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  • temp sensor fluctuating

    hey all, so this temp gauge problem started happening to me last weekend, and after some research i removed the cluster to have a look at that r10 resistor and re-soldier if needed.
    well it looked ok, nothing burnt, and it had 10k ohms resistance too. i decided to clean and grease the connector with electrical grease and refitted it, seemed ok on the way home, will test again over the next few days.
    went over to my mates at mm and later called the cluster repair and recalibration place we deal with and they both said they replace that little module charging $220.

    my question, apart from re-soldering that resistor, is there any other fix to this issue?
    Last edited by Shifty; 10-12-13, 09:25 AM. Reason: i ment gauge

  • #2
    You could do what many do...
    You could replace:
    The thermostat
    The sender unit
    The viscous fan hub
    The radiator
    The water pump
    Any other part remotely related to the cooling system

    and see if it's fixed then.

    But I've never heard of the sensor fluctuating, only the gauge.

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    • #3
      yea i actually ment the gauge

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      • #4
        With mine I had 10 ohms going thorugh it, it looked fine, but I touched it with the soldering iron as I had it out.
        Hasn't happened since. May be worth trying the solder fix to confirm that is not the issue.
        Cheers,
        Andrew.
        Cheers,
        Andrew.



        2008 NS Diesel Auto - stock as a rock. Planning Tow bar, dual battery system, cargo barrier, bullbar, winch, lights, roof rack and suspension.
        Jayco Starcraft 17.58-3.

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        • #5
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTqxmSLe92U this link may help some,I soldered mine (R10 resistor )and seems to have worked.The part showing how to press the module back in important

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          • #6
            well my resistor had 10k ohms of resistance going through it, the soldiering on it looked fine so i didnt bother doing anything to it, i did notice that putting it back together could of been hard, so i was extremely careful and greased up the connectors, clipped in easy, didnt have to hold onto the speedo for it to clip in, tested it yesterday and today and the problem has gone. hoping it was just a fault connection. ill keep testing it.

            thanks for everyones replies

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            • #7
              Soldering may look fine however may still be what's called a dry joint from the component leg to the board. Resoldering it would solve the problem.
              NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, roof racks otherwise stock as a rock.

              Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.
              Wanting: Rocksliders, 2" lift, snorkel or perhaps I should wait and purchase a NS swb in 12months time.

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              • #8
                Mine seemed ok to,couldnt tell it was a dry joint.Took the board to a guy that repairs cellphones.He resoldered it for peanuts.....put it all together and all good

                Theo
                2001 Exeed V6 GDI

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                • #9
                  i didnt check the resistance at the actual soldier, i checked it in the little holes on the circuit board, if you have a look at the picture (sorry its in another thread) theres a hole above the resistor next to the word r10 and another hole between bl2 and bl1, and it had 10k ohms

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                  • #10
                    Suggest you just re-solder the R10, it won't cost you anything other than 20 mins of your time and will remove the R10 from your fault diagnosis.
                    2018 NX GLS - Stock

                    2002 NM Exceed 3.5l Auto. Oricom 280 UHF, Full Boar Snorkel, Maxxis 980's. Diff breather kit *still* waiting to be fitted. Heading for the great scrap yard in the sky very soon.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Shifty View Post
                      hey all, so this temp gauge problem started happening to me last weekend, and after some research i removed the cluster to have a look at that r10 resistor and re-soldier if needed.
                      well it looked ok, nothing burnt, and it had 10k ohms resistance too. i decided to clean and grease the connector with electrical grease and refitted it, seemed ok on the way home, will test again over the next few days.
                      went over to my mates at mm and later called the cluster repair and recalibration place we deal with and they both said they replace that little module charging $220.

                      my question, apart from re-soldering that resistor, is there any other fix to this issue?
                      put it this way... that is only for you a happy.. kind of like huh gauge

                      if the sender was done for your ecu would immediately put u in limp mode.

                      the r10 is a very common problem.
                      My Car is up for Sale => Link to Market Place

                      Has a current Vic roadworthy (valid from the 28/04/2016)

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