Below Nav Bar Ad Module



No announcement yet.

Gen 3 Pajero Front Ball Joint 'Guide'

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Gen 3 Pajero Front Ball Joint 'Guide'

    Seeing as I couldn't really find an in depth explanation of how to do both upper and lower front ball joints, I thought I'd write up my own experiences and steps of how I did it.

    Hopefully this helps someone out in the future.

    Tools needed:
    32mm, 24mm, 22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets
    22mm, 17mm spanners
    Breaker bar
    Needle nose pliers

    1. Chock the car up on a level surface so it can't move anywhere
    2. While the car is on the ground, get the dust cap off (mine was very stubborn, get a flathead screwdriver and a hammer or mallet - try to get it out evenly - penetrating oil helps
    3. Remove the cotter pin holding in the axle nut, then crack the axle nut using a 32mm socket - you'll need a large breaker bar, or slide some steel tube over a shorter one - though keep the axle nut on so it holds things together
    4. Crack the lug nuts
    5. Jack up the vehicle and secure it on jack stands - you'll need the suspension to be at full sag - I jacked it up on the point just behind the front wheel (where the two dimples are), then supported it on two jack stands - green is where I jacked it up, red is where it was supported on jack stands
    6. Remove the wheel, make sure the vehicle is secure
    7. Remove the screw holding the brake rotor in, sometimes you need to tap the screwdriver with a hammer whilst turning - though I tend not to reinstall these as they're only intended for manufacturing
    8. Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket to the hub, you can then slide the whole bracket off the rotor - if it's gripped on too tight, just remove the lower bolt as if you were changing brake pads to release the grip
    9. Put the rotor/caliper assembly aside, either rest it on something or use bungies to not put stress on the brake line
    10. Remove the ABS sensor and brake hose bracket using a 12mm socket
    11. For the lower control arm, remove the pin from the castle nut on the bottom, then use a 24mm socket and breaker bar to crack that nut
    12. Do the same for the upper control arm, remove the pin and crack the castle nut with a 22mm spanner (most sockets won't fit between the CV)
    13. Remove the three 12mm bolts from the upper control arm - be careful when you do as the upper control arm wants to ping upwards due to pressure on the bushings
    14. Do the same for the three bolts on the lower control arm
    15. You should now be able to slide the hub out from the drive axle - sometimes you may need to adjust the steering so the tie rod gives space
    16. Lay the hub on something so it's reasonably level with the steering rack
    17. To remove both of the joints from the hub, remove the castle nut fully, and take to the ends with a good size mallet - mine only took a few swings and they popped right out - also I suggest to remove the castle nuts fully, as one that I kept on deformed over the thread and it was very stubborn to get off
    18. You now can install your new ball joints
    For torque values, follow this guide here:

    Installation is simply the reverse, however I found some tricks that may save some headaches
    1. When installing the three lower ball joint bolts, angle the hub to slot the bolts in
    2. When installing the three upper ball joint bolts, use a crowbar or something and lever it down off the coilover
    3. When putting the axle back in the hub, sometimes angling the steering wheel can help to line it up
    4. Make sure the brake line and ABS cable aren't routed through areas that they shouldn't be - eg between the control arm etc - ask me how I found out!
    5. Make sure the caliper and brake line hasn't been twisted - again, ask me how I found out
    1. I'm no engineer by any way shape or form, but I couldn't help but notice the lack of shank on the new bolts - I'm not sure this makes any structural difference at all, but I cleaned up and reused the factory ones. I also noticed that the new bolts didn't have spring washers, only gripped bolts - point being, I've got more faith in Mitsubishi engineers compared to aftermarket part engineers
    Please mention if I missed any steps.

    2004 Pajero NP GLS / 3.2 DiD Auto

    MCC Falcon Steel Bullbar / EGR Delete / EFS rear springs / Whispbar Roof Racks / Hankook Dynapro AT-M LT265/75/16 / GME TX3100

  • #2
    Great Post Haktic.
    I'm planning on doing this soon, so should make my life easier! I don't suppose you are planning on doing the rear too?? :P
    12/2000 pajero nm glx 3.5L petrol, 5 speed automatic.


    • #3
      Cheers Richyd. Yep I managed to do it all while the forum was down. So I found out some things the hard way.

      The rear ones are next to come so I’ll probably take a few photos and post a guide then!
      2004 Pajero NP GLS / 3.2 DiD Auto

      MCC Falcon Steel Bullbar / EGR Delete / EFS rear springs / Whispbar Roof Racks / Hankook Dynapro AT-M LT265/75/16 / GME TX3100


      Matched content