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  • Brake Fluid

    Replacing the brake fluid - does antone know how much fluid is required?

    Is 1L enough?
    --
    Marquis
    SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

  • #2
    Most definately.....

    Comment


    • #3
      HBB or not?

      With HBB, then no!

      Comment


      • #4
        I'll get 2L then...

        I wish the manuals would say the approx amount required.
        --
        Marquis
        SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Para Ordnance View Post
          HBB or not?

          With HBB, then no!
          MY05 GLX DiD Auto - thought they were just a normal booster without the trickery??

          Comment


          • #6
            From MY05 on is the full TC/SC/ABS package
            --
            Marquis
            SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

            Comment


            • #7
              Did the brake fluid change today.

              Took 1.25L (ie 3x500ml brake fluid bottles)

              Took 15 minutes per corner + 15 minutes to syringe the old stuff out and replace - doing it myself.


              DO NOT SWITCH ON THE IGNITION SWITCH TO "ON" IF THE FLUID LEVEL IS LESS THAN HALF WAY BETWEEN "min" and "max" (ie keep the brake fluid level "max" as much as possible during bleeding)

              ABS System Steps (GUIDE ONLY - NO WARRANTY THAT IT IS CORRECT OR NOT MISTAKES CAN BE VERY COSTLY):

              1) Syringe the old stuff out down as far as possible (becareful of the light duty solids filter about 15mm from the bottom)

              2) Pour in new brake fluid to "max" level"

              3)
              Passenger Rear install self bleed kit and undo nipple.

              4)
              Pump the petal slowly a few times.
              Turn the ignition switch "on" position and wait 20 sec for the electric pump to stop.
              Turn off ignition switch.
              Check and top-up the brake fluid to "max"

              5)
              Repeat step 4 until the fluid changes colour (typically brown to green)

              6)
              Do up the nipple and remove the bleed kit.

              7) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for drivers side front brake (Ignition switch needs to be on while slowly pumping the brake petal)

              8) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for drivers side rear brake

              9) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for passenger front brake. (Ignition switch needs to be on while slowly pumping the brake petal)


              10)
              Switch on the ignition to "ON" and pump the brake petal a few times and wait for the electric motor to stop. Turn OFF ignition and top up fluid.
              Wash off the corners with water.


              NOTE:
              If changing the brake pads on an ABS system MAKE SURE YOU CLAMP THE FLEXIBLE BRAKE HOSE AT THE CALPIER AND OPEN THE BLEED BEFORE PUSHING BACK THE PISTONS.

              time.


              Others - please feel free to change the procedure etc - this is just a start.
              --
              Marquis
              SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

              Comment


              • #8
                I presume this means there are no additional bleeder screws on the ABS?
                I also presume this means you do not have to reposition ABS solenoids with a scan tool?

                Comment


                • #9
                  No other bleeds that I saw (just down at the wheels) for the NM/NP ABS braking system.

                  No requirement for the scan tool - I used the brake petal. Wish I had taken pics for others.
                  --
                  Marquis
                  SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by marquis View Post
                    Did the brake fluid change today.

                    Took 1.25L (ie 3x500ml brake fluid bottles)

                    Took 15 minutes per corner + 15 minutes to syringe the old stuff out and replace - doing it myself.


                    DO NOT SWITCH ON THE IGNITION SWITCH TO "ON" IF THE FLUID LEVEL IS LESS THAN HALF WAY BETWEEN "min" and "max" (ie keep the brake fluid level "max" as much as possible during bleeding)

                    ABS System Steps (GUIDE ONLY - NO WARRANTY THAT IT IS CORRECT OR NOT MISTAKES CAN BE VERY COSTLY):

                    1) Syringe the old stuff out down as far as possible (becareful of the light duty solids filter about 15mm from the bottom)

                    2) Pour in new brake fluid to "max" level"

                    3)
                    Passenger Rear install self bleed kit and undo nipple.

                    4)
                    Pump the petal slowly a few times.
                    Turn the ignition switch "on" position and wait 20 sec for the electric pump to stop.
                    Turn off ignition switch.
                    Check and top-up the brake fluid to "max"

                    5)
                    Repeat step 4 until the fluid changes colour (typically brown to green)

                    6)
                    Do up the nipple and remove the bleed kit.

