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Coolant flush and change on 1993 3ltr V6

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  • Coolant flush and change on 1993 3ltr V6

    Hoping to do this tomorrow,just wondering how much coolant is needed to replace the old stuff and is there anything else to know?
    Type A coolant is the right one too?

  • #2
    When mine was done several months ago, my mechanic used wheel cleaner to flush it. Put it in - drive it around - flush it out well
    He says it works very well to remove the bad stuff.
    89 3.0L 5Spd SWB Raider in NW USA

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Bernoulli View Post
      When mine was done several months ago, my mechanic used wheel cleaner to flush it. Put it in - drive it around - flush it out well
      He says it works very well to remove the bad stuff.
      Not a bad idea .

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Irish Paj View Post
        Hoping to do this tomorrow,just wondering how much coolant is needed to replace the old stuff and is there anything else to know?
        Type A coolant is the right one too?
        Just a word of advice make sure you completely flush your system of old coolent as if you mix different brands together they can react against each other and gel up in your cooling system which in turn blocks up the cores in the radiator causing overheating problems
        Silver 02 nm pajero 3.5ltr ,gls ,5sp manual,nudge bar,UHF,Snorkel ,40mm Tough dog lift ,DVD headrests ,roof awning & still more to come

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        • #5
          Usually it is a good idea to run the engine and switch on the heater, to make sure the heater core is also flushed.

          I usually do 3 flushes with tap water: Drain the old coolant, fill up with tap water, run the engine and engage the heater until engine is at operation temperature, let it cool down, drain the radiator. Repeat. After 3 flushes I cant notice any greenish colour left from the old coolant. Then use demineralised water, add coolant stuff and you are done. No need for disconnecting any hoses.
          97 Pajero NK GLS, 3.5L Auto... 33x12.5 Bighorns on 15x8, 2" Suspension Lift (Lovell / Bilstein / Tough Dog), 170 Narva Spotties, homemade Rear Storage System, homemade Top Roof Console, ARB onboard compressor, UHF, Redarc Dual Battery Setup, Rear Working Light, 300W Inverter, Full size Rhino roof rack

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          • #6
            Originally posted by UndeadHomer View Post
            Usually it is a good idea to run the engine and switch on the heater, to make sure the heater core is also flushed.

            I usually do 3 flushes with tap water: Drain the old coolant, fill up with tap water, run the engine and engage the heater until engine is at operation temperature, let it cool down, drain the radiator. Repeat. After 3 flushes I cant notice any greenish colour left from the old coolant. Then use demineralised water, add coolant stuff and you are done. No need for disconnecting any hoses.

            Nicely done there,seems like the best and easiest.
            I read from another post,

            - CASTROL ANTIFREEZE-ANTIBOIL
            A fully formulated, ethylene glycol based coolant designed to meet the requirements of the majority of cars and light commercial vehicles with petrol and diesel engines. Use at 30 - 50% concentration as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

            Service Refill Capacity: 9.5 Litres (See Note 921)


            Is that right?
            what brand would you's recommend?
            On a brief look in SCA yesterday they only seemed to have 5ltr bottles for anything other than Type A,Type A's all seemed to be 1ltrs and @ $9 each..

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            • #7
              Done the flush yesterday,took about 5 fill ups of tapwater till it was draining clear,then mineralised water worked a treat,all top up and reserve bottle is squeaky clean.
              I also ran the garden hose down the top and it helped.
              Took just under 5 ltrs of coolant which i found in the 'open your eyes' section of SCA for just $20.
              Peace of mind at last.

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              • #8
                good on ya, mate, saved some $$$ by doing it yourself !

                5-6 litres of coolant seems to be about the same amount as I needed to fill up after flushing.
                I used demineralised water and added nulon concentrated green additive (el cheapo)
                97 Pajero NK GLS, 3.5L Auto... 33x12.5 Bighorns on 15x8, 2" Suspension Lift (Lovell / Bilstein / Tough Dog), 170 Narva Spotties, homemade Rear Storage System, homemade Top Roof Console, ARB onboard compressor, UHF, Redarc Dual Battery Setup, Rear Working Light, 300W Inverter, Full size Rhino roof rack

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                • #9
                  be careful with the cheap coolants as you really do get what you pay for in this stuff, What you need to do is compare the ethylene glycol concentration, a good one n concentrate has about 900g/ l and is mixed in a 50 / 50 concentration, some of the cheap ones start at 400 g/ l and reckon they can be diluted up to 15l.

                  Talk to the experts and they will all say go for the good stuff first, poor quality coolant can actually be worse than plain water.
                  Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
                  Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

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                  • #10
                    totally agree with schnitzel. it is not a wise move to use cheap coolant as more harm can be done than you would think. remember this stuff is not just a Coolant that keeps engine temps down a touch but it also is a protectant of the alloys used inside your vital cooling areas.
                    NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

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                    • #11
                      I would just like to raise a point of order here...

