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Magna engine swap, BIG project

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  • Magna engine swap, BIG project

    Hi everyone,

    I'm in the process of putting a Magna 6G72 into my Paj. The old Paj motor had a broken piston and spun bearing. I was ging to rebuild the Paj motor but there were a few weird things going on inside. The bore was badly scored, the combustion chamber was pock marked (from a piece of the piston banging around I reckon). The deciding factor was that the Paj engine (a reco Gem engine about 5 years ago) had 0.025 (thou I presume) in it! A weird size. And reboring was more expensive than a cheapo Magna.

    Things to note;
    - Aussie made 6G72's from the Magna don't have a prefix of 6G72 in the engine number.
    - Magna has 120 KW of power and slightly more torque but delivered higher in the rev range.
    - The blocks are the same!
    - Magna has 10:1 CR as opposed to Paj 8.9:1 CR (flat top pistons in Magna, dished in Paj)

    So I have the Magna engine out and on the engine stand. I can't for the life of me get the timing belt gear off the Paj crank so I might have to use the Magna oil pump. I can either, 1) use the Magna oil pump which means the AC compressor won't fit, 2) grind off the side of the Magna oil pump which the alternator mounts to on the Magna, tap and plug the oil pressure switch hole (see attached pic, a), 3) cut the timing belt gear off the Paj crank and use the Paj oil pump (see attached pic, b). I'm tempted to go option number 3.

    So far it looks like the things I need to change are everything except the block and its internals and heads with valve gear. I will use the Magna cams and valve gear.

    I painted the valve covers in Ford Blue hi temp paint. I washed them properly (in the laundry sink much to my wife's disgust, LOL) and got all the old paint off, they look good (see attached pic, c).

    I'm waiting on the engine gasket kit and clutch kit to turn up which should be this week some time. Next weekend I put it all back together. I nthe meantime I will potter about and cleanstuff. :-)

    My Paj (see attached pic, d)

    The donor Magna (see attached pic, e)

    Mick.
    Attached Files
    1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

  • #2
    Sounds like you have a lot of work to do. Should be a good runner when it is finished. Let us know how it goes with the magna heads etc, more torque, better power etc as Ive heard that the magna motors complete with heads in the pajero seem to be better. Bob
    98 NL GLS 3500. Now with a Bocar bullbar and 265/75/16 tyres. Waiting for a snorkel and UHF.
    Now with 7" HID


    Forget the health food, I need all the preservatives I can get. Alcohol is a preservative isnt it?

    Comment


    • #3
      scruffy i had a old nf pajero 6g72 did a complete magna donk swap bolted on paj stuff onto magna block and heads the oil pump is a no go if ya wanting air con as bracket wont go on went alot better and more power i found IMHO not really that big of a job i reckon depends on how good we all are with the tools
      Formely 93 NH Pajero LWB, 3.0L V6 NOW OWN 2004 GU Patrol Wagon T/Diesel 3LT
      WITH 4'' TOUGHDOG SUSPENSION, FULL 3'' TBE, EGT & BOOST GAUGE 33'' MUDDIES, 21'' LED LIGHT BAR

      Comment


      • #4
        So the job goes on, slowly. I have attached all the peripherals to the Magna engine, cleaned lots of stuff up and fixed little issues.

        I bought a genuine Mitsubishi engine gasket kit off ebay for $210. (see pic)

        I sprayed the valve covers blue. Looks good hey? (see pic)

        With a bit of luck I'll have it back in this weekend. I just need to reattach the flywheel and put on the new clutch.

        I am worried about the input shaft bearing. When I ran it with previous engine there sounded like an input shaft noise.

        Anyone done an input shaft bearing?
        Attached Files
        1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

        Comment


        • #5
          Change the sprigot bearing while you're there(bearing in the flywheel), it's a generic bearing you can get at any local machine or bearing shop and just gets wacked out with a socket and hammer and new one goes in the same just make sure you use a socket that fits the outer race of the bearing.

          The input shaft bearing noise is something i'm acustomed to on both transmissions i have haha, meant to be easy to change on the V5MT1 box as the bell housing is removable and it's just behind there, but i haven't gotten around to mine yet. If you're going to do it, i'd do it now while the engine is out as the box will come straight out. It is a bit trickier (or should i say "more involved") to remove when the engine is back in.

          Just an fyi, do the bell housing bolts before installing engine mounts as once the engine sits up high on the mounts the two top ones become a pain to get to with a spanner
          97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
          97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Pauly. I replaced the spigot, no worries there.

            The engine is in the car and going now. I did the engine mounts before the bell housing bolts, but I got the 2 top bell housing bolts done without too much drama.

            The input shaft bearing is noisy but I can live with that.

            So it's going. Took a bit to figure out the dizzy timing. Tried pointing the rotor at number one but that didn't work. There are a couple of marks on the dizzy shaft that need to be lined up...... Once lined up the engine started right up. The fast idle valve was stuck so I bought a 2nd hand throttle body (couldn't remove the plastic piston inside the fast idle valve for love nor money).

            Replaced the dizzy cap, leads and fuel filter too.

            The car is surging a bit. It's an unpredictable surging, generally under load. I will do more testing and try to figure out what it is. I suspect fuel pressure.

            I have attached a couple of pics of my rig with the Magna engine and a pic of the stuck fast idle valve.

