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NJ soft on drivers side after frontend overhaul

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  • NJ soft on drivers side after frontend overhaul

    Hi guys how are ya all?.

    I replaced all bushes, ball joints, tierod ends last weekend (gees what a job to do by yourself lol!!), after put all back together and adjust everything, took for a drive up road and it felt soft on Drivers side, so brought back home and adjusted torsion bar, took for another drive, still the same,
    Could the torsion bar be sagged like a coil spring could be?,
    When I go round a left hand corner, the car seems to dive a bit, but going round a right corner with all weight on left its great, wish it was like it on drivers side. Even before I replaced all parts it still drove like a pig,

    Any suggestions would be great

  • #2
    Last edited by Bogger; 25-11-13, 03:16 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Bogger View Post
      If you had shockers out and layed them down did you bleed them out before refitting ?
      Question from the un-initiated! What is the proceedure here? Cycling?

      Was there a question mark over the shock or shocks before the overhaul?

      Cheers
      2013 NW GLXR (MY14) Auto

      Comment


      • #4
        The Shocks are only few months old Gabriel Blue Riders, laying down shocks and letting them bleed?,WTF?!!!!
        Its like if the torsion bar has lost its tension, like if a big fat person has weakened it before I got it.
        I have another spare torsion bar that i'll try,

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        • #5
          Originally posted by NJ EXCEED View Post
          The Shocks are only few months old Gabriel Blue Riders, laying down shocks and letting them bleed?,WTF?!!!!
          Its like if the torsion bar has lost its tension, like if a big fat person has weakened it before I got it.
          I have another spare torsion bar that i'll try,
          WTF ? With that attitude look it up yourself
          Last edited by Bogger; 25-11-13, 04:46 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Torsion bars are a spring and they do eventually wear out, more importantly they are also for specific sides of the vehicle as the spring only rotates correctly in one direction.

            So a) did you have them out and then put them back in the same side,

            B) how old are hey as they could simply be worn out.
            Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
            Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by schnitzel View Post
              Torsion bars are a spring and they do eventually wear out, more importantly they are also for specific sides of the vehicle as the spring only rotates correctly in one direction.

              So a) did you have them out and then put them back in the same side,

              B) how old are hey as they could simply be worn out.
              Hey mate thanx for that, yes i did take out but not right out of vehicle, only just enough to clear the bottom control arm bolt, as i replace the chassis and control arm bushes aswell,
              When i put all back together i took note of the marks on the ancor and torsion bar, i also had workshop manual aswell just make sure i was doing correctly!!

              I reckon they are the original torsion bars too mate, bout 19 years old lol!!.
              I,d like to upgrade them actually, what brand would be good for touring, not 4 wheel driving!?, i,ve heard Sway Away are good, whats peoples thoughts on Iron Man and Tough Dogs?

              Comment


              • #8
                Dobinsons in my book.
                Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
                Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bogger View Post
                  WTF ? With that attitude look it up yourself
                  Yeah well I will look it up myself man, just never heard of bleeding the shocks that's all, I was gunna ring you and ask you for advice on how to do, do you mean has the shock fully extended when out mate?.
                  I just don't know if my torsion bar has weakened over age etc, or my front right shock has weakened aswell, real shit roads out here at the moment.

                  P.S-- Sorry if I offended you mate

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by schnitzel View Post
                    Dobinsons in my book.
                    Ok cool thanx for that, are they also good for touring on the road?, or 4 wheel driving?, or both?.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      No probs ................. the written word doesn't come out as it should some times ................. love the net.
                      May not be your prob but if the shock has been laid over it can get air in it and if you operated it on the ground you would note that it can move with no resisitance for the first inch or so then after being operated thru it's stroke or pumped up it will be fine as long as fitted without being laid down again. This can give you initial excess dive when suspension loaded.
                      Again I am presuming from reading that the problem wasn't there before o/haul on front end ?
                      Not all shocks are prone to this depends on design / type but I've never fitted a set without pumping them up as a precaution either way

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bogger View Post
                        No probs ................. the written word doesn't come out as it should some times ................. love the net.
                        May not be your prob but if the shock has been laid over it can get air in it and if you operated it on the ground you would note that it can move with no resisitance for the first inch or so then after being operated thru it's stroke or pumped up it will be fine as long as fitted without being laid down again. This can give you initial excess dive when suspension loaded.
                        Again I am presuming from reading that the problem wasn't there before o/haul on front end ?
                        Not all shocks are prone to this depends on design / type but I've never fitted a set without pumping them up as a precaution either way
                        Yep, I always bleed new shocks before installing.
                        Silver NT VRX Di-D

                        ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

                        My Build Thread - HERE

                        Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bogger View Post
                          No probs ................. the written word doesn't come out as it should some times ................. love the net.
                          May not be your prob but if the shock has been laid over it can get air in it and if you operated it on the ground you would note that it can move with no resisitance for the first inch or so then after being operated thru it's stroke or pumped up it will be fine as long as fitted without being laid down again. This can give you initial excess dive when suspension loaded.
                          Again I am presuming from reading that the problem wasn't there before o/haul on front end ?
                          Not all shocks are prone to this depends on design / type but I've never fitted a set without pumping them up as a precaution either way
                          Hey Bogger thanx for that advice bout air in the shocks and to bleed the air out, I didn't understand before but now I do, and I,ve noticed with some shocks when you push them down they do move with no resisitance for a inch or so till pumped up, so that's the air in the shock aye?.
                          Thanx again mate I appreciate the advice, if I was closer I,d come round and have a few beers with ya!

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