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NL pajero 3.5 6g74 to 3.8 380 6g75 conversion

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  • NL pajero 3.5 6g74 to 3.8 380 6g75 conversion

    Hello Everyone,

    I'm about half way through my 6g75 conversion and was going to put some info up about the conversion.

    1st of all. Its a very easy job. Use everything from the 3.5, except the heads and block from the 3.8. Almost everything bolts up.

    Things that don't work -

    sump

    The sump needs some work, you need a m6 tap to put 2 extra bolt holes into the block. Very easy. Supprising how soft the block is.

    The oil pickup doesn't fit either, the support brackets need to be cut off and I used some wire ties to hold it, im sure there is a better way, but I am happy with this.

    Engine mounts

    Drivers side needs a spacer behind one bolt, simple. EDIT - I wasn't happy with the thread depth so I extended it back to another spot on the block. I'll get some pictures.

    The passenger side needs some extra work, a tab needs to be welded onto the mount to extend out to another hole in the block. The other bolt holes need to be enlarged to the correct size. I haven't done this yet as I need to buy a tap.

    Drivers side cam cover needs a small bit cut away.

    Same area, head needs a few mil taken off to make the engine hanger fit.

    Thats all I have found soo far, I read that the cam sensor didn't fit - but mine was fine?? I haven't finished the timing side of the motor yet, waiting for a new oilpump to come in.

    So to recap - just swap all the bits from the 3.5 to the 3.8, even sump, oil pump housing, rocker covers etc etc. everything.

    Cost me $550 for the 3.8 with 90,000km on the clock. $1200 in maintenance parts. So $1750 all up with everything replaced, ready for another 100,000Kms.

    I started on Friday - did 6 hours - motor out of pajero
    Saturday + sunday total about 10 hours of moving / replacing things on motors. Supprising how long it takes to cleanup parts. two engine stands would be great - but I only have one.

    Hope this helps anyone out - it was hard to find good info on the conversion

    Glen
    Last edited by jazz9; 11-08-14, 12:42 AM.

  • #2
    cheers for that- there is a mob over there in W.A that do these swaps but the price was prohibitive for me ($9500 but I think that was a whole new engine) - nice to know all of this - any chance of some pics?
    Original blue '96 NJ Escape named 'Alf', 40-chan. UHF, 6000lb winch, 5' roof rack, dual rear recovery hooks, home-made 'air up' system, rack-mounted maxtrax, 2 x rear cameras - not allowed to do anything more

    Towing - original GIC semi-offroad camper or original 5.25m stacer searay with original 1984 115hp yammy outboard

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    • #3
      Yeah - that would be RPW, they are useless.

      I'll take a few pics on the weekend when I get back to it

      Glen

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jazz9 View Post
        Yeah - that would be RPW, they are useless.
        Original blue '96 NJ Escape named 'Alf', 40-chan. UHF, 6000lb winch, 5' roof rack, dual rear recovery hooks, home-made 'air up' system, rack-mounted maxtrax, 2 x rear cameras - not allowed to do anything more

        Towing - original GIC semi-offroad camper or original 5.25m stacer searay with original 1984 115hp yammy outboard

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        • #5
          $550.00 for a engine is a lot cheaper than I've seen around, a lot of fun with the 3.5 I can imagine even more fun with a 3.8.

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          • #6
            Sounds like an easy swap, is your Paj an manual or auto?

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            • #7
              The Paj is auto.

              Just put the motor back in today. Found a few more bits that needed changing.

              Drivers side cam cover needs a small bit cut away.

              Same area, head needs a few mil taken off to make the engine hanger fit.

              I reckon it takes about 3-5 hours longer then just replacing the 3.5 with another 3.5.

              I need to do a few more bits before its going again - getting close now!

              Glen

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              • #8
                Originally posted by slydar View Post
                Yeah, normally I wouldn't say bad things about workshops - they all make mistakes. The problem with RPW is the amount of people that have been ripped off with bad workmanship.... Many cars are in there workshop for over 2 years to get engines rebuilt!

                Glen

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jazz9 View Post
                  The problem with RPW is many cars are in there workshop for over 2 years to get engines rebuilt!

                  Glen
                  Only a joke because I have never heard of the company you are talking about but all those cars wouldn't be Toyotas and Nissans would they?
                  NT 2010 GLX Police Pack, Auto 3.2 Diesel, Smartbar, Warn XD9000 Winch and Rear Diff Lock. Cooper AT3s on Factoty Alloys, 45mm lift TJM XGS GOLD front & rear, S/D with Poly air bags Rear and HD Front , Bushskinz I/C guard, TJM T/F Case And G/Box guards, Duel Battery setup with Redarc Isolator and Redarc electric brake controller.

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                  • #10
                    So I guess the bolt pattern on the back on the crank is the same so the drive plate for the torque converter bolts up ?

                    Due to the lack of a decent 3.8 lt commodore to NL Auto kit I will be doing the 6G75 conversion soon. Some pics would be awesome

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                    • #11
                      Yes - the bolt pattern is the same. Use the same ECU, injectors .... everything bolts up except the above.

                      I have had mine running for about a week now - it goes much better. Fuel usage is better ( mainly I think due to an exhaust leak fixed and a much newer motor )

                      Only issue I had on first start is the cam sensor, I reckon the 380 cam might be 1mm longer or something. After you have put on the timing belt, turn over the motor a few times and check that the sensor wheel clears. Mine just made a tapping noise on first start, I pulled the timing cover on that side and took 1mm off the bottom of the sensor and all is good now. I used a feeler gauge to measure the clearance on the sensor.

                      Took it out on a 4wd trip on Sunday, 10 hours in the bush - no issues with the motor. I did break the rear exhaust hanger, bent the transfer case bash plate like a banana and peeled a tyre off a rim .... but nothing major. Engine performed great.

                      23L of fuel for:
                      50kms of 4wdin - 5 hours of car running / low range mud hills
                      40kms of city driving
                      30kms of highway

                      All up, would I do the conversion again? Hell yeah!

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                      • #12
                        Thats awesome man. Time to hunt for a low km 380 engine.

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                        • #13
                          WELL DONE MATE, was the 3.8 a mivec or non mivec?
                          NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers

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                          • #14
                            The 3.8 6G75 in the 380 were non mivec.

                            Tom
                            1998 NL GLS 3.5 Auto. Bocar alloy bar with 13000lb I-Max winch & engine watchdog.
                            1953 Morris Minor ute
                            1990 Nissan Scargo van (The SNAIL)
                            2008 Mercedes W211 e280 CDI sport
                            2003 Ford Transit

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                            • #15
                              nice work! - can you just give a brief description of what ECU and wiring you used? I imagine it would have been from the 380 ?
                              1999 NL Escape
                              33" Mudhogs, snorkel, winchbar with 12000lb winch, suspension seats, dual batteries, suspension seats, double DIN android stereo with reverse cam

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