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  • Tailgate - doesn't seem to shut completely

    My tailgate seems to rattle or sounds like it isn't shutting completely. The whole thing seems to shake when going over any bumps in the road. Have looked at another post and tried the grease in the slide rail but to no real avail.
    Any one have a similar issue? Could the hinges or catch or something not be working as they should?
    Cheers
    Peter
    03 NP GLS DID
    2 inch lift, Rhino Bars, Bull Bar, Tow Bar, Hella Driving ligths, Maxxis AT-771s tyres, Cargo Barrier, Dual Battery, DIY shelving

  • #2
    Peter,

    The striker needs to be adjusted. Have a look here for instructions on how to adjust (post 6)

    http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=35040
    Cheers, Bundy.

    Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

    Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

    Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

    Comment


    • #3
      Hmmm, I had the same problem but the door had been rattling for years. We live on a dirt road and I had always thought it was the big plastic spare wheel cover that the panel beater had kindly installed after we were gently read ended once. There was evidence that the wheel cover was sometimes rubbing on the rear step, hence what I thought was the noise.

      The car eventually had a few electrical gremlins. The rear interior light stopped working and more recently the other interior lights would come on by themselves when the vehicle was parked. Then finally the central locking packed it in.

      All the electrical problems , other than the rear interior light, were caused by the loose tailgate as it was not pushing on the rear door switch enough. Furthermore the movement appears to have caused excessive wear to the paint, where it meets the weather strip at the top of the door opening.

      The rear interior light was just dirty contacts but added a curveball to the mystery.

      Moral to the story is... adjust that striker plate.
      Cheers Joe

      2004 NP GLX DID Auto

      Comment


      • #4
        I had the same problem when I bought mine, the Handle and Door Stop Mech were the reason. Stripped the door and clean and regreased the Mech and Handle. Regreased the Stop Mech, All Good Now.
        NP 05 Platinum Edition, 3.2 DiD Auto, Extra H/D 50mm Kings, Garmin GPS, Waeco 40, Turbo Smart Boost Gauge, Lambwool Covers, Kumo Tyres, Rock Sliders Pending, Surrey Downs Adelaide Sth Aust.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Bundyk View Post
          Peter,

          The striker needs to be adjusted. Have a look here for instructions on how to adjust (post 6)

          http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=35040
          Thanks, for the advice. I will give it a go and see if it fixes the constant rattle.
          Last edited by Peter; 09-12-13, 05:24 PM.
          03 NP GLS DID
          2 inch lift, Rhino Bars, Bull Bar, Tow Bar, Hella Driving ligths, Maxxis AT-771s tyres, Cargo Barrier, Dual Battery, DIY shelving

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by joe2006 View Post
            Hmmm, I had the same problem but the door had been rattling for years. We live on a dirt road and I had always thought it was the big plastic spare wheel cover that the panel beater had kindly installed after we were gently read ended once. There was evidence that the wheel cover was sometimes rubbing on the rear step, hence what I thought was the noise.

            The car eventually had a few electrical gremlins. The rear interior light stopped working and more recently the other interior lights would come on by themselves when the vehicle was parked. Then finally the central locking packed it in.

            All the electrical problems , other than the rear interior light, were caused by the loose tailgate as it was not pushing on the rear door switch enough. Furthermore the movement appears to have caused excessive wear to the paint, where it meets the weather strip at the top of the door opening.

            The rear interior light was just dirty contacts but added a curveball to the mystery.

            Moral to the story is... adjust that striker plate.
            It is exactly my problem. My boot sensor keeps blinking red on the dashboard for the past 2 weeks. I don't know why. I had to move the 'V shape' metal piece (at the bottom) so the rubber part on the tail gate can properly fit in. Now I think it's close better but it the tail gate light still blinks :-/ I've never heard any rattles noise though... The door operates normally as well. Before I adjusted the 'V shape' thing I had to push the tail gate from time to time to be able to lock the car

            I am not sure how adjusting the striker will fix my issue. I looked at it yesterday I don't really see how this thing can be adjusted.

