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Traction Control - Does it cut power?

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  • Traction Control - Does it cut power?

    I own a 2008 Pajero, and i've seen some people saying that it is the stabilty control that cuts power, and that the traction control exclusively brakes the spinning wheels.

    Although that does make sense, that's not what I perceive, since even when the stabilty control is off in low range, the engine seems to be cut off, which is really underwhelming, given that momentum is often key.

    Is the perceived power loss actually the braking? If it's not, is there a way to stop exclusively the power reduction, without turning off the braking action?

    I do know I could pull off the ABS fuse, but that would stop the simulated limited slip diff, which I reckon would do more harm than good.

    My car does not have a locking rear diff.

    Thanks in advance!


  • #2
    Originally posted by Guilherme View Post
    I own a 2008 Pajero, and i've seen some people saying that it is the stabilty control that cuts power, and that the traction control exclusively brakes the spinning wheels.

    Although that does make sense, that's not what I perceive, since even when the stabilty control is off in low range, the engine seems to be cut off, which is really underwhelming, given that momentum is often key.

    Is the perceived power loss actually the braking? If it's not, is there a way to stop exclusively the power reduction, without turning off the braking action?

    I do know I could pull off the ABS fuse, but that would stop the simulated limited slip diff, which I reckon would do more harm than good.

    My car does not have a locking rear diff.

    Thanks in advance!
    I don't know your answer as i have an NX, but it doesn't sound rite to me

    Why you would be lacking acceleration? Are your wheel actually spinning or at the point of spinning or when you look for power there just isn't any??
    Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Jasonmc73 View Post

      I don't know your answer as i have an NX, but it doesn't sound rite to me

      Why you would be lacking acceleration? Are your wheel actually spinning or at the point of spinning or when you look for power there just isn't any??
      Picture this: I'm trying to go up a steep low traction hill (low range SC off), and even with the pedal to the metal in first gear the revs drop and the car starts to decelerate, eventually it comes to a complete stop as the TC tries to figure out what wheels to apply brakes to. Sometimes it does figure it out and starts moving but it generally just stays in place.

      Comment


      • #4
        From the Service Manual;

        The Active Stability and Traction Control System (ASTC) is installed.
        • The Active Stability Control System controls four wheels brake force independently and also reduces engine power to manage spin or drift-out when driving near to vehicle limits.
        • The Active Traction Control System controls four wheels brake force independently and also reduces engine power to prevent excessive wheel spin and enhance vehicle stability on slippery surfaces. It also improves driving ability on poor surfaces to apply brake force to spinning wheel. The effect is as well as differential lock.
        • When the Brake Assist (BA) function determines an emergency brake application based on the sensor information, the larger braking force is secured by assisting the driver’s braking operation force.
        • Fail-safe function ensures safety is maintained
        • Improved serviceability
        • To shorten the lines and enhance data transmission reliability, communication with other ECU is performed over a CAN (Controller Area Network)

        OJ.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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        • #5
          https://photos.app.goo.gl/npr8RY6CZECo7nF99 here's a video, I hope it helps

          I'm sorry for the bad quality, for some reason I couldn't upload the hd version to google photos

          Anyways, notice how it gets progressively slower as it goes up (that's full throttle)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by old Jack View Post
            From the Service Manual;

            The Active Stability and Traction Control System (ASTC) is installed.
            • The Active Stability Control System controls four wheels brake force independently and also reduces engine power to manage spin or drift-out when driving near to vehicle limits.
            • The Active Traction Control System controls four wheels brake force independently and also reduces engine power to prevent excessive wheel spin and enhance vehicle stability on slippery surfaces. It also improves driving ability on poor surfaces to apply brake force to spinning wheel. The effect is as well as differential lock.
            • When the Brake Assist (BA) function determines an emergency brake application based on the sensor information, the larger braking force is secured by assisting the driver’s braking operation force.
            • Fail-safe function ensures safety is maintained
            • Improved serviceability
            • To shorten the lines and enhance data transmission reliability, communication with other ECU is performed over a CAN (Controller Area Network)

            OJ.
            That's perfect, so it does reduce power. That's really annoying though, has anyone heard of a way to stop exclusively the power reduction?

            Comment


            • #7
              There is no way to prevent it cutting power as it is all controlled by the ASTC ECU. However, you can turn it off with my traction control mod loom which tricks the ASTC ECU into thinking the rear diff lock is on (the only time TC is off by default). It also allows you to turn it back on when the rear diff lock is on.

              https://www.facebook.com/groups/2155678484721760/
              Please call me Vlad.
              -----------------------
              MY15 NX GLS - SPV EGR; Donaldson filter; Front sensors; Compass; DEI506T and DEI507M; LED interior and exterior lights; Blue LED step lights; 3T tow bar; 20% front & clear tint over privacy windows; Chrome handle protectors; 3x Bushskinz guards; Nudge bar; Hella Sharptones; Dual alarm horns; STEDI lightbar; TC mod loom; Paddles; ProVent 200; Dobinsons springs and MRR shocks; Bonnet struts; OCAM awning; Rear work light; Air compressor. TBD - UHF.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by vladguan View Post
                There is no way to prevent it cutting power as it is all controlled by the ASTC ECU. However, you can turn it off with my traction control mod loom which tricks the ASTC ECU into thinking the rear diff lock is on (the only time TC is off by default). It also allows you to turn it back on when the rear diff lock is on.

                https://www.facebook.com/groups/2155678484721760/
                Yeah thanks a lot, but that's just not what I want, guess i'll have to get diff locks then.

