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  • Hesitation between gear changes

    Have noticed an infrequent hesitation between gear changes recently. To me, it doesn't seem to be a gearbox problem, I don't have issues with gear selection, it's more to do with throttle position at the time gear changes.

    If I accelerate then back off just before a gear change, I seem to be in some kind of no man's land with no power. It's only really brief, itll do the shift change then the power will come back on. Its usually between 2/3 then 3/4.

    Is this a ECU or TPS thing? Not sure anyone else has the same thing going on, but would like some advice if you have any.

    I do tow but fairly infrequently, the fluid has a pale brown tinge to it but it doesn't smell. I have an aftermarket temp gauge and it doesn't get hot, it's always below 50 degrees under normal driving conditions.

    Thanks in advance.
    2008 VRX 25TH anniversary with lots of extras
    GONE! 1997 NK Pajero turbo diesel GLX 31" Maxxis bighorns/2'Lift/ARB Winchbar/ warn x9000/ IPF 900 Spots/GME UHF and a Jesus bar.

  • #2
    Have you tried a "battery reset", ie, disconnect for 5 minutes?

    How many kms since the fluid was changed & which brand/type of fluid was used?
    Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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    • #3
      Pale brown tinge isnt right, should be nice cherry red. Maybe worth a fluid flush and change with correct fluid. On my 2008 I have used genuine Mitsubishi auto oil as I found it same price as aftermarket. Worth doing a full flush through in my opinon not just a drop oil from the pan and refill.

      Couple of posts with the procedure below, although for NM NP models, they have same auto box and configuration of pipes etc.

      https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...flush-a-how-to

      https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...n-fluid-change

      Some info re NS model.

      https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...mission-filter
      2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

      Previously
      88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
      92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
      92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
      95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
      99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit

      Comment


      • #4
        Yep that's going to be booked in this week I know it was wrong. Not sure if it's a transmission specialist job or normal mechanic can do it?

        What's involved in a flush?
        2008 VRX 25TH anniversary with lots of extras
        GONE! 1997 NK Pajero turbo diesel GLX 31" Maxxis bighorns/2'Lift/ARB Winchbar/ warn x9000/ IPF 900 Spots/GME UHF and a Jesus bar.

        Comment


        • #5
          Given you are having issues, I'd be inclined to find a good auto trans specialist. A good mechanic should be able to do it if that is your only option

          It is very important to use the correct fluid in these boxes - genuine MMAL fluid is safest, although I believe there are aftermarket fluids that meet the spec, but ensure they do.

          Ask questions re fluid type before allowing work - if they don't know or fob you off, go elsewhere.

          A simple flush won't replace all the fluid. If it is very bad, a second flush may be required.

          A "pan drop" service from a specialist would be better.
          Pajero NX MY21 GLS

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          • #6
            Flush is described in the posts I put above.
            2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

            Previously
            88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
            92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
            92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
            95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
            99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit

            Comment


            • #7
              So I did a bit of research on a full flush. Ive learned that you need to use the genuine oil, thats OK I want to do it properly.
              my question is the trans cooler lines.

              Ive seen this that explains the process of draining the cooling lines.http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...r/index_M1.htm

              My question is, is this in addition to the transmission flush, or does this all happen when you do the full fluid change?

              Fluid change procedure here http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...r/index_M1.htm

              IM kinda far away from a dedicated trans service place or dealer now, but I want to make sure the local guy has everything he needs and all the info to do the job properly.

              TIA

              2008 VRX 25TH anniversary with lots of extras
              GONE! 1997 NK Pajero turbo diesel GLX 31" Maxxis bighorns/2'Lift/ARB Winchbar/ warn x9000/ IPF 900 Spots/GME UHF and a Jesus bar.

              Comment


              • #8
                Follow the AT fluid change where you discharge from hose, drain the pain, put in drain plug, top up with new, discharge from hose, top up, discharge etc etc. This will change the nearly the whole system of old oil and replace with new, so including the lines and transmission. It takes a fair bit of oil to fully flush the old out from all the internal valving etc so that finally when you are discharging from the hose the fluid coming out is brand new cherry red oil.

                The system holds around 9.7 litres but you need around 15 litres to fully flush it out to new.
                2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

                Previously
                88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
                92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
                92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
                95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
                99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit

                Comment

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