Below Nav Bar Ad Module

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

engine temp high

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • engine temp high

    nm petrol v6 .

    the engine temp gauge is reading high sometimes. seems to happen more when towing .
    i am thinking radiator or viscous fan.

    i am thinking replace radiator is the first step? but would appreciate any advice on diagnosis as nobody wants to replace perfectly good parts. and maybe do nothing is an option.

    radiator from ebay circa 200 bucks.
    viscous fan probably more .
    circuit board in dash - dont think so as it plays up more when towing.

    woof woof

  • #2
    when you shut it down, does the fan continue to spin, or stop pretty much straight away? If it continues to spin, the viscous coupling is stuffed.
    Cheers,
    Andrew.
    Cheers,
    Andrew.



    2008 NS Diesel Auto - stock as a rock. Planning Tow bar, dual battery system, cargo barrier, bullbar, winch, lights, roof rack and suspension.
    Jayco Starcraft 17.58-3.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Herman4x4 View Post
      when you shut it down, does the fan continue to spin, or stop pretty much straight away? If it continues to spin, the viscous coupling is stuffed.
      Cheers,
      Andrew.
      Dont know if I agree with this, when the engine is at normal temp, the fan is supposed to be (partially at least) uncoupled from the engine so the engine is not fully driving and using extra power, hence there will be very little resistance from the coupling when the engine is shut down and the fan will run on. Mine runs on for about 10 seconds, yet works perfectly. You should hear the fan working first thing briefly in the morning, or when the engine temp climbs. Not hearing it is a problem.

      Puppy, open the bonnet and take the upper shroud off from around the fan so you have better access to the inner face of the radiator. Take the car for a decent drive (about 15-20 mins to be sure) so that the engine is properly up to temp and the thermostat has opened, allowing proper flow of coolant. Once you get home pop the bonnet, turn the engine off, lift the bonnet and run your hand across the inner face of the radiator. If the heat is spread evenly across the radiator, then it is fine and the fan is potentially at fault. If there is cold (cooler) patches, especially big ones, across the face of the radiator then its likely you have a blocked radiator, and it will need rodding/replacing.

      Hope this helps. Bow wow.
      Cheers, Bundy.

      Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

      Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

      Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

      Comment


      • #4
        herman - stops spinning straight away . with a cold engine. thanks.

        bundy - i geuss i can try that - a gummed up radiator might have heat differences across its face and that can be felt by and educated hand . thanks .

        Comment


        • #5
          [QUOTE=puppy;336456]herman - stops spinning straight away . with a cold engine. thanks.


          Be more specific with test.
          COLD FOR FIRST 2 MIN OF ENGINE RUNNING, STATIONARY; Fan stops immediately because oil drained into clutch area while stationary.
          AFTER 2-3 MIN ENGINE RUNNING, STATIONARY; Fan should now spin freely on engine stop.
          AFTER DRIVING 10-20 MIN & TEMP AT NORMAL OR HIGHER; Fan should not spin more than 2 revs on engine stop.

          I fixed a F250 2 weeks ago that had overheating on steep hills only.
          I did the above manufacturers spec tests & found the opposite happened. I found the bimetal strip was in backwards!!
          Reshaped & reversed strip & now toes up any hill without moving off normal.

          Comment


          • #6
            It's common for them to suffer from gelled coolant which partially blocks the radiator. Getting hot while towing is the classic sysmptom.
            To fix it you need to have the radiator rodded. Flushing won't clear it.
            Cheers, John.
            LC200 V8 goodness

            MY12 LC200 GXL 4.5Lt V8 twin turbo, GVM upgrade, ARB bar, Warn winch, Outback Acc rear bar and dual carrier, TJM sidesteps, Bushskinz, Long Ranger 180Lt tank, Black Widow drawers, cargo barrier, Polaris Awning, +++
            Ex - NM auto, 2"Kings, Bilsteins, Buckshots, Wildcat headers, 2.75" Mandrel bent exhaust, Injected LPG, Smartbar, Scraper bar, Bushskinz, Custom steps, Dual Batteries, Breathers, Black Widow drawers, Polaris Awning.

            Comment


            • #7
              Sorry, forgot to say bring it up to operating temp.
              Cheers,
              Andrew.
              Cheers,
              Andrew.



              2008 NS Diesel Auto - stock as a rock. Planning Tow bar, dual battery system, cargo barrier, bullbar, winch, lights, roof rack and suspension.
              Jayco Starcraft 17.58-3.

              Comment


              • #8
                at operating temp the fans spins on for about 2 or so seconds . i counted 2 woofs.

                mrbitchi - rodding would mean a trip to town to see the professionals , a new radiator i can fit myself. is there a way to chemically clean the radiator ?

                Comment


                • #9
                  +1 for a strip down of the radiator and clean the old gelled coolant out.
                  Mine got hot while towing up hills and quickly returned down the other side of the hill.

                  Although after having radiator cleaned it did run marginally cooler on the gauge at normal driving.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep, time to have radiator rodded as the fan is ok.
                    Cheers,
                    Andrew.



                    2008 NS Diesel Auto - stock as a rock. Planning Tow bar, dual battery system, cargo barrier, bullbar, winch, lights, roof rack and suspension.
                    Jayco Starcraft 17.58-3.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I wouldnt bother rodding it when a new one is only around $200 on evilbay. My plastics on the top tank were crazed, telling me there may not have been much life left in it anyway, and that pulling ot apart would only cause it to fail earlier.
                      Cheers, Bundy.

                      Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

                      Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

                      Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        fitted the new radiator today. koyorad from fleabay for about 270 bucks. MM wanted 700 . the fit was exact not qualified to comment on the quality.

                        ive always used MM coolant but would like to find another brand if i can. the consensus here seems to be it has to be genuine for coolant ??. anyone had longterm success in a petrol NM with another brand of coolant?

                        cheers - pup

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have Repsol in mine and all is well.
                          Cheers, Bundy.

                          Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

                          Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

                          Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by puppy View Post
                            fitted the new radiator today. koyorad from fleabay for about 270 bucks. MM wanted 700 . the fit was exact not qualified to comment on the quality.

                            ive always used MM coolant but would like to find another brand if i can. the consensus here seems to be it has to be genuine for coolant ??. anyone had longterm success in a petrol NM with another brand of coolant?

                            cheers - pup
                            The BRAND of coolant is not the main consideration. Any quality product of the correct TYPE can be used providing that the old coolant is completely flushed so it has no chance of reacting adversely with the new coolant.(This will only happen when incompatible types are mixed). Make sure the heater is set to ON during the flushing sequence....if you forget to do this the old coolant retained in the heater will mix with the new coolant and (possibly) contaminate it when you next turn on the heat. This MAY lead to gelling if you are unlucky.
                            After a THOROUGH system flush choose a quality coolant and stick to that product for all future changes and topping up.
                            I note the type and brand in the service book so that it might save any future owner (and myself if I forget) from the dreaded gelling phenomenon.....its an expense that is avoidable.
                            2005 NP Exceed 3.8

                            Comment

                            Matched content

                            Collapse
                            Working...
                            X