                I was just wondering though, would a standalone ECU solve this problem? Or would the TC just stop working?

                To make myself clear: by ECU I mean the Engine Control Unit
                Last edited by Guilherme; 1 week ago.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Guilherme View Post

                  Yeah thanks a lot, but that's just not what I want, guess i'll have to get diff locks then.

                  I was just wondering though, would a standalone ECU solve this problem? Or would the TC just stop working?
                  Will locking the diff fix the ECU controlling wheel spin etc?

                  Or will you just have more traction?

                  I have an NX so unsure, but i have Vlads traction control unit & i like it myself
                  Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jasonmc73 View Post

                    Will locking the diff fix the ECU controlling wheel spin etc?

                    Or will you just have more traction?

                    I have an NX so unsure, but i have Vlads traction control unit & i like it myself
                    Actually, it would not solve the problem (although I don't think the car could sense wheel spin if it was twin locked in 4LLc, but that's another story)
                    Thing is doing the mod myself seems to be fairly easy (either by just pulling out the fuse or adding a switch to a wire) and since I live in Brazil I don't think it'd be worth it to ship Vlad's TC unit overseas.

                    I do appreciate all the information though.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Guilherme View Post

                      Actually, it would not solve the problem (although I don't think the car could sense wheel spin if it was twin locked in 4LLc, but that's another story)
                      Thing is doing the mod myself seems to be fairly easy (either by just pulling out the fuse or adding a switch to a wire) and since I live in Brazil I don't think it'd be worth it to ship Vlad's TC unit overseas.

                      I do appreciate all the information though.
                      Think you'll find how to an idea on you tube, but maybe you already have?

                      Vlads traction is good in my case as i can switch on & off.

                      I can lock my rear diff & switch my traction back on, which is a good thing depending on the application. Like poor mans frt & rear diff lock

                      On sand or like i can switch it off altogether in softer going open rear diff not locked.
                      Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Putting car into high or low range locked centre diff modes should disable engine control, at least according to this.
                        2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
                        MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights.

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                        • #13
                          The ASTC ECU (active stability and traction control) controls the behaviour and it sends a signal to the engine ECU to cut power. It has four wires connected to the engine ECU. I guess you could permanently cut those wires but the Engine ECU may go into limp mode.

                          As for shipping my loom overseas. I have sent it to US, NZ, Middle East, Israel, Norway, Sweden and Italy. Postage costs from $35 to $45 depending on location. Postage cost can be shared with two units (Australia post has same cost under 500g so two looms ships for the same cost). Are you on the Full Pajero Experience FB group?
                          Please call me Vlad.
                          -----------------------
                          MY15 NX GLS - SPV EGR; Donaldson filter; Front sensors; Compass; DEI506T and DEI507M; LED interior and exterior lights; Blue LED step lights; 3T tow bar; 20% front & clear tint over privacy windows; Chrome handle protectors; 3x Bushskinz guards; Nudge bar; Hella Sharptones; Dual alarm horns; STEDI lightbar; TC mod loom; Paddles; ProVent 200; Dobinsons springs and MRR shocks; Bonnet struts; OCAM awning; Rear work light; Air compressor. TBD - UHF.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Keithyv View Post
                            Putting car into high or low range locked centre diff modes should disable engine control, at least according to this.
                            This is a good chart, it explains it well. If your centre diff is locked, it won't limit engine power.
                            2007 NS Pajero GLS Diesel. Factory rear diff lock. Custom rear bumper. Custom side steps. Boos front three 3mm bash plates. Cooper Evolution MT tyres. Couple of CB radios. UltraGauge. Provent 200. Traction control diff lock mod. ARB Comercial bull bar with custom brush bars and Domin8r X 12,000lb winch. Dobinsons and Kings raised springs and shocks. TJM snorkel

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jasonmc73 View Post

                              Will locking the diff fix the ECU controlling wheel spin etc?

                              Or will you just have more traction?

                              I have an NX so unsure, but i have Vlads traction control unit & i like it myself
                              I have a factory rear locker and traction control re-enable mod. I notice that with the rear diff locked and the traction control enabled, it still tries to brake the rear wheels (assuming the flashing wheel light means it is being braked. I have noticed both rear wheels flashing together, and single rear wheels flashing in this state going up slippery tracks.
                              I can understand why it might try to brake both rear wheels if one front wheel isn't turning, but I haven't got my head around why it brakes a single rear wheel when the rear locker is on.
                              2007 NS Pajero GLS Diesel. Factory rear diff lock. Custom rear bumper. Custom side steps. Boos front three 3mm bash plates. Cooper Evolution MT tyres. Couple of CB radios. UltraGauge. Provent 200. Traction control diff lock mod. ARB Comercial bull bar with custom brush bars and Domin8r X 12,000lb winch. Dobinsons and Kings raised springs and shocks. TJM snorkel

                              Comment

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