                      I'm in QLD - what is a glycol additive going to give me? It makes almost no noticeable difference to the boiling point, it is an anti freeze.


                      I run no glycol in my Falcon, just a corrosion inhibitor and demineralised water. Rust/galvanic corrosion is my enemy, not freezing.
                      1994 NJ GLS Auto, 3.0 LPG, 31s, HD springs, 50mm body lift, Firestone rear air bags

                      1993 NH GLS Manual, 3.0 LPG, 31s, Iron Man Torsion and Coils, Lovells Shocks, 30mm body lift, Manual Hubs, Extractors and god awful droning 2.5" exhaust

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                      • #12
                        don't most of the coolant additives contain the full antifreeze, antiboil and corrosion inhibitor package ? at least, the nulon stuff i use is a all-in-one mixture

                        can't see any harm in having glycol in the cooling system - but you are right, it is just an antifreeze and maybe redundant in most areas in oz
                        97 Pajero NK GLS, 3.5L Auto... 33x12.5 Bighorns on 15x8, 2" Suspension Lift (Lovell / Bilstein / Tough Dog), 170 Narva Spotties, homemade Rear Storage System, homemade Top Roof Console, ARB onboard compressor, UHF, Redarc Dual Battery Setup, Rear Working Light, 300W Inverter, Full size Rhino roof rack

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by UndeadHomer View Post
                          don't most of the coolant additives contain the full antifreeze, antiboil and corrosion inhibitor package ? at least, the nulon stuff i use is a all-in-one mixture

                          can't see any harm in having glycol in the cooling system - but you are right, it is just an antifreeze and maybe redundant in most areas in oz
                          No such thing as antiboil - that's my point. Most people believe that coolant is somehow able to increase substantially the boiling point of your water. This is completely incorrect, the water in your cooling system doesn't boil because the pressure of the system is above atmospheric. If you boil water at the top of mount Everest it with change phase at a lower temp than 100 deg C. Inversely, if you increase atmospheric pressure the boiling point goes up. Now increase the pressure even more ie inside your cooling system, and you have a substantially increased boiling point.


                          The other point to having a pressurized cooling system is of course that thermal transfer is more efficient, the water @*$#@*$#@*$#@*$#cules being more closely packed together.


                          All that is important in a cooling system is keeping mineral salt contamination to a minimum, and a corrosion inhibitor to reduce the likelihood of galvanic corrosion brought about by having iron and aluminium present in the same circuit.


                          When I flush the coolant in my Paj for the first time since I bought it, I won't be paying for "coolant" - it will be just demineralised water and corrosion inhibitor. No anti-freeze or "anti-boil". No witch doctory, no urban myths, I'll stick to junk science (by definition, science that does not further the interests of commercial industry).


                          If I ever leave a car overnight at Interlaken I'll be sure to have antifreeze in it. But as I live in QLD and not Tassie any more, I think I'm safe.


                          Then again, I have NO idea what is actually IN the corrosion inhibitor I put in my vehicles, so I am actually a hypocrite and no better at all...Hey they say it's a corrosion inhibitor so it must be ay? LOL...
                          1994 NJ GLS Auto, 3.0 LPG, 31s, HD springs, 50mm body lift, Firestone rear air bags

                          1993 NH GLS Manual, 3.0 LPG, 31s, Iron Man Torsion and Coils, Lovells Shocks, 30mm body lift, Manual Hubs, Extractors and god awful droning 2.5" exhaust

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                          • #14
                            Hi guys,the wagon was getting quiet hot today so had a look and found the coolant bottle was nearly full and under the rad cap i could see in to the rad obviously!but it looks fairly rusty in there too.
                            I am aware there is a small leak somewhere and have yet to find it but it hasn't been of too much concern and the levels were consistent.
                            I had added a Stop Leak (Wynn's)when doing the change.
                            I have a feeling it is not the original Radiator and it has a rad shop sticker on the top too but it may have just been fixed at some stage.
                            The liquid in the bottle was gunky at the end again near as bad as when i did the change and flush and it had a smell of Petrol too.
                            Any idea what could be going on?

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                            • #15
                              Hi Irish. It could be a few problems with the cooling system. Adding the stop leak does cause alot of problems to the cooling system with blocking the radiator or causing the thermostat no to operate correctly. It could also be a simple thing like a faulty cap. The stop leak could also cause the water to turn a rusty colour. We see alot of this in my shop every week. My radiator shop is at Burleigh if you are close PM me and i will check it out for you-

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