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trailing arm to chassis bush

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  • trailing arm to chassis bush

    looking for some info on the trailing arm to chassis bushes, couldnt find much on a search.

    bush on the rhs can spin freely and needs to be replaced, so my question is, do i have to remove the arm from the diff and compleatly drop the arm off to replace these bushes??

    i was planing on doing them while im changing the rear springs and shocks.

    are there any tips you guys have for doing these bushes??

    Thanks
    '93 NH 3Ltr V6 MAN, petrol\lpg, 31 ATs

  • #2
    You will have to remove trailing arm, but make sure you undo the big nut before you drop the arm from the diff. Makes it hard if you forget.

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    • #3
      Do one side at a time, if you take both off at the same time the rear diff has a tenancy to want to go walkies or the diff pumpkin twist over making it extra work to get it all back together again. Not impossible, just a pain
      Get yourself a big cheater bar for undoing the nuts/bolts, it'll help. That and spray all nuts with WD40 or similar the night before.

      Jack the car up enough to get jack stands under the chassis but the tyres are sill on the ground when you let the jack down, then chock the tyres so there is less chance of the rear diff moving.
      Remember to take off all the little bolts that hold the handbrake cable and so forth to the rear arms. Look two or three times all over the arms as there are some little bolts on each side of the arm and you don't want to miss one. Once you get the arm off completely it is a pain to get that one you missed undone while everything is hanging from that one little bolt.

      IMO if the front bushes are cactus then it is likely the rear bushes are cactus as well (mine were) so while you have the arms out replace them as well, saves having to take it all apart again in the future. Since you doing the rear arms, you may as well do the panhard rod while you're there I reckon
      2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
      2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

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      • #4
        the bushes to the diff have been done before, i think, they are red and look ok, i dont know why the guy before me didnt change the arm to chassis ones at the same time
        '93 NH 3Ltr V6 MAN, petrol\lpg, 31 ATs

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        • #5
          Sounds like you might have nolathane or similar bushes in the diff end. When you take the arms out to change the chassis end bushes take the center tube out of the diff end bushes and clean and regrease the bushes before you put it all back together (remember to use the right grease).
          Gives you a chance to check them to be sure they are still OK and gives them a new lease of life
          2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
          2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

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          • #6
            the right grease??
            what sort of grease should i be looking for.
            ive got a few types of grease in she shed, would wheel bearing grease be ok?? i cant remember what grease i got in the gun for all the grease points, but maybe use that stuff??

            what do you guys use??

            Thanks
            '93 NH 3Ltr V6 MAN, petrol\lpg, 31 ATs

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            • #7
              molybdenum di sulphite ( black stuff) is good, so is Lithium complex normally red or blue, if it is HTB grease and yellowy brown it is clay based and the least preferred for that sort of application.

              I would just go and buy a tube of lithium complex as it is the most suitable for vehicle applications being good for wheel bearings and chassis lubrication as well as bushes without being a mesy as the Moly grease, the only thing i wouldnt use it for is CV's, as there is a better grease for that even though it can be used for them.
              Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
              Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

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              • #8
                cool thats, and im looking at some arm to chassis bushes and there selling for $49, is that a reasnable price??
                this is them http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Superpro-...ht_2702wt_1018
                '93 NH 3Ltr V6 MAN, petrol\lpg, 31 ATs

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                • #9
                  Grease for Nolathane bushes --> http://www.nolathane.com.au/faq.php#q5

                  From memory superpro bushes use a slightly different grease compared to Nolathane but I can't seem to find the info on their website at the moment.


                  If it helps, I know Repco sell the bushes you are after. They are MaxiTrac brand however from my checking around they are made by Nolathane. Can't give you a price as I got a complete car kit (everything) and don't have the reciept anymore.
                  2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
                  2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    thats a reasonable price on those.
                    Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
                    Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

                    Comment

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