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Glueable CV boots

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  • Glueable CV boots

    So while greasing the front end I found that my left inner cv boot is split. Now had anyone bought the boots that come with a glueable split? I see there is a UK seller selling one.

    Have people had luck with these?

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=350859506336
    2012 NW with some fruit

  • #2
    my boots where old and cracked and when i wound the tortion bars up that finally finished them off, so a few months ago i replaced with one of the split boots you are talking about, it worked really well and is still holding on there.

    you will have to get some new boot clamps because the ones they provide are really crap.

    just clean all the grease and dirt of the shaft before you wrap the new boot around, and where the gloves they give you because that glue is really really good,.

    well worth the exrta couple of buck and saves you a heap of time
    '93 NH 3Ltr V6 MAN, petrol\lpg, 31 ATs

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    • #3
      Originally posted by days95 View Post
      my boots where old and cracked and when i wound the tortion bars up that finally finished them off, so a few months ago i replaced with one of the split boots you are talking about, it worked really well and is still holding on there.

      you will have to get some new boot clamps because the ones they provide are really crap.

      just clean all the grease and dirt of the shaft before you wrap the new boot around, and where the gloves they give you because that glue is really really good,.

      well worth the exrta couple of buck and saves you a heap of time
      I too have used them. They're very good! Come with 1 year warranty or something. We have done plenty of offroading with them on and they are going strong. As previous poster said the clips arent great. I will use cable ties next time...
      1994 NJ, 3L Auto V6
      2005 NP, 3.8L Auto V6

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      • #4
        After reading this thread

        http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopi...er=asc&start=0

        I think I will just buy new boots and replace them as they split or even replace all the boots at once next year. Since I have been in the sand and my boot would have been split then I will give it a damn good clean at the same time. It might take a few more hours to remove the shafts but it seems like a less risky option, than having a split CV coming un-glued (EDIT : The glue does look strong though http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLrGNU_t83Y).

        Unless you guys reckon that I could satisfactorily de-grease the cv, and regrease, and then glue a split CV while still on the car? Is much of the inner CV arrangement accessible once the boot comes off?

        Thanks in advance.
        Last edited by damo03; 17-11-13, 10:12 PM. Reason: more information found.
        2012 NW with some fruit

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        • #5
          Those boots are only a temp fix and nice to have in the car for really long trips.
          But they simply can't replace a proper closed boot over time.
          There i a reason why those glue on boots are illegal to use in many countries.
          '94 2.8TD, 2" lift, low mount winch, bullbar, roofrack, UHF, custom drawers, HID spotties, cam, GPS....
          Password for all my files: downunder

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          • #6
            Many people replace the whole driveshaft (inc. CV joint) when the boot splits. In this way, you don't need to muck around with boot clips or regreasing the CV joint. This is quite cost and time effective.
            Andrew

            MQ Triton GLX+ dual cab ute, EGR canopy, roof vent, tubliner and towbar. 6 speed manual, almost stock

            Treg 1.5T Offroad Trailer with Polyblock Hitch, genuine Pajero wheels, 2x spares, Cooper 31" ATRs, four jerry can holders, tie down rails and soon to come tonneau cover

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            • #7
              to be honest, once you've done the tear down a few times it should easily be an under an hour job. get the proper oem boot ($15) rather than a universal (as I've found them to be a fair bit thinner) and use those massive zip ties rather than the steel belt crap and you're laughing.
              1995 GLS 3.5, optioned to the shhizam with just couple of mods

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              • #8
                i found i was doing so many cv's once i put the hoist up i bought similar to this, makes life a lot easier fitting replacement boots and works better than the zip tie.

                http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CV-JOINT-...c2a71d7&_uhb=1
                Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
                Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

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                • #9
                  I have a special tool that is used for tightening the metal clamps. cable ties are never good enough and u always get grease leakage.

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                  • #10
                    Sikaflex works well in fixing CV boots.

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                    • #11
                      This one is a bastard of a tear, but I will put some sikaflex onto it to keep it dust free until I can replace the boot.
                      2012 NW with some fruit

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                      • #12
                        All interesting ideas but the best thing to do is borrow an air powered cv boot spreader. Remove the shaft from the hub only then cut the old boot off. Apply new cv grease and stretch the new boot on. Metal bands are the best but are difficult to fit without correct tool. zip ties will do the trick. New boots are 10 bucks each from bursons including a pack of grease and bands.
                        NJ Pajero 3500 DOHC AUTO

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