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  • Parts Which break?

    Hi all,

    As I have joined a 4wd club recently and am likely to put the paj under more strain as i get more experienced, What are the parts (which matter) that I am most likely break?

    Front drive shafts/CV's?
    Rear drive shafts/CV's?

    I have the 3lt auto if that helps and it currently does not have a suspension lift.

    Cheers Wooly
    '95 NJ GLS LWB 3.0Lt Auto, 3" Body lift, Bocar Bar , 2 x 55W 7" HIDs , PRM 8030 UHF , Snorkel.

  • #2
    Water pump.
    Starter motor fills with oil.
    Fuel pump.
    Brake sencing proportioning valve.
    Rear Cam seal, hence oil leak kills starter motor.
    Top radiator tank cracks.
    Thermo fan free spins.
    Clutch master.
    Clutch slave.
    Rear heater hoses.

    These parts have failed on me 220K to 309K Cheers.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Roughasguts View Post
      Water pump.
      Starter motor fills with oil.
      Fuel pump.
      Brake sencing proportioning valve.
      Rear Cam seal, hence oil leak kills starter motor.
      Top radiator tank cracks.
      Thermo fan free spins.
      Clutch master.
      Clutch slave.
      Rear heater hoses.

      These parts have failed on me 220K to 309K Cheers.
      The water pump will be fine provided it is replaced with every timing belt or before 200,000 km. The pump has to be removed to replace the timing belt, so why put an old pump back in?.

      The front CV's will get a flogging if you crank the torsion bars too far. If the CV's are original, I probably wouldn't lift the suspension any more than 2", as the CV's have worn themselves to the existing position. Alternatively, you might consider changing the CV's & then crank the bars as far as is practical.
      Starter motors don't fill with oil if the rear cam seals & the rocker cover gaskets are replaced, to stop the leak. The oil leak drama continued onto the 3.5L motors as well, but is perfectly manageable. The left bank rear cam seal is the more common leak. Mine is leaking again, but I'm not overly concerned because it only leaks onto the exhaust. The starter motor is on the R/H side.
      The fuel pump issue?. What issue?. No doubt a few may have failed, but I've never read of or seen this being a common or regular issue. In tank pumps are generally very reliable, or every manufacturer would have massive warranty claims against them as they all use them.
      I have never seen or heard of the brake proportioning valve becoming a problem either. But it is quite possible that there could be a failure somewhere.
      Rear cam seal - as above. Yes, it is a problem, but a simple one to fix. The genuine seals & gaskets do seem to have a better service life.
      The top radiator tank is not an issue. This is a Pajero, not a pre 2000 Hi Lux. They are very reliable provided that the radiator is serviced each time the timing belt is changed, as the water pump should be too. It would be possible for the tank to crack if the radiator hasn't been serviced correctly &/or the resolder job was very poor. My NL still runs the original radiator, it gets serviced every 100,000 km & coolant changed every 45,000 km.
      The thermo fan will free spin under 2 conditions: When the cooling system doesn't require the extra cooling capacity of the fan & when the fluid in the coupling has dried out or leaked out. This is common to every car on the road as the thermo fan system is a common part. There is the option of electric fans as well, as a replacement unit.
      The clutch master & slave cylinders will wear out rapidly if the fluid is not replaced every 2 years. Same with the brakes. The fluid is silicone based & is hygroscopic - it will attract water like flies to road kill. The moisture creates rust in the cylinders, this moisture being created by changes in operating & ambient temperatures & the rust then cuts the seals out & scores the cylinder bore when you jump on the pedal. How many times have you seen a new bottle of fluid thrown in the bin because the mechanic left the lid off it overnight?.
      Heater hoses are usually good provided that the coolant in the cooling system is replaced every 2 years or 45,000 km.
      Your car is only as reliable as the bloke doing the servicing. If you want to skip a bit of it, that's fine, it's your car, but you generally have to pay more than you saved, at the other end later down the track. My step daughter owns an XR6 Turbo Falcon. Beautiful car, unbelievable to drive. Her f***wit partner was getting it serviced for $80, by a mate mechanic who knows all about cars. Well, the cut price services cost me $2500 to get the car roadworthy again, all work done by the mechanic who does my Pajero & Outlander. You only ever get what you pay for. If your Pajero is properly serviced according to the book, you will have very reliable motoring for years to come. They are a very underated 4X4 & you will look hard to find something better. I will be selling the NL next year but will be getting another Pajero.

      Matt.

      Comment


      • #4
        Just a caution on brake fluid .... not all are silicone based most are mineral and the two should never be mixed. If changing from mineral to silicone based all rubbers should be renewed if you want to be technically correct on the procedure.
        From reading the start of thread, I read 3 litre so presume we are talking NH / NJ type models ? Hey give the ole girls a break as their pushing 20 years old now so as has been said without proper maintenance sure they'll break but then I'm wearing out also as I travel the bumps in the road that lifes highway throws at ya.
        An easy way is simply carry a second hand dizzy, ecu and fuel pump and that will cover most of the get you back home scenarios as most other failures can be "bush" rigged to get mobile again.

        Comment


        • #5
          very few road cars run the silicon based brake fluid and nothing that is mainstream as the cost is prohibitive at nearly $100 a litre trade price. Anyone who wants to run silicon can but the need to replace all seals and pipes before they do as the mineral and silicon cannot be mixed at all.
          Silicon brake fluid is mainly used in racecar applications as it has a much higher boiling point and thus resists fade much better, downside is a shorter service life than mineral as well as a much greater cost.

          Both are hydroscopic ( i.e. absorb moisture from the air).

          As for things that break regularly on these, nothing any different form most cars related to the age and condition of the vehicle, i normally just carry spare hoses and belts and a small toolbox. Most important stuff is good recovery gear as that will be used, preferably to pull someone else out.
          Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
          Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica

          Comment


          • #6
            Particularly being an auto, consider getting a spare starter motor. They are cheap from wreckers. They aren't a big fan of mud.
            MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
            Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by shocker1 View Post
              The top radiator tank is not an issue. This is a Pajero, not a pre 2000 Hi Lux. They are very reliable provided that the radiator is serviced each time the timing belt is changed, as the water pump should be too. It would be possible for the tank to crack if the radiator hasn't been serviced correctly &/or the resolder job was very poor.
              Sorry but i have to disagree with Shocker1 on this...

              The top radiator tank does crack and according to the radiator place that repaired mine, it is a common problem with gen 2s.
              Silver NT VRX Di-D

              | ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | airbags | Cooper AT3 LT's | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank in rear seat well | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

              My Build Thread - HERE

              Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

              Comment


              • #8
                Things that break, no ones mentioned Head Gaskets.
                91 NH Dual Fuel 3ltr V6 Auto GLS Tri Pack with rear locker, 3" Lift, 33" Federal M/T, 100w 9" spotties & 3 stubby holders.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the reply's guys. I will go through and check those components and start buying a few spares.

                  Found on thing not mentioned :P

                  I snapped the exhaust where it bends down near the bumper. luckly it will be a cheap fix :P
                  '95 NJ GLS LWB 3.0Lt Auto, 3" Body lift, Bocar Bar , 2 x 55W 7" HIDs , PRM 8030 UHF , Snorkel.

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