            Mick
            Attached Files
            1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

            Comment


            • #7
              Always wondered what the fast idle valve looked like inside,how do you know it is stuck what should it look like.
              Congrats on the engine swap.

              Comment


              • #8
                It is suppossed to close as the engine temp goes up. It's essentially a wax expansion thermostat. The black plastic piston you can see in the picture slides out to cover air holes, decreasing the air let into the plenum chamber.

                I put it it in a pot with water on the stove and boiled it. It didn't move. Apparently that piston can be unscrewed but mine would not budge.

                Mick
                1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

                Comment


                • #9
                  So the big black disc with the hole in the centre, well that disc should unscrew anti clockwise with needle nose pliers. Once you've cleaned it all out, screw the disc in further to make the valve close at a lower temperature, screw it out for it to close at a higher temperature.

                  Ideally you want the Fast Air Idle Valve closing at a lower temperature than your thermostat opens. i.e. you want it handing over control to the Idle Speed Control Motor once the engine is warm, otherwise you'll be wasting fuel at the traffic lights. The setting of the FAIV doesn't have to be spot on, just needs to give the engine more air when cold and close when it's up to temp.
                  Andrew

                  MQ Triton GLX+ dual cab ute, EGR canopy, roof vent, tubliner and towbar. 6 speed manual, almost stock

                  Treg 1.5T Offroad Trailer with Polyblock Hitch, genuine Pajero wheels, 2x spares, Cooper 31" ATRs, four jerry can holders, tie down rails and soon to come tonneau cover

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Andrew, have you managed to unscrew one of those black plastic pistons? This is the first time I've had a go at one of these and mine would not budge.

                    I still have the old one. Now that I have a working one in the car I might try again on the old one using a bit more force. I even wondered if I could make a tool for the job instead of pointy nose pliers.

                    Mick
                    1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey mate what are the two marks you lined up on the dizzy to get the timing right? Have read this somewhere but can't remember where
                      Originally posted by Micko66 View Post
                      Thanks Pauly. I replaced the spigot, no worries there.

                      The engine is in the car and going now. I did the engine mounts before the bell housing bolts, but I got the 2 top bell housing bolts done without too much drama.

                      The input shaft bearing is noisy but I can live with that.

                      So it's going. Took a bit to figure out the dizzy timing. Tried pointing the rotor at number one but that didn't work. There are a couple of marks on the dizzy shaft that need to be lined up...... Once lined up the engine started right up. The fast idle valve was stuck so I bought a 2nd hand throttle body (couldn't remove the plastic piston inside the fast idle valve for love nor money).

                      Replaced the dizzy cap, leads and fuel filter too.

                      The car is surging a bit. It's an unpredictable surging, generally under load. I will do more testing and try to figure out what it is. I suspect fuel pressure.

                      I have attached a couple of pics of my rig with the Magna engine and a pic of the stuck fast idle valve.

                      Mick

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        mate id say its the same as the conversion I did with the sonata g6at 3ltr v6 the oil pump is fine an easy way around it is to simply cut the side off where the ac goes and there is a oil gallery just tap a thread in there and plug it with a bolt then no need to change complete pumps and can still put ur ac back in
                        Last edited by green machine 4by 1; 26-05-13, 06:30 PM. Reason: spelling
                        Feint harted never a pig

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dean69 View Post
                          Hey mate what are the two marks you lined up on the dizzy to get the timing right? Have read this somewhere but can't remember where
                          When you pull the dizzy out there is a small dent in the drive cog near the grub screw that holds it on and a small mark on the housing. They are small but need to lined up.

                          If you pull the dizzy out and have a close look you'll see. But only pull the dizzy out if you need to. :-)

                          Mick
                          1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by green machine 4by 1 View Post
                            mate id say its the same as the conversion I did with the sonata g6at 3ltr v6 the oil pump is fine an easy way around it is to simply cut the side off where the ac goes and there is a oil gallery just tap a thread in there and plug it with a bolt then no need to change complete pumps and can still put ur ac back in
                            I was going to do that but used the Paj oil pump instead. I'm glad I did the oil pressure is good.
                            1995 NJ Paj GLS, 3.5 DOHC 24 valve, manual.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Micko66 View Post
                              Andrew, have you managed to unscrew one of those black plastic pistons? This is the first time I've had a go at one of these and mine would not budge.

                              I still have the old one. Now that I have a working one in the car I might try again on the old one using a bit more force. I even wondered if I could make a tool for the job instead of pointy nose pliers.

                              Mick
                              Yeah, I just used a small set of pointy nosed pliers and pushed the points into the divots on the disc and turned. The pliers that I used weren't long, which I imagine helped with getting the torque onto the disc. You might need to push down firmly on the pliers as you turn to get it moving. Be careful not to stab yourself though. Have you tried turning the disc the other way as well? I'm pretty sure out is anti-clockwise, but to break the tension try both ways.
                              Andrew

                              MQ Triton GLX+ dual cab ute, EGR canopy, roof vent, tubliner and towbar. 6 speed manual, almost stock

                              Treg 1.5T Offroad Trailer with Polyblock Hitch, genuine Pajero wheels, 2x spares, Cooper 31" ATRs, four jerry can holders, tie down rails and soon to come tonneau cover

                              Comment

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