            I will definitely have another look. Any other advices are welcome
            NP MY05 DiD

            Comment


            • #7
              It Worked

              9 Dec - it worked! You are worth your weight in gold, Bundyk! This constant rattle has almost driven me to sell the car! Such a simple fix. CIf I could I would buy you a beer or 2! Cheers!!!
              03 NP GLS DID
              2 inch lift, Rhino Bars, Bull Bar, Tow Bar, Hella Driving ligths, Maxxis AT-771s tyres, Cargo Barrier, Dual Battery, DIY shelving

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Peter View Post
                9 Dec - it worked! You are worth your weight in gold, Bundyk! This constant rattle has almost driven me to sell the car! Such a simple fix. CIf I could I would buy you a beer or 2! Cheers!!!
                I dont know about that, thats a HUGE amount of gold!

                Glad it worked for you Peter
                Cheers, Bundy.

                Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

                Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

                Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tomlola View Post
                  It is exactly my problem. My boot sensor keeps blinking red on the dashboard for the past 2 weeks. I don't know why. I had to move the 'V shape' metal piece (at the bottom) so the rubber part on the tail gate can properly fit in. Now I think it's close better but it the tail gate light still blinks :-/ I've never heard any rattles noise though... The door operates normally as well. Before I adjusted the 'V shape' thing I had to push the tail gate from time to time to be able to lock the car

                  I am not sure how adjusting the striker will fix my issue. I looked at it yesterday I don't really see how this thing can be adjusted.

                  I will definitely have another look. Any other advices are welcome
                  Adjusting the striker in (towards the front of the car) will pull the door closer to the body, placing more pressure on the door seals therefore stopping the rattling door. The door is a little loose on the sriker and the rattling noise is the door moving on the striker itself
                  Cheers, Bundy.

                  Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

                  Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

                  Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Bundyk,

                    I wouldn't have guessed that the striker can move when you only see 2 screws and no gap hole. You believe there is no way to move it but indeed you can!

                    Now the door is flush with the side panel. Before it went over by 2 to 3mm. The only consequence is now the handle is harder to press to open the tail gate but that's maybe how it should be...

                    I only quickly tried but I think that fixed it ! In short, everything was out of line on my tail gate: the striker and the 'v shape'. Once you know it's that, it's a 5min fix.

                    Thank you Bundyk !
                    NP MY05 DiD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tomlola View Post
                      Hey Bundyk,

                      I wouldn't have guessed that the striker can move when you only see 2 screws and no gap hole. You believe there is no way to move it but indeed you can!

                      Now the door is flush with the side panel. Before it went over by 2 to 3mm. The only consequence is now the handle is harder to press to open the tail gate but that's maybe how it should be...

                      I only quickly tried but I think that fixed it ! In short, everything was out of line on my tail gate: the striker and the 'v shape'. Once you know it's that, it's a 5min fix.

                      Thank you Bundyk !
                      Glad I could help mate. When you say the door handle is hard to press, how hard exactly? Adjustment shouldn't have made that much difference, and the striker may need fine adjustment, remember, the notches in the striker and the body are only a starting point. Open the door then slowly push it over the striker (dont 100% close it). If the door feels like its being pushed up or down then the striker needs to be adjusted slightly in the other direction. The other thing it could be is the door is compressing the seals too much, and the seals are forcing the door back out creating pressure on the striker. Adjust it out a touch and see what happens

                      Its all in the fine tuning.
                      Cheers, Bundy.

                      Currently: 2001 NM GLS MY2002 3.5 V6 Manual, Bullbar, GME TX3520, Falken Wildpeak A/T02 LT265/70/16, Pacemaker extractors, KYB Skorched 4's, Villain Lighting 22" lightbar, Bushskinz Front and sump guard, Pioneer 7" screen

                      Items to be fitted: ARB 2.5 x 2.1 awning.

                      Items to be purchased: Bushskinz- Gearbox/Transfer plates and sliders, Roof racks, Safari Snorkel, Lifted Springs, maybe more...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        It's all good now ! Sooolved ! Thank you !
                        NP MY05 DiD

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