suspension on 91 nh

[hop234 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close hop234]

Hi,
We took our new {well new to us} 91 SWB for our first road and off road run on the weekend.
It appeared to dance a little too much on the highway.
I take it this means new shocks.
Just wondering if anyone can recommend a brand to replace them with or again, are we better to stick to orginal?
Thanks
Col

[old plodder Member Find all posts View Profile Close old plodder]

I replace shocks more often than most friends with pajs.
About every 60,000k front and about 80 to 100,000k rear.

If it is getting a little floaty in the front, may need replacing.

Don't need to replace with original.

Have a look and if they are koni or adjustable ranchos, maybe you just need to turn them up a little.

If not, the interesting bit begins.
What type of ride do you want?
What do you use the car for?
How much do you want to spend?
You will get quite varied views on this topic, bit like tyres !

[Roger Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Roger]

Suspension on a NH

I also have the same dilemma. I have a LWB 92 model 3.0 L V6. I have just completed a trip up to and across the Simpson Desert. On the last day through the desert the left rear shocker gave in, which made for an interesting few sand dunes. I can now stand on the back of the vehicle and easily get it to bottom out.

I intend to use my vehicle mainly for this type of driving, so therefore the vehicle will be quite heavily laden. I have a long range fuel tank ( 145 litres) plus I had a roof rack on which was mainly for a second spare tyre and two 20 L jerry cans and the back was well filled with fridge, other gear etc.

I am considering changing the springs, torsion bars and shock absorbers and wanted feedback from anyone who has done a similar thing with recommendations as to what manufacturers equipment works well. For example is an "Old Man Emu" set up the way to go ? or is Tough dog better etc?. Are linear springs better than progressive.?

Look forward to your comments.

Roger

[bounceferret Member Find all posts View Profile Close bounceferret]

I also have the same dilemma. I have a LWB 92 model 3.0 L V6. I have just completed a trip up to and across the Simpson Desert. On the last day through the desert the left rear shocker gave in, which made for an interesting few sand dunes. I can now stand on the back of the vehicle and easily get it to bottom out.

I intend to use my vehicle mainly for this type of driving, so therefore the vehicle will be quite heavily laden. I have a long range fuel tank ( 145 litres) plus I had a roof rack on which was mainly for a second spare tyre and two 20 L jerry cans and the back was well filled with fridge, other gear etc.

I am considering changing the springs, torsion bars and shock absorbers and wanted feedback from anyone who has done a similar thing with recommendations as to what manufacturers equipment works well. For example is an "Old Man Emu" set up the way to go ? or is Tough dog better etc?. Are linear springs better than progressive.?

Look forward to your comments.

Roger

I'm actually planning the same simpson trip during january (it's going to be hot). I recently replaced the suspension on my NH. I purchased Rancho RS5000 shocks, rockcrawler torsion bars and king springs for the rear. I didn't plan on buying the torsion bars simply due to their price, but after installing the new shocks and higher springs the "wound up" bars gave the car a disgustingly bad ride ( they were old though). After the new bars, she handles beautifully!

I am interested in installing a long range fuel tank before I head up. Could possibly give some information about yours? price? etc?

[keith h Member Find all posts View Profile Close keith h]

BounceFerret
"a disgustingly bad ride" could you describe please?

[bounceferret Member Find all posts View Profile Close bounceferret]

The car felt as though I had put bicycle pumps in as shock absorbers. The paj had massive body roll and wandered all over the road and any speed + 100km/h.
The bars also sagged almost over night since winding. I replaced the bars over the next day or so and instantly there was an improvement, far far less body roll, and much better cornering performance.
in this case it was worth replacing, costly but worth it.

[old plodder Member Find all posts View Profile Close old plodder]

I upgraded my rear suspension about 8 years ago for the same reason, trips wiht good loads.
Upgraded to the rear to medium range variable rate king springs with 2" lift, i.e. the middle of the range in the standard/heavy duty/super heavy duty.
Worked well.
But since then, the standard rubber bump assistant in the middle of the spring has fallen apart. If you look, the actual bump stop is at the outer ends of the axle, and the rubber inside the spring acts like an assisting rubber spring and compresses before the spring bottoms out.
Being over $200.00 each from Mitsu, I put air bags in for $300.00 for the pair.
Now the medium range king springs are a bit hard and I am thinking of going back to the standard rate variable king springs with 2" lift.
We travel with 135l long range tank, fridge, shelves, and roof rack, and are close if not over GVM fully loaded. Carry 60 to 100l of water and 2weeks of food on more remote trips with 2 spares, one on the roof rack.

