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  • Steering dramas

    Hey all - after much researching and asking shops around town I thought I would start this thread up.

    The basic rundown is that my car has been wandering a bit on the road/under braking and it pulls right while driving (poor alignment provably doesn't help this). I took the chance this arvo to take it to a brake and steering shop in kewdale who wiggled the wheels and said basically all the steering linkages are rooted.

    I was a bit skeptical about this as I've replaced basically all these linkages over the past 2 years with the road safe branded ones - but not all at once. It was explained to me that replacing parts at individual times puts more pressure on the older joints and causes them to wear out quicker - makes sense and with a combination of my lift, Big muddies and steel rims would cause this quick wear.

    Now I am pretty green when it comes to checking for this type of wear so I was wondering if anyone, particularly the guys running bigger lifts and tyres, could offer me any advice . Could 18-24 months be enough to wear down these new parts? or does this sounds right and this is just something you compromise when you want to rum bigger tyres and lifts?

    The blokes showed me the wear by grabbing the tie rods and twisting them - this was very easy to do. is this the correct way to check this wear?

    I will say my idler arm has obvious play in it and there is some in the Pittman arm but otherwise I thought everything else was ok? He proposed replacing the whole steering links with a brand called protex for about $350 which I'm considering seriously as I'm very sick of the wandering.

    Cheers
    1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

    Now pending: Nothing

  • #2
    afaik these model pajero's go through suspension parts pretty quick espically pitman and ider arms etc

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah I've heard this but I'm keen on learning how to judge what a worn steering link looks feels like for myself. Surely people aren't chewing through a whole steering system every 2 or so years
      1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

      Now pending: Nothing

      Comment


      • #4
        Depwnds how oftwn you go off road.
        Fyi yes the rods etc are supposed to twist, not very easily but at 1-2yrs old they wouldn't be hard to twist. Protex are a very decent brand for steering components, so is trans steering I beleive.
        Best way is to have front wheels off ground and have somebody jiggle the wheel and look for play in the joints, this is the best way to find worn joints.

        As for wandering, this could be a mixture of worn bushes, wheel bearings and ball joints etc so I'd get onto them. With a big lift and bigger tyres it's normal for the steering to feel abnormal which is probably owed to the angles the joints are stressed to.
        97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
        97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

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        • #5
          The Roadsafe brand are not good quality parts and with a lifted IFS running bigger tyres and rims I think you were lucky to get more than 12 months out of them. Lifting an IFS places heaps of strain on the steering components so to get them to last use good quality parts with grease nipples and keep the grease up to them. I'd also replace your ball joints while you are at it and also check the condition of the control arm rubbers as these can and do contribute to wandering

          Mark

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          • #6
            Idler and pitman arm are prone to fail on the Pajero, I had massive dramas with mine earlier on.
            Mitsu replaced them shortly after I got the car and only a year later I was told during an alignment that they can't do it as long as have worn out pitman and idler arms!
            Was a bit shocked and went back to Mitsu to complain - they were not interested as they claim to give only 10.000 warranty on such parts.
            Next try was with parts sourced from Bursons, lasted about 18 month before failing again.
            Now I use some noname brand from Japan that I ordered on Ebay, bit over two years and still going fine.
            Nasty thing about our front end is that it only takes one worn part to wear out most of the rest, unlike a solid front axle our system is overcome by problems that would not exists if the front end would be designed for off road instead of road use.

            One tip I got after my second replacement was to change the way I drive off road.
            We all love to be in full control in the bush, but in terms of steering this can be fatal for some parts:
            On bad tracks or when completely off the beaten track most people tend to hold the steering wheel really tight so the car goes exactly where you want it to - this should not always be done!
            For example on a rocky track the car will be hard to keep exactly where you want it, if you force the teering to stay on track all forces from the steering column will interact with the opposite forces transfered over the wheels from the ground.
            Of course this puts a lot of stress on all components especially the steering arms.
            But if you only hold the wheel so you go in the general direction you can feel how the wheels turn it a bit while going over the rocks.
            Let it do it's thing and correct only where necessary and without force - most of the times you will find the sweet spot with some experience by noticing the steering wheel becomes easy to turn again.
            Please don't let go of the steering wheel so it can slip, just hold it so your wheels can help you finding the correct way over the track.
            Other option is to fit a steering dampner but I thing for our limited suspension they are overkill.
            '94 2.8TD, 2" lift, low mount winch, bullbar, roofrack, UHF, custom drawers, HID spotties, cam, GPS....
            Password for all my files: downunder

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the info people - from what I am reading it appears that this bloke is telling the truth. I replaced my idler arm about a year before most of the others got done and I knew it was well and truly rooted (I just wasn't sure about the other parts).

              I was looking at the car while it was on the hoist and there was alot of free play in each wheel (more so the passenger side of the car). I think that the drivers side isn't too bad but as mentioned (by just about everyone), new parts will put pressure on the older ones causing excessive wear so I may as well do the whole lot done.

              I had my balljoints replaced with the steering components 18 months ago and was concerned that the upper ones might be buggered but from what I could see with the mechanic yesterday, the ball joints and control arm bushes are fine.

              I do run a damper and like to think my offroad driving style isn't too wreckless but at the end of the day I'm away/offroad/camping/etc. a fair bit and with my lift and tyres, although I'm not impressed about having to replace my steering again - I can reason with it.

              thanks again
              1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

              Now pending: Nothing

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Downunder35m View Post
                One tip I got after my second replacement was to change the way I drive off road.
                We all love to be in full control in the bush, but in terms of steering this can be fatal for some parts:
                On bad tracks or when completely off the beaten track most people tend to hold the steering wheel really tight so the car goes exactly where you want it to - this should not always be done!
                For example on a rocky track the car will be hard to keep exactly where you want it, if you force the teering to stay on track all forces from the steering column will interact with the opposite forces transfered over the wheels from the ground.
                Of course this puts a lot of stress on all components especially the steering arms.
                But if you only hold the wheel so you go in the general direction you can feel how the wheels turn it a bit while going over the rocks.
                Let it do it's thing and correct only where necessary and without force - most of the times you will find the sweet spot with some experience by noticing the steering wheel becomes easy to turn again.
                Please don't let go of the steering wheel so it can slip, just hold it so your wheels can help you finding the correct way over the track.
                Other option is to fit a steering dampner but I thing for our limited suspension they are overkill.
                This is great advice! I'm definitely going to adopt this trend for future drives.

                I'm toying with the idea of replacing my tyres at the moment and was thinking about putting my alloys back on instead of running the heavier steelies. Before people point this out, I am aware a 285/75 can't legally fit on the standard Pajero alloy but if it going to help my steering out - I'll give it half a chance.
                1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

                Now pending: Nothing

                Comment


                • #9
                  For the record (doesnt sound like its your problem but for others reading) replacing my tyres fixed my onroad handling a lot. Used to wander and tram track badly til I got new rubber fitted.
                  MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
                  Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

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