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  • Clunk Noise & Upper Ball Joint

    G'Day forum,

    So I've still got my suspension clunk, but a new one has appeared which is more of a 'click' when going over potholes or sharp bumps (and not much else). On inspection of the suspension, I noticed the upper ball joints were looking wet (grease) around the seals - could this be the cause of my noises? I've jacked it up to try move the wheel and there is no play. So I'm still confused

    Cheers
    2002 Pajero NM GLX 3.5L Manual

    ARB Bullbar - 2" Lifted HD Lovells/Billies - Driving Lights - Upgraded Headlights - Custom Storage/Bed System & Curtains - 75L Fridge/Freezer - Dual Batts - Remote Head UHF - Engine Temperature Gauge/Alarm - 2.5m Awning - Cooper 265/75R16 AT3's on 16x7 BLAACK sunny's - TJM Air Compressor - Kenwood Stereo & Sub - Factory Roof Racks & Tow Bar - and a VERY long wish list!

    Coming Soon (hopefully): Winch & Snorkel

  • #2
    Here's a photo - looks the same on both sides, but only the drivers side makes any noise in this area
    Attached Files
    2002 Pajero NM GLX 3.5L Manual

    ARB Bullbar - 2" Lifted HD Lovells/Billies - Driving Lights - Upgraded Headlights - Custom Storage/Bed System & Curtains - 75L Fridge/Freezer - Dual Batts - Remote Head UHF - Engine Temperature Gauge/Alarm - 2.5m Awning - Cooper 265/75R16 AT3's on 16x7 BLAACK sunny's - TJM Air Compressor - Kenwood Stereo & Sub - Factory Roof Racks & Tow Bar - and a VERY long wish list!

    Coming Soon (hopefully): Winch & Snorkel

    Comment


    • #3
      not the source of all your noise, click maybe..

      ball joints are on the way out tho...

      so once replaced you will need to get a wheel alignment done.
      My Car is up for Sale => Link to Market Place

      Has a current Vic roadworthy (valid from the 28/04/2016)

      Comment


      • #4
        I was chasing a similar noise in mine recently. After replacing top and bottom ball joints and the front anti-sway bar rubber bushes, I was able to reduce the knocking noises down considerably.
        That being said I still have a noise, this time I think its the knuckle joints on the sway bar. They don't have any play in them but they are losing grease out the seals.


        Apart from that I'm running out of ideas.

        BTW I bought my ball joints off ebay, $100'ish.

        http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281086232...84.m1439.l2649
        04 NP DiD
        Dobinsons shocks and spring - 2" lift with full bush kit, 285/75R16 KO3 BF Goodrich Muddies, IPF 900 Lights, 42" LED lightbar, Snorkel, DIY 3/4 Roof Rack, Milford Cargo Barrier, Single Mass Flywheel Clutch Conversion, using Samsung Galaxy 10 as my GPS device, OziExplorer for Android, wikicamps app to find all the good camp sites. My Travel Blog . My Photography Site . Expedition 4LowDrive

        Comment


        • #5
          have you tried spraying the inner control arm bushings with some silicon type spray ? also check the front struts. with regards to the Ball Joints, if you need to replace these you do not need to have a wheel alignment done as these guys have nothing to do with different adjustment settings like tie rod ends etc. just a FYI
          NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by dolphin View Post
            have you tried spraying the inner control arm bushings with some silicon type spray ? also check the front struts. with regards to the Ball Joints, if you need to replace these you do not need to have a wheel alignment done as these guys have nothing to do with different adjustment settings like tie rod ends etc. just a FYI
            Just any silicone lubricant spray okay? I'll spray it around these one-by-one and see if it makes a difference (but it won't eat the rubbers/plastic will it??)

            Cheers
            2002 Pajero NM GLX 3.5L Manual

            ARB Bullbar - 2" Lifted HD Lovells/Billies - Driving Lights - Upgraded Headlights - Custom Storage/Bed System & Curtains - 75L Fridge/Freezer - Dual Batts - Remote Head UHF - Engine Temperature Gauge/Alarm - 2.5m Awning - Cooper 265/75R16 AT3's on 16x7 BLAACK sunny's - TJM Air Compressor - Kenwood Stereo & Sub - Factory Roof Racks & Tow Bar - and a VERY long wish list!