                    7) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for drivers side front brake (Ignition switch needs to be on while slowly pumping the brake petal)

                    8) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for drivers side rear brake

                    9) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for passenger front brake. (Ignition switch needs to be on while slowly pumping the brake petal)


                    10)
                    Switch on the ignition to "ON" and pump the brake petal a few times and wait for the electric motor to stop. Turn OFF ignition and top up fluid.
                    Wash off the corners with water.


                    NOTE:
                    If changing the brake pads on an ABS system MAKE SURE YOU CLAMP THE FLEXIBLE BRAKE HOSE AT THE CALPIER AND OPEN THE BLEED BEFORE PUSHING BACK THE PISTONS.

                    time.


                    Others - please feel free to change the procedure etc - this is just a start.
                    Hi I am about to change my brake fluid in my 06 NP DiD and was wondering why you have the turning ignition on and off at step 4, also what electric pump is operating during this procedure?

                    Regards
                    Ted t
                    06 NP Exceed DiD auto, ECB, Projecta D/B in rear seat space(compressor there too), TX3440, polyairs, bash plates.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ted.t View Post
                      Hi I am about to change my brake fluid in my 06 NP DiD and was wondering why you have the turning ignition on and off at step 4, also what electric pump is operating during this procedure?

                      Regards
                      Ted t
                      Pajero's with ABS use an Hydraulic Accumulator Booster, not a vacuum system. The electric motor is the pump that pressurises the Accumulator. This is a much better system than the old vacuum system as even with the engine off you'll get about 30 applications of the brakes before they stop working.
                      Cheers, John.
                      LC200 V8 goodness

                      MY12 LC200 GXL 4.5Lt V8 twin turbo, GVM upgrade, ARB bar, Warn winch, Outback Acc rear bar and dual carrier, TJM sidesteps, Bushskinz, Long Ranger 180Lt tank, Black Widow drawers, cargo barrier, Polaris Awning, +++
                      Ex - NM auto, 2"Kings, Bilsteins, Buckshots, Wildcat headers, 2.75" Mandrel bent exhaust, Injected LPG, Smartbar, Scraper bar, Bushskinz, Custom steps, Dual Batteries, Breathers, Black Widow drawers, Polaris Awning.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        As an aside to the process, I've been trying different brake fluids to aid in the temp alarm/TC lasting longer on big climbs. Have found in my opinion that Castrol Response Super DOT 4 brake fluid seems to last longer in the heat of battle on a hill.
                        2003 NP GLS DiD Auto. 3:15 Gears, Dtronic, 70mm Bilstein/Lovells, polyairs, LongRanger Tank, compressor, ARB Bar, Winch, Lights, Snorkel, Barrier, Bladder water Tank, Custom slider/steps, 3 bash plates, Roof racks, roof box, Custom storage, 3400 GME, 265/75 STC Coopers, TBar, Jayco Eagle, Wife and 3 kids. GU 16x8 Steel rims with 285/75 BFG KM2!!!!! Brilliant tyre/rim combo.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          brakes

                          Thanks for the info

                          Regards

                          Ted T
                          06 NP Exceed DiD auto, ECB, Projecta D/B in rear seat space(compressor there too), TX3440, polyairs, bash plates.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by marquis View Post
                            Did the brake fluid change today.

                            3)
                            Passenger Rear install self bleed kit and undo nipple.

                            4)
                            Pump the petal slowly a few times.
                            Turn the ignition switch "on" position and wait 20 sec for the electric pump to stop.
                            Turn off ignition switch.
                            Check and top-up the brake fluid to "max"

                            5)
                            Repeat step 4 until the fluid changes colour (typically brown to green)

                            6)
                            Do up the nipple and remove the bleed kit.

                            7) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for drivers side front brake (Ignition switch needs to be on while slowly pumping the brake petal)

                            8) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for drivers side rear brake

                            9) Repeat steps 3 to 6 for passenger front brake. (Ignition switch needs to be on while slowly pumping the brake petal)


                            Others - please feel free to change the procedure etc - this is just a start.
                            Good guide to changing the brake fluid. I'm wondering why you do rear passenger wheel first then move to front drivers side wheel? I always thought you started at the furthest wheel from the accumulator and worked your way to the nearest? Is there a reason for the sequence you describe here as I'm about to do the brake fluid on my 2003 Shogun having just changed all rotors and pads.

                            Cheers..

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Richy that is the order specified in the MM workshop manual for RHD vehicles - why it is that way I don't know..................
                              Gaz
                              2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.

                              Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.

                              My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.

                              Comment

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