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50mm body lift

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  • 50mm body lift

    When doing a 50mm body lift on an NH LWB, does it make any difference if the lift blocks go above or below the factory rubber spacer? Or is it removed?

    I'm thinking above, but I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.

    Thanks

    Mark
    '93 NH GLX LWB - Snorkel - Cargo Barrier - 305/70/16's - Long Range Tank - 2" Body Lift - 2" Suspension Lift - Winch - Overhead console/UHF/Lots of Switches - Dual batts - Factory Rear Locker - Front Lokka - Rear drawers - Compressor & Air Tank - Engine Swap 3.8 VP Commodore v6

  • #2
    The first thing that Came to my mind will be that you will need take them OFF Havn't done a body lift myself but would think that it will need to come off as they give you longer Bolts also with the Kit, but then this is only a guess.

    One way you can check to see is to measure how big the Lifting Block is in Height and see if it's only 50MM long or If it's Longer that 50MM to accomidate for the Standard Lift size aswell.

    When I raised my suspension, (40mm Lift) the Front brake lines not sure about the back ones were starting to get abit tight. You might want to check this out aswell when you have done your Body Lift and see if you have enough clearence.
    NJ Shortie 3ltr
    ARB Bullbar, ARB Front and Rear Air Locca, polyair bag suspension, Airtek snorkel, Dual Battery setup, Exhaust setup, Big Doof Doof Stereo

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    • #3
      Figured it out. The rubbers stay on and the blocks go above them. it became obvious once I unbolted everything and jacked it up.

      All up, quite easy to do. took about 3.5 hours by myself.

      word of advice to anyone about to do this, don't do it in a low ceiling carport/garage
      '93 NH GLX LWB - Snorkel - Cargo Barrier - 305/70/16's - Long Range Tank - 2" Body Lift - 2" Suspension Lift - Winch - Overhead console/UHF/Lots of Switches - Dual batts - Factory Rear Locker - Front Lokka - Rear drawers - Compressor & Air Tank - Engine Swap 3.8 VP Commodore v6

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      • #4
        Hi Mark,,

        Would you mind posting a before and after photo? I wouldn't mind seeing the difference, I'm considering the same with mine.
        Thanks mate
        LoRd ShAdDa -

        93 NH TD 5spd LWB
        93 NH V6 5spd SWB

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        • #5
          remember! performing a "body lift" requires an engineers certificate. Also your insurance company will increase your policy when you notify them (if you don't and you try to make a claim it will most likely be rejected). And if you don't get a recognised engineers certificate you will not be able to get a roadworthy certificate.
          body lift looks great! but make sure you do it properly
          UPGRADING FROM THE NH TO AN NP EXCEED

          anyone want an NH? - 2" suspension lift, King springs, Rancho RS 5000 Shocks, 27.5mm Rockcrawler Torsion Bars, 265/70 R 16" BF Goodridge All-Terrains, CIBIE Super Oscar 100 watt, UNIDEN UHF / scanner, Dual Battery, 140L Longrange fuel tank
          $6500

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          • #6
            I know about the engineers cert. the paj is currently off the road/unreg while i do the engine conversion. i'll get it all certified at the same time.

            i didn't take any photos befor the lift. if i find my old digi camera i'll take some after shots. all i need now is some larger wheels to fill the arches
            '93 NH GLX LWB - Snorkel - Cargo Barrier - 305/70/16's - Long Range Tank - 2" Body Lift - 2" Suspension Lift - Winch - Overhead console/UHF/Lots of Switches - Dual batts - Factory Rear Locker - Front Lokka - Rear drawers - Compressor & Air Tank - Engine Swap 3.8 VP Commodore v6

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