            Coming Soon (hopefully): Winch & Snorkel

            Comment


            • #7
              no this is why i mentioned this spray type as opposed to something like wd-40 which is too oily and softens rubber.
              NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by dolphin View Post
                no this is why i mentioned this spray type as opposed to something like wd-40 which is too oily and softens rubber.
                So which type of silicone lubricant can I use?

                I've got '3-in-1 Professional Spray Lubricant' in the workshop, I imagine this is good? That is what I was referring to. Coincidentally its made by the wd40 company

                2002 Pajero NM GLX 3.5L Manual

                ARB Bullbar - 2" Lifted HD Lovells/Billies - Driving Lights - Upgraded Headlights - Custom Storage/Bed System & Curtains - 75L Fridge/Freezer - Dual Batts - Remote Head UHF - Engine Temperature Gauge/Alarm - 2.5m Awning - Cooper 265/75R16 AT3's on 16x7 BLAACK sunny's - TJM Air Compressor - Kenwood Stereo & Sub - Factory Roof Racks & Tow Bar - and a VERY long wish list!

                Coming Soon (hopefully): Winch & Snorkel

                Comment


                • #9
                  Anyone want to shed some light on the subject?
                  2002 Pajero NM GLX 3.5L Manual

                  ARB Bullbar - 2" Lifted HD Lovells/Billies - Driving Lights - Upgraded Headlights - Custom Storage/Bed System & Curtains - 75L Fridge/Freezer - Dual Batts - Remote Head UHF - Engine Temperature Gauge/Alarm - 2.5m Awning - Cooper 265/75R16 AT3's on 16x7 BLAACK sunny's - TJM Air Compressor - Kenwood Stereo & Sub - Factory Roof Racks & Tow Bar - and a VERY long wish list!

                  Coming Soon (hopefully): Winch & Snorkel

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    one specificly called Silicon Lubricant.
                    My Car is up for Sale => Link to Market Place

                    Has a current Vic roadworthy (valid from the 28/04/2016)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Recheck All the Bolts in the suspension, Check you don't have a Noisy Valve in one of the Shockers (you may need to remove it from the car and take off the spring to bench test ) Inspect the Top and Bottom Bearing/Rubber on the shock also.
                      NP 05 Platinum Edition, 3.2 DiD Auto, Extra H/D 50mm Kings, Garmin GPS, Waeco 40, Turbo Smart Boost Gauge, Lambwool Covers, Kumo Tyres, Rock Sliders Pending, Surrey Downs Adelaide Sth Aust.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Cheers guys, I think I'll start by replacing both the upper ball joints as the grease out the seals would suggest its them...

                        How much should this cost to get done?

                        I've been quoted 2.5 hours each side (total for both is about $600!)
                        2002 Pajero NM GLX 3.5L Manual

                        ARB Bullbar - 2" Lifted HD Lovells/Billies - Driving Lights - Upgraded Headlights - Custom Storage/Bed System & Curtains - 75L Fridge/Freezer - Dual Batts - Remote Head UHF - Engine Temperature Gauge/Alarm - 2.5m Awning - Cooper 265/75R16 AT3's on 16x7 BLAACK sunny's - TJM Air Compressor - Kenwood Stereo & Sub - Factory Roof Racks & Tow Bar - and a VERY long wish list!

                        Coming Soon (hopefully): Winch & Snorkel

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I replaced the uppers on my ns. Took me around half to three quarters of an hour each side. Easy to do. I am not a mechanic. From memory they were not expensive to buy I got mine from Repco.
                          The lowers are harder to do as the hub needs to come off. 600 sounds a bit steep for the uppers only.


                          Regards Dave
                          NS DiD VRX, ARB Steel Bar, Roo Lites, Safari Snorkel, GME UHF, 2" Lift, Poly Airs, Dual Batteries, Cooper Tyres, Ecu remap, 3inch exhaust, Imax 12000lb Winch,

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            ^^^^ Exactly what Dave said. Less than an hour per side for the upper ball joint with me doing the job on my garage floor.
                            I was desperate to get an upper ball joint one arvo and the only place that could get me one in a reasonable time was my local Pedders store. Cost was about $50 for one.
                            Cheers, Dan.
                            2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Could very well be your uppers, mine were making a similar noise then the clunk got progressively worse till I could hear it when I first touch the brakes as well. Eventually it started doing it bad and the wheel was able to move in and out slightly so I parked it up and awaiting the parts
                              97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
                              97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

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