later model ? thanks [ help me ]
    NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

  • #2
    Well you asked what I would do which is not necessarily what you would do.

    Disclaimer : I've never owned a car that is over 10 years old so I don't understand the loyalty to a machine that is 16/17 years old.

    I would sell it or part it out....you may surprise yourself how much better the later model Pajero's are and not too bad on price these days.

    Unless it's a vintage I just can't see the value of spending money on it.

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    • #3
      I have the same problem mate. After asking around and also from other posts I've seen on this forum, I've been told the most likely problem is a leaking water pump. Apparently where the pump sits means any leaking water is turned to steam due to the high temperature from the engine. This seems a reasonable answer to me as I (a) only see any water under the paj after a short drive, when the engine hasn't had time to heat up, and (b) loose water and don't notice anything underneath when the engines hot.
      97 NK

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      • #4
        Originally posted by OnPatrol View Post

        Disclaimer : I've never owned a car that is over 10 years old so I don't understand the loyalty to a machine that is 16/17 years old.

        I would sell it or part it out....you may surprise yourself how much better the later model Pajero's are and not too bad on price these days.

        Unless it's a vintage I just can't see the value of spending money on it.

        Depends... and that's due to a lot of variables... not really a clue on what the objective is here....

        If we did a dollar for dollar build up.... he's gonna end up with more capable machine than a newer one... that's why some of us know to do up old 4wds.

        For what it cost to purchase a used NM V6.... that money ploughed into the old truck (NH) from the outset (so everything is new/rebuilt) 20~25 grand.... the NH would poo all over the NM. For that sort of money, engine swap, rebuild the gearbox, rebuild the diffs and get lockers, reset the suspension (lift or retune), barwork... and what's that worth? 16 grand yet ? ... and this is now a mechanically new vehicle.... the NM would have what .. 90,000km and be starting to cost for stuff for up keep.

        Sure it's an older body design but the NH would have power, nice ride and agility of a mountain goat.... without all the stuff you really need in the scrub like leccy windaz, SRS, traction control (for what its worth) and ground hugging plastic stick on bits... unless it's to be a virgin to LLC and scrub scratches I don't see the point in buying newer.


        BUT if it's a shopping cart that's a fix motor this year, gearbox next, rear diff... then it's a financial bleed.... and if it's a newer model there's finance on top of any fix ups which makes the whole idea expensive and nothing's financially advantageous.


        Two an' half isn't expensive.... think about it this way... what's the vehicle typically worth + the cost of the repair..... comparitively what sort of condition vehicle would that buy you ?
        'No Princess' - NJ LWB - Modded 2.8TD

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        • #5
          Hi Dolphin

          I thought about this long and hard. If you love the car and you love owing it and driving it then fix it even if it costs 4 grand. It may not be the sensible economic thing to do and you will never recover the costs when you sell it but you will get your money back in useage. You could spend 20 grand or whatever on a 2002 model and in 12 months time be in the same boat.

          Cheers and good luck Glenn
          NP Exceed 2005 3.2 diesel automatic , 100% stock standard except for the headlight globes

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          • #6
            Unless you trade it in without anyone knowing about its problem, youll be lucky to even get anything for it... more so you would prolly get as much for scrap metal. If your going to keep it for a couple of so years, do it, if not, scrap it.

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            • #7
              Another option you could take is to put a second hand motor in it, although this would be a bit of a gamble as you could end up with the same problem.

              Im was in the same dilema, and what I have decided to do is pull the car off the road and have a go at replacing the head gaskets myself. I have another car to drive around in, so Im able to take my time with it.

              In the end, hopefully I'll fix the problem, plus gain alot of experience in doing it.

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              • #8
                are you sure it's using water, is there moisture damage present on the spark plugs? eg rust, discolouration of one and others are normal?

                If it's using water then go out and buy a bottle of a product called "Seal It" follow the instructions exactly, you could get up to another 100K more from this remedy.

                If it's not using water, check the "O" ring on the radiator drain fitment, or check you heater coil inside the vehicle for corrosion, moisture in the carpet around it etc

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                • #9
                  Trade it... unless you can do the work yourself or your strapped for cash, otherwise the car is too old

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                  • #10
                    i have come to a conclusion with my vehicles problem. after a couple of inspections by qualified mechanics, one being from mitsubishi. both have told me the only way to find this water leakage is to remove both the cylinder heads plus the timing gear area to where the water pump is located as they will not know the problem until they remove and inspect . a pressure test to the cooling system has been done and no visible leaks found, also a compression test has been done with results of very even compression to all 6 cylinders. i cant see this problem being a leaking water pump back area as the pump was only replaced about 20,000 k ago , it will be either a leaking head gasket [ which one ] a cracked head [ which one ] or a cracked block. i feel i dont want to take the risk of having the mechanic pull this all down to find something bad such as a crack in the block which is alot of dollars like a new engine . the car is now 17 years old and what next. i have decided to hock it off as is and buy a later model . thanks very much for all input.
                    NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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                    • #11
                      It would more than likely be a cracked head as they do not crack blocks. It's typical for the 3ltr to crack a head once the klms get up. Mine was well serviced and still cracked a head at around 240k. If the rest of the Paj is fine just get the heads done. Good luck either way!
                      Dave
                      NX Pampas Cat GLS MY16
                      Member 1228 Pajero Club

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                      • #12
                        Is/was it a SWB or LWB model?

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                        • #13
                          Update on my water problems mate. As you know, mine was using upto 1.5L on a 70km run. Go the water pump as previous posts suggest this to be the most common fault. Took of the bash plates and saw the water was coming from the front left hand side of the engine looking at it from the front of the car. I've never changed the water pump on a paj before, so I've followed the book. By the time I took off the timing belt cover I could see water was coming from the bottom left hand side of the water pump. After removing the pump it appears that my problem is due to the gaskets being buggered. The left side of the gasket that goes between the pump and the engine was totally rotten. The gasket that goes inside the water pump was nearly non-existent. The o-ring that goes on the shaft the water pump pushes onto was also distorted. I don't see any apparent problems with the mechanical parts of the water pump, but I'm going to change it anyway as I've bought a replacement. As yet the new pump isn't in, due to the o-ring that came with the new pump being the wrong size. As the local part shop was shut by the time I found out the new o-ring was too big, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to put everything back together. I've had problems getting the crankshaft bolt off, but after talking to a friend, the way the mechanics normally do it is to use a master-bar and strong socket (they may be called something different in Oz - I bought mine in Glasgow before coming over), place the bar against the passenger side chassis rail and turn the starter motor over a quick turn, remembering to dis-connect the distributor cap so the engine doesn't fire. As far as I can see with having gotten everything off the engine, the main thing is to make sure the timing marks are correct, as the removal of the various pulley's, brackets, radiator and fan are pretty straight forward. I'll post again once I've back on the Paj and had a
                          97 NK

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