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96 NJ Cranks, no Start

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  • #16
    Originally posted by geopaj View Post
    This explains how to read the codes.

    https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=33491



    I would disconnect the batter for a couple of minutes (to delete any historical codes), attempt to start it once the battery is reconnected, and then see if you can extract any codes.



    Can you please also post the outcome?
    Did that and i get 2 long and 2 short flashes, so 22. Wheel Speed Sensor!!??

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

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    • #17
      Where is this main relay for the engine, i think there is no spark. It wont even start with Aerostart sprayed down the guts.

      Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

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      • #18
        Originally posted by daz33 View Post
        Where is this main relay for the engine, i think there is no spark. It wont even start with Aerostart sprayed down the guts.

        Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
        Check the crank angle sensor. That's the sensor that tells the ECU that the engine is turning, and when to fire spark. If it's not working the ECU simply doesn't see the engine turning. The ECU doesn't know that the engine is turning, so it doesn't know it has a fault - no fault code.

        Check the crank angle sensor.
        NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

        Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

        Scorpro Explorer Box

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        • #19
          22 is crank angle sensor circuit failure, which will cause spark issues. Add to that if the timing belt has slipped or the harmonic balancer has come loose - you will also get bad timing which will give you a spark but at the wrong time.

          the last option in this vein is the tone wheel for the CAS - I have heard of the roll pin breaking and allowing this to slip out of alignment causing bad spark timing as well.

          all of these can give the symptoms you have mentioned in teh OP and above
          1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
          *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
          1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back AND 8 PSI of BOOOOOST

          .... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
          .

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          • #20
            I recently had the CEL codes 22 and 23 on my 6G74.

            The CEL came on, on the way home from work. Oddly, the engine ran fine until I turned it off and then it wouldn't start after that. I suspect the sensor bolts on the cam sensor became loose enough to upset the signal the sensor was ending to the ECU. Then on the attempted restart, the real damage was done when the sensor got smacked by the toothed wheel on the camshaft pulley. The crank position sensor error was a mystery.

            I replaced the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor and all was good.

            If you don't smell petrol when attempting to start them maybe both sensors are stuffed and there is no fuel or spark being delivered.

            Getting to both sensors is easy enough. It's just time consuming the first time around.

            I highly suspect your CEL code 22 is genuine. Dive in and have a go. You'll get to the bottom of it.
            Ian B
            1998 NL SWB 6G74 Manual

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            • #21
              95% certain it is the Crank Angle Sensor at fault. Before you order a new sensor, check the connection of the sensor plugs under the intake manifold. From a very distant memory on my NL, the CAS had a green plug and the cam angle sensor had an orange plug. The failure mode is consistent with the way my NL failed. All this assumes that you have a coil pack, not a distributor. Is this correct?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by erad View Post
                95% certain it is the Crank Angle Sensor at fault. Before you order a new sensor, check the connection of the sensor plugs under the intake manifold. From a very distant memory on my NL, the CAS had a green plug and the cam angle sensor had an orange plug. The failure mode is consistent with the way my NL failed. All this assumes that you have a coil pack, not a distributor. Is this correct?
                Yep coil pack

                Cheers.

                Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

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                • #23
                  You are probably aware, but to get to the CAS sender unit, you have to strip the front of the engine down and remove the cam belt. Unless you are sure about its history, it is worthwhile to replace the belt at the same time, because it is a few hours work to do it later. Also, look at the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals. if you do all these now, you should be free from issues from the front of the engine for quite a few years.

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                  • #24
                    Thank you for all of your help folks, it is much appreciated. After a fair bit of investigation (which included eliminating the fuel pump as a problem) it seems to have been a problem with loose connections at the back of the ignition key cylinder. There is a small philips head screw that joins the wiring cluster at the end of the loom to the cylinder itself. Tightening it up (and possibly jiggling some dodgy connections) seems to have done the trick. If not, well, at least that is one more thing eliminated. As i said, it is a new car to me, so i’ll get the timing belt etc replaced in the near future, along with the CAS. Hopefully no more breaking down far from home in the future.
                    Thanks again,
                    Nick

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