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After fitting Bilstein Shocks and Lovells Springs

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  • After fitting Bilstein Shocks and Lovells Springs

    Just wondering if anyone else out there has had a similar experience.

    I recently fit a set of Bilsteins Shocks and Lovells 2" (HD Front and MD Rear) Springs. I got a great 3inches of lift out of them which I figured was due stock sagging. I am running this on a 2003 3.8ltr NP Pajero (160000kms)

    What I am experiencing is the systems generally feels tight yet when I go over a pothole and manhole etc at speed it feels like something is loose as is seems to jolt. When I go over a bump at a slower speed it seems smooth. I have had a mechanic go over for me before I had the wheels aligned and the didn't find anything. I am wondering if this new harder suspension that I'm not used to is giving me this impression. It's as though when going over a bump at speed the springs are fully extending the shock (opposite to bottoming out) I.e the wheel wasn't touching the ground for a moment and allowed to shock to extend to its limit and this may be the jolt I am feeling. I may be altogether wrong but am just trying to prompt for ideas of what it might be. Another thought I had was that with the hard springs I may be now noticing any wear the bushes may have. Should I have replaced the bushes at the same time? Anyway I'm generally happy with the kit but have that uneasy feeling when I hit a pothole that something feels loose. If anyone has had a similar experience or recommendation please let me know thanks.

    Troy
    ____________________________________________
    2004 NP GLS 3.8L Auto
    2" Lift - Billsteins shocks and Lovells springs, Projecta Dual Battery System for the Waeco CF80, UHF
    ARB BullBar, PLX Kiwi2
    ____________________________________________

  • #2
    Any idea if the sounds are coming form the front or the rear?
    With 3" of lift, your front struts may be close to 'topping out' (Struts fully extending and hitting their stops) when you hit any bumps.
    With the Paj sitting on level ground, measure the distance between the center of the hub / wheel and the lip of the guard directly above. Then jack the Paj under the front crossmember until both the front wheels are in the air. Measure from wheel hub to guard lip again. The difference between these two measurements is the amount of suspension down travel you have remaining after the lift. Let us know what you find.
    The Bilstein front struts have a few different height settings for the lower spring perch. I was led to believe that for the Pajero this needs to be set on the lowest level. This is how mine are set. I have read on here of others setting theirs to the higher settings and whilst this will give extra lift, it will also decrease the amount of suspension down travel you get before the strut 'tops out' and hits its stops. Any idea which level your spring perches are set on?
    Cheers, Dan.
    2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer!

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    • #3
      Maybe

      Well i replaced mine recently and found a similar problem. Like a clunk and getting feedback through the steering wheel. Took it to suspension place. They drive it for approx 2hours and nothing. Drove out there driveway and bang happened again.

      Got home and had a good look around and found that the link pins from sway bar looked a bit ordinary( rubber boots cracked)
      Anyway replaced them and bingo. Problem solved. My advice is if you are good at measuring buy the generic ones you cut down. If not buy the genuine. Easy to fit. Also may replace the bushes for the bar. Think from memory they are 30mm D bushes.

      Hope its that easy for you too.

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      • #4
        Dan, Thanks for the advice, this is along the lines of what I was thinking. I didn't have spring compressors so had the front struts assembled for me and wasn't questioned on the different spring perches nor knew of them. I will look into this. I will also jack it up this weekend and take a measurement between the top out and let you know. My main clunk sounds is from the front as this is the one I feel through the steering wheel, but I also hear something in the back but not sure if it's the back door or the shocks. I did get Lovells (MD) for the rear as I didn't have dedicated 100+ kg of weight in the rear to go for (HD) but maybe I have a very light backend and am also 'topping out' there also. I will measure the rear this weekend and get and idea of the travel before topping out. I might also try adding some weight in the boot and taking it over some bumps to see if the clunk goes away.

        Thanks for your help, I'll keep the post updated for others that may find this useful.
        ____________________________________________
        2004 NP GLS 3.8L Auto
        2" Lift - Billsteins shocks and Lovells springs, Projecta Dual Battery System for the Waeco CF80, UHF
        ARB BullBar, PLX Kiwi2
        ____________________________________________

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by brian_99 View Post
          Well i replaced mine recently and found a similar problem. Like a clunk and getting feedback through the steering wheel. Took it to suspension place. They drive it for approx 2hours and nothing. Drove out there driveway and bang happened again.

          Got home and had a good look around and found that the link pins from sway bar looked a bit ordinary( rubber boots cracked)
          Anyway replaced them and bingo. Problem solved. My advice is if you are good at measuring buy the generic ones you cut down. If not buy the genuine. Easy to fit. Also may replace the bushes for the bar. Think from memory they are 30mm D bushes.

          Hope its that easy for you too.
          Brian, thanks for the advice. Not sure where to start on this one. I will need to take a look at these link pins to understand what you mean about buying generic and 'cutting'. I'll take a look, thanks.
          ____________________________________________
          2004 NP GLS 3.8L Auto
          2" Lift - Billsteins shocks and Lovells springs, Projecta Dual Battery System for the Waeco CF80, UHF
          ARB BullBar, PLX Kiwi2
          ____________________________________________

          Comment


          • #6
            I have had an issue with the bilstein shocks also. What I have found is that the MM rubbers were not re-installed when the billies went in. The MM rubbers have a metal insert that helps locate and stop them from moving aaround which causes noises. I am going back through the Billie distributor and getting mine re-checked again. With the MM rubbers fitted, it is certainly quieter.
            08 NS 25th Anniversary Limited Edition DID Auto, MM TBar, TJM T13 Bar, Airtec Snorkel, Redarc Dual battery, ORU 12000lb rope winch, Bushskinz Full Bash Plate set, Uniden UHF, Narva 175 spots, HD(F) & SD(R) Lovells, Bilsteins, Dynapro ATs, Diff and trans breathers, Poly Airs, Ridge Rider Awning, Eagle Camper Trailer, Engel 40 lt, Waeco CF110

            Comment


            • #7
              Link pins

              Originally posted by TroyHodges View Post
              Brian, thanks for the advice. Not sure where to start on this one. I will need to take a look at these link pins to understand what you mean about buying generic and 'cutting'. I'll take a look, thanks.
              The generic ones are basically a long threaded end that are cut to length to whatever you want. Then the other ball joint just screws on the end of it.

              Where as the genuine ones are just unbolt and replace.

              Hope this helps.

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