[sunny Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close sunny]

Suspension on NH

Hi,
Might pay to check the passenger front wheel Idler arm - Jack up the passenger front wheel and grab the wheel and push back and forwards as if turning the steering wheel, watch where the shaft comes out the idler arm unit, if the bearings are gone you will see the idler arm shaft rock back and forward in the main body - It should have no free sideways movement.

Sunny

[Roger Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Roger]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you about the long range fuel tank. I bought mine from Brown Davis in Melbourne and fitted it myself. Cost was around $800. Expensive, but in my opinion better than carrying many jerry cans. Since buying it I have wondered whether fitting an additional fuel tank would have been better - you see some on ebay for around $150, they fit under the vehicle on the left hand side.

[bounceferret Member Find all posts View Profile Close bounceferret]

thanks roger,

I already called around to get some prices and setup options. The best i found a 145litre replacement tank. Price is $1000 fitted from long range automotive in lilydale. It's book in sometime in october.

They also do an AUX tank but it's mearly a storage unit for petrol. It simply pumps fuel from the 50 litre AUX tank to the main tank, I would just prefer a bigger tank. and it's more expensive too ....??

regards
steve

[NH-Mark Member Find all posts View Profile Close NH-Mark]

the LRA aux tank is more expensive because it has more cuts/welds etc than the main tank so you are paying for the extra labour - so i was told by TJM.

there is a company called 4wd systems that do a 148L tank for about $700 (not fitted) and if you have a 2 inch body lift they do a 163L for about $850.

[Easykill1978 Valued Member Find all posts View Profile Close Easykill1978]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you about the long range fuel tank. I bought mine from Brown Davis in Melbourne and fitted it myself. Cost was around $800. Expensive, but in my opinion better than carrying many jerry cans. Since buying it I have wondered whether fitting an additional fuel tank would have been better - you see some on ebay for around $150, they fit under the vehicle on the left hand side.

Can we get a pic of this?

I am planning a trip in my 91 paj super wagon (is what the book says)
and looking to put a nice big tank in her.. less fuel cans to carry.

[knakkers Member Find all posts View Profile Close knakkers]

On Boxing day sales, I purchased Monroe Magnam front & rear shocks & had front torsion bars raised 3inch to level out with the back springs.
I drive a 95 NJ LWB duel fuel 3.0ltre.
Orginally I was looking at a 45-50mm lift kit with Ironman Suspension for around $1100, which included springs, torsion bars, & foam shocks.
Couldn't afford that because, had to put new motor in just before xmas .
Anyway, I did have the original shocks in the Paj, now with the Monroe Magnams in & the front torsion bars raised, with wheel alignment, there is a massive change in comfort, handing, softer ride, on both, road & off-road.

Pricing,
-Ironman suspension wanted $1100 fitted without wheel alignment, but the whole car would have been raised 45-50mm. (which I still think it is a good price, compared to the other major 4x4 suspension brands)

Compared too
-Torsion bars raised 3inch to level Paj out, plus wheel alignment $99

-Magnam shocks, $192 for front & $186 for rear with xmas sales, plus 3 lazy hrs of my own in labour.

-My total price I spent was $477.

All in all, if you have the money to spend, or your prepared to spend, I supose go the full lift kit with shocks, but I'm very happy with the Monroe shocks & front torsion bar rise.



Cheers
Stuart

[Easykill1978 Valued Member Find all posts View Profile Close Easykill1978]

Yeah the monroe shocks are like the best.. as for the ironman lift,get the kit and diy, tho i would get new torsion (Sp?) bars but thats me.... i think you can get the kit for 800 or a little less,, from my understanding its no harder than doing shocks..

I got brand new red bull shocks (i think thats the name.. please forgive i have been sanding my bullbar today and after 4 hours am nakkerd.....) anyway the motor has been reconned (tho the missed the alti, gonna have to do that soon) and brand new shocks have been installed and new springs just before i got her.. tho recently i sprung a leak in the exhaust just before the muffler.. grr its small so gonna putty her up and i